Julie Miller and her daughter try the hot spring baths – or onsen – in Ishagawa.  And yes, you do take your clothes off in Japan…

A crucial part of a visit to Japan is to partake in the tradition of the onsen, or hot spring baths. The Japanese have been ‘taking the waters’ for 1300 years, and it is part of life from the bustling metropolis of Toyko to quaint towns nestled in the forests. Even the famous snow monkeys of the Japanese Alps love to soak in hot springs, a habit they picked up after discovering how deliciously toasty human baths were.

For Western visitors, a visit to an onsen can be a daunting experience. There in not much information available on onsen etiquette – and it’s all about etiquette. In regional parts of Japan, English is not widely spoken, which leaves the non-plussed visitor fumbling around, copycatting or, sadly, copping out.

Many traditional ryokans, or inns, have their own private onsens. The Hanamura guesthouse at Yamanaka Onsen in Ishagawa province is a beautiful example, with a cavernous public bath in its bowels and a delightful open air bath on the rooftop. There are usually separate sections for men and women; deducing which is which can be a challenge for those with no Japanese. Try colour-coding – pink or red is a pretty good bet it’s the female-only room.

When you stay at a ryokan, you are presented with a cotton robe or yukata, tied with a silk sash – not randomly knotted, but neatly in a bow on the left, a faux pas a bath attendant was very quick to rectify. The robe is yours to wander the premises with, or even outside – “tourists like”, my daughter and I were informed, and despite the fact that we did feel pretty silly, it was fun clomping around like a geisha in what felt like our pyjamas, toe socks and ungainly wooden platform thongs, called geta.

Talking my 18-year-old daughter into visiting the onsen, however, was another story. The idea of nuding up horrified her – even more horrifying was the thought of seeing her old mum in the buff, lumpy bits and all. When I told her the Japanese would be offended if she wore a swimming costume, she told me that was the stupidest thing she’d ever heard.

For the Japanese, however, nudity is no big deal. And yes, stripping off is an essential part of the onsen experience. Here’s the low down:

After entering, take your clothes off in a locker room, leaving your possessions in a wicker basket. Towels are often available, but don’t take a large one into the bath with you – there are small ‘modesty’ towels for that purpose. Then it’s off to an inner sanctum, where you shower first; not to do this step (even if you’ve just washed in your room) is considered impolite. Body wash and shampoo is provided – best to be seen using it.

Most baths have an indoor pool; some choose to soak in this first, before venturing into the outdoor pool.

Once accustomed to the fact that all and sundry is naked, simply sit back and enjoy the steaming water. If there’s an option of an outdoor pool, this is unbeatable, particularly in the chill of winter when the breeze tempers the constant heat and snow falls on your head.

For the record, my daughter refused to go naked, and wore her swimming costume, one eye on the door ready to bolt if anyone came in. Fortunately, we had the place to ourselves, so no offence given.

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