Andreina Cordani has a suggestion for next Christmas…

Many cities around the world have copied the Christmas market idea, but their true home is in Germany and Austria, and it’s there that you can find the widest choice, and the best atmosphere. In Vienna the whole city turns out in the afternoons and evenings to hang out at the local Christkindlmarkt. There’s a cheerful, relaxed atmosphere, and you’ll end up chatting to all sorts of people.

The city is sheltered by the nearby alps, so if you visit in winter it’s cold enough to feel Christmassy but not so freezing that you can’t spend hours outside, hunting down presents and decorations, or warming yourself with food and drink.

In fact you can’t really avoid the Christmas markets. There’s a big, tacky touristy one at Rathausplatz with a little train ride for the kiddies, another near the cathedral which has pony rides and arty gifts, one outside the Natural History Museum* with a wide range of gifts, another near the University which, unsurprisingly, is more focused on drinking. Or try the one in Spittelburg, which is probably the most authentic experience you can have.

These are my Christkindlmarkt best buys…

Decorations – there’s tons of shiny stuff to dazzle you, but look out for carved tree decorations, simple glass or crystal baubles, and little wooden toys that look like they’ve come straight out of Santa’s workshop.

Random presents – I bought a long twisty candle made with beeswax and honey, which the saleswoman said was a traditional Austrian gift. I’d certainly never seen anything like it before. There was also an endless array of chocolate in any flavour from strawberry to chilli.

Gluhwein – A few Euros will buy you a mug of hot spiced red wine (or equally delicious hot punch) and if that doesn’t warm you up, then nothing will. Keep the mug to take home as a souvenir, or return it to the bar and get your €1 deposit back.

Delicious Stodge – You won’t be finding any salads at the Christkindlmarkt, and pretty much everything on sale involves dumplings and pork in some way. A particular favourite was kaseknuddel, a kind of cheesy gnocchi. We also discovered a kind of bratwurst and potato mush which looks like brown sludge but is actually delicious. When I asked one of the locals how Viennese women stay so slim I was told: “they don’t eat local food.”

Christmassy food – Stollen, gingerbread, prettily shaped icing confections to hang from the tree… stock up on yuletide goodies without having to buy the fake or imported stuff at your local supermarket.

But remember, Cinderella… be done by 10.30 – all the stalls start to close then, and the Viennese make their way quietly home, or onto one of the many clubs and bars.
In fact, the only drawback of the Christkindlmarkt is that sometimes the jingly Christmassy music can be a little too much to take. If you have a low tolerance level for Mariah’s All I Want For Christmas Is You, take a really, really thick pair of earmuffs or it may ruin your Christmas spirit for good…

Andreina Cordani borrows a bike, and a speedboat – and goes oyster hunting.

© Andreina Cordani

The great thing about the little fishing town of Marseillan is that it makes you feel like you’re the only person to have discovered it. I defy you to sit in one of the harbour restaurants, watching the yachts cruise in and out while you dine on super-fresh oysters produced five minutes up the road, without feeling just a little bit special.

It’s not teeming with hotels either, but the newly-refurbished apartments of Port Rive Gauche make the perfect long weekend hideaway. They’re achingly stylish – all white washed wood floors, simple designer furnishings and endless, calming sea views from the balconies. There’s also plenty of handy amenities including a dishwasher in each apartment, and a luxurious bath or shower room containing lovely organic beauty goodies, which are also available at the mini spa at the top of the building. Heather Riddoch, the manager, is friendly, enthusiastic and bursting with ideas on how to spend your time. There are bikes to borrow, and she’s happy to help organise any local trip. She arranged for me to go out in a speedboat to explore the local oyster beds and swim in the bay.

© Andreina Cordani

Although to be honest, I spent most of my time on the balcony with a book lying open in my lap, staring at that horizon…

For more info: Suites at Port Rive Gauche start at from €130 in low season bedroom apartment www.garrigaeresorts.com

Getting there: Marseillan is 55 minutes drive from Perpignan, or an hour from Carcassone

Andreina Cordani tries seafood out of a loch and avoids the hordes.

cc. Flickr.com / mike138

About two hours’ drive away from Glasgow, is the virtually uninhabited valley of Glencoe, where mountains soar into the sky as spring water pours down their sides. Deer roam the pastures, and you can even see the occasional eagle. For a quick weekend escape, there’s nothing better, and if you want to stay longer, there’s plenty more to discover. Travel in spring or Autumn and you’re taking a risk with the weather, but you’ll be avoiding the tourist hordes – and let’s face it, when it come to Scotland, you’re always taking a risk with the weather.

This is our must-list for the Glencoe area…

Walk the Hidden Valley
In previous centuries the Hidden Valley was used as a hideout for sheep rustlers or quarrelling clansmen, but now it’s one of the most popular walks in the area. Walk, clamber and occasionally bum-slide along the two-mile path through a beautiful forest, crossing a sparkling burn which looks clear enough to drink (although don’t!) until the valley finally opens out in front of you. Leave mid-morning and you’ll get there in time for lunch in the valley, before heading back.

Visit the Clachaig Inn
Want to drink whisky, listen to live music, chat up outdoorsy Scottish men and carouse until the early hours? The Clachaig is for you. It’s the best place to party for miles around and if you’ve been to the Hidden Valley that morning you’ll see all the people you met along the way in the bar that night. The Clachaig also offers simple but very welcome accommodation including deliciously hot showers. The food is simple and hearty, perfect after a hard day’s walking and there’s even a drying room for your soaking-wet walking gear. (clachaig.com)

Sandwiches at Crafts and Things
OK, when it comes to freshly-made lunches you’re not exactly spoilt for choice. It’s Crafts & Things or… well, Crafts & Things. Luckily their rolls and cakes are excellent, they make packed lunches to go or you can eat in, surrounded by books and various crafty-crystally type gifts.

Seafood feasts
If there’s one problem with Glencoe it’s that there aren’t enough good places to eat. Local eateries vary from the tartan-tablecloth-mixed-grill variety to the beautifully decorated places which garnish everything with ‘jus’ and charge a fortune. One exception is the Lochleven Seafood Cafe, which serves deliciously fresh, simple fish dishes straight from the loch.

Land Rover safari
The National Trust at Glencoe runs ‘safaris’ around its land from April to October. Incredibly enthusiastic guides drive you around, teach you to spot wild deer on the mountainside and give you a real insight into the landscape around you.

Get paddling
See nearby Loch Linnhe from different point of view by booking a kayaking session (we went with Rockhopper) Paddling silently along the flat water, we saw a seal pop its head out of the water and follow us. A perfect moment – and it’s great for the biceps, too. www.rockhopperscotland.co.uk

Photo Attribution: http://www.flickr.com/photos/72486075@N00/ / CC BY-ND 2.0

Andreina Cordani misses George Clooney but quite likes the local silk…

cc. Flickr.com / Riccardo T.

There I was, trying to look relaxed and Italian, sipping coffee in the afternoon sunshine and reading a copy of Grazia (OK, it was British Grazia, but hey, that’s kind of Italian) when the waiters in the café all surged to the window. “Eccolo!” one of them shouted. “Ecco il Clooney!” I sat bolt upright. “There’s Clooney,” he’d said. I was in Bellagio, the small town that sits right at the apex of the Y-shaped lake, a scant 12 miles from Laglio, where the world’s most eligible bachelor owned a villa. Had he popped out for a drink in his local? Sauntering casually outside I could see a small knot of people – could he be among them? For a few moments frantic plans zipped through my head – tripping over in front of him and letting him help me up. Marching straight up to him and buying him a drink. My other half wouldn’t mind. In fact, he’d be impressed. This is George Clooney, for goodness sake… Then the crowd dispersed. The international film star, nowhere to be seen. Drat.

Still, staying in the beautiful town of Bellagio is ample compensation. It sits right at the apex of the y-shaped lake – it’s prettier and more peaceful than the main town of Como, and makes a great base to explore the area, and here’s what I did when I wasn’t stalking Hollywood A-listers.

See: The gardens of Villa Melzi are within walking distance of the town and are a great place to chill out with a book and enjoy the view. Historic Villa Serbelloni is further up the hill, and worth visiting for the amazing views.

Eat: At Trattoria San Giacomo order traditional dishes like Osso Buco, or sip wine at Cava Turacciologo. Fancy splashing out? Go to the Michelin Starred Terrazza Serbelloni at the luxurious Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, or eat more informally by the pool at their other restaurant, Mistral. Previous guests include Churchill, JFK and Al Pacino.

Explore: Catch a boat to the different towns surrounding the lake, including Varenna, where you can eat lunch by the waterside, then climb up a steep hill to the Castello di Vezio. Or visit any of the other villas in the area, like Villa Monastero at Varenna.

Shop: The famous Como silk shops can be a little expensive in Bellagio itself – the best bargains are probably available in Como, but there are some beautiful arty shops selling paintings and glass trinkets which are definitely worth a look.

Photo Attribution: http://www.flickr.com/photos/art976/ / CC BY-ND 2.0

Andreina Cordani tries Turkey when the tourists are away…

The woman on the bus looked completely miserable, despite the handsome Turkish lad who was obligingly showing her around. “It’s not sunny enough,” she complained. “There’s nothing to do, and there’s not enough shops.”

We couldn’t argue with her. The temperature in Turkey in April averages around 20 degrees, but you’re just as likely to have a day of torrential rain as you are to have a day of Mediterranean sunshine. And, while in peak season the whole Fethiye region of is teeming with shops, pubs and bars, off-season only about one in 10 of them is open. But still I’d say ignore the woman on the bus, and go.

cc. Flickr.com / Elainne Dickinson

Because in off-season Turkey, the day’s not so hot that you can’t bear to move yourself off the beach, the hills are rich and green, the locals are relaxed and friendly rather than exhausted from long shifts and the only Hammams (Turkish baths) open are the local ones the Turks use, rather than the tourist traps. I won’t lie, the sea is flipping cold but on sunny days it’s gorgeously fresh, and the beaches are clear, clean and gloriously peaceful.

We flew out to Dalaman airport for a week’s trip over the Easter period, and stayed in the tourist-residential area of Ovacik. Every day, we caught the Dolmus (a cheap, efficient private bus service used by locals and visitors alike) down to the bay of Oludeniz. On good days we lay flat-out on the beach, or tried paragliding over the bay, getting a spectacular view along the way. And on less hospitable days we holed up in one of the numerous cafes along the sea-front, scoffed baklava dripping with locally produced honey and drank Turkish apple tea.

On one less-promising day we explored Kaya Village, a medieval Christian settlement abandoned in 1923, (8YTL entrance fee) then followed the trail marked by red and yellow dashes, climbing from the steep, eerie slopes of the village, over the hilltop and down to the spectacular lagoon of Oludeniz. By the time we go there it was so hot, we gratefully plunged into the chilly water.

By the end of the week, we were converts. OK, if you’re a partying kind of holiday goddess, you might want to wait until early June when the area livens up, but before the families get here. But if you’re after a chilled out vibe and less crowds, book yourself a flight in late April, May or early Autumn, and enjoy.

Questions we asked during our week in Turkey…

Where are all the women?
Everywhere you look, there are men. Male bar staff. Male shopkeepers. Male tour guides. Even, slightly awkwardly, male masseurs. Not that the presence of too many young, attractive men is much to complain about, but although Turkey is quite Westernised, the countryside is still pretty traditional and not many women work in the tourist industry.

What’s that yellow stuff?
Oh yes – if you’re a hayfever sufferer and travelling in April, pack some antihistamines. The whole area is covered with pine trees which, in spring, leave a light yellow dusting of pollen over pretty much everything – sometimes even the sea. On the plus side, that’s where all the lovely honey comes from.

Have I suddenly become irresistibly attractive?
Yep, women travellers get a /lot/ of attention from men. Sadly, most of the guys who flirted with us turned out to be selling boat trips or trying to lure us into their bar, and we kept it friendly but detached to avoid too much hassle. Of course you could be the kind of girl who loves hassle, in which case, you’ve come to the right place.

How much lamb can a girl eat?
When it comes to off-season Turkey, veggies beware. The menu features meat, meat and more meat. There’s not even much fish, as there aren’t enough tourists to justify ordering it in. The best option for all is a pide, a pizza-like meal baked in a wood stove. They’re every bit as nice as an Italian pizza, especially on the Oludeniz waterfront and there are both meat and veggie options.

Photo Attribution: http://www.flickr.com/photos/elainnedickinson/ / CC BY 2.0

Andreina Cordani crouches down in a safari suit and peers at an iguana.

cc. Flickr.com / alh1

A gaggle of pasty-legged tourists stood on the dock, clinging protectively to their luggage and waiting impatiently for their ride to Puerto Ayora, where each of us was to join our boat and start our tour. They were tired, they were grumpy, they were not happy with South American ideas of punctuality. And then the pelican appeared – swooping overhead, it changed angle in mid-air and plunged into a spectacular dive, slicing the water effortlessly before bobbing up to the surface, its beak swollen with fish.

“Oooh,” the tourists said. Our visit to the Galapagos Islands had begun.

Because unlike pretty much anywhere else on earth, you don’t have to make any actual effort to see nature. It’s just there. Teeming, diving, swimming or just sunning itself on the beach. That Darwin, he had it easy.

Travel to the Galapagos is a big decision to make. Visitors are limited, and boats are only licensed to visit certain islands on each trip (which meant, through the luck of the draw, I never got to see any giant tortoises in the wild) But over the past few years, tourist traffic has increased to more than 180,000 a year, compared to a resident population of around 40,000. Boats bring pollution, and some boats bring more than others, so research your tour company carefully.

But if you do, like the pelican, taken the plunge, there are some incredible sights to see. Those marine iguanas David Attenborough has been banging on about for years are eerily prehistoric-looking in the flesh. And if you like cute, you’ll fill whole memory cards taking photos of baby sea lions and penguins. Pack a snorkel, hire a wetsuit in Puerto Ayora (the water is really cold) and remember to swim /away/ from the sharks (I got so carried away with my waterproof camera, I forgot).

This is not a place to come if you like luxury. Only five of the islands are inhabited and I’ve never been further from a shop in my life. But when your boat is anchored just off an uninhabited island after sundown and the captain turns off the deck lights, just look up. There’s /way/ more than five stars out there.

Nestling at the very tip of the Indian subcontinent, Kerala is a country of green and quiet backwaters, lively cities and glorious beaches, and quite different from the rest of India. Andreina Cordani reports.

Background on Kerala

utpal, creative commons flickr

The province escaped British rule and was instead dominated by the Portugese in the 16th century. There’s a higher-than-average Christian population, and a one hundred per cent literacy rate, which makes for a more cosmopolitan atmosphere, helping female travellers feel a little more relaxed.

Rice boats on the backwaters

Think back to a time when we thought Paul McCartney and Heather Mills were a romantic couple. They spent part of their honeymoon in Kerala – some of it in a private villa at the Marari Beach Resort, and part of it drifting on the Keralan backwaters on one of the hundreds of converted rice boats. There really is no better way to see the countryside than sitting on the prow of your boat, waving at the cute rows of uniformed schoolchildren and the farmers tending their cattle, looking out for the blue flash of a kingfisher diving into the water. The boats are partly made out of woven straw, and include bedrooms, a dining area and quite a large crew considering there’s only a small outboard motor. In fact, the one thing that unnerved me was the row of eager faces which greeted me every morning – they cooked some amazing dinners, though. Check your boat carefully before you start, as some are cleaner and smarter than others.

Ayurveda

You’ve come to the birthplace of Ayurveda, traditional medicine, so don’t leave without having an ayurvedic massage or treatment. Most hotels offer treatments and there are some independent outlets too – as ever, standards vary along with the price. You’ll always get a female masseuse and if you’re having a full body massage you’ll have to be comfortable getting naked. Some practitioners will hang from a rope above you and actually walk on your back. Mine left me feeling incredible, but there was an unexpected side-effect. Ayurveda involves the use of spices like cardamom and cinnamon, which meant I emerged smelling like an especially hot curry, an aroma which didn’t dissipate for several days…

Shopping and tailoring

Compared with places like Egypt and Morocco, women can shop in relative peace in Kerala, but that doesn’t mean there won’t be some pretty slick attempts to part you from your money (one salesman told me a statuette was marble when it was obviously soapstone) Feel free to bargain! One of the best souvenirs to bring home, though is a sari-fabric dress tailor made for you – simply buy a sari in town, take it to one of the local tailors and they’ll whip up a dress of your choice from the fabric. Many of them keep catalogues like Next Directory in stock, so you can point out the designs you like.

Kathakali dance

Colour, light, movement and some pretty crazy facial expressions define every performance of this 300-year-old form of dance – more formal than the Sadlers Wells ballet, with outlandish stories and costumes. Catch a performance, and if you find an English speaking dancer ask him (there are no women) to explain some of the traditions behind the art form.

Beach beauty
Most tourists head to Kovalam, which is as close to a conventional resort as you’re likely to find in India – a seafront strip full of restaurants with menus printed in English, sarong salesmen cruising the beach. But wake up at dawn, and to see the fishermen preparing their nets, and you’ll realise you’re still in an exotic country. For somewhere a bit more deserted, romantic (and, sorry, expensive) there’s a hammock with your name on it at the Marari Beach resort.