Andreina Cordani tries Turkey when the tourists are away…
The woman on the bus looked completely miserable, despite the handsome Turkish lad who was obligingly showing her around. “It’s not sunny enough,” she complained. “There’s nothing to do, and there’s not enough shops.”
We couldn’t argue with her. The temperature in Turkey in April averages around 20 degrees, but you’re just as likely to have a day of torrential rain as you are to have a day of Mediterranean sunshine. And, while in peak season the whole Fethiye region of is teeming with shops, pubs and bars, off-season only about one in 10 of them is open. But still I’d say ignore the woman on the bus, and go.
cc. Flickr.com / Elainne Dickinson
Because in off-season Turkey, the day’s not so hot that you can’t bear to move yourself off the beach, the hills are rich and green, the locals are relaxed and friendly rather than exhausted from long shifts and the only Hammams (Turkish baths) open are the local ones the Turks use, rather than the tourist traps. I won’t lie, the sea is flipping cold but on sunny days it’s gorgeously fresh, and the beaches are clear, clean and gloriously peaceful.
We flew out to Dalaman airport for a week’s trip over the Easter period, and stayed in the tourist-residential area of Ovacik. Every day, we caught the Dolmus (a cheap, efficient private bus service used by locals and visitors alike) down to the bay of Oludeniz. On good days we lay flat-out on the beach, or tried paragliding over the bay, getting a spectacular view along the way. And on less hospitable days we holed up in one of the numerous cafes along the sea-front, scoffed baklava dripping with locally produced honey and drank Turkish apple tea.
On one less-promising day we explored Kaya Village, a medieval Christian settlement abandoned in 1923, (8YTL entrance fee) then followed the trail marked by red and yellow dashes, climbing from the steep, eerie slopes of the village, over the hilltop and down to the spectacular lagoon of Oludeniz. By the time we go there it was so hot, we gratefully plunged into the chilly water.
By the end of the week, we were converts. OK, if you’re a partying kind of holiday goddess, you might want to wait until early June when the area livens up, but before the families get here. But if you’re after a chilled out vibe and less crowds, book yourself a flight in late April, May or early Autumn, and enjoy.
Questions we asked during our week in Turkey…
Where are all the women?
Everywhere you look, there are men. Male bar staff. Male shopkeepers. Male tour guides. Even, slightly awkwardly, male masseurs. Not that the presence of too many young, attractive men is much to complain about, but although Turkey is quite Westernised, the countryside is still pretty traditional and not many women work in the tourist industry.
What’s that yellow stuff?
Oh yes – if you’re a hayfever sufferer and travelling in April, pack some antihistamines. The whole area is covered with pine trees which, in spring, leave a light yellow dusting of pollen over pretty much everything – sometimes even the sea. On the plus side, that’s where all the lovely honey comes from.
Have I suddenly become irresistibly attractive?
Yep, women travellers get a /lot/ of attention from men. Sadly, most of the guys who flirted with us turned out to be selling boat trips or trying to lure us into their bar, and we kept it friendly but detached to avoid too much hassle. Of course you could be the kind of girl who loves hassle, in which case, you’ve come to the right place.
How much lamb can a girl eat?
When it comes to off-season Turkey, veggies beware. The menu features meat, meat and more meat. There’s not even much fish, as there aren’t enough tourists to justify ordering it in. The best option for all is a pide, a pizza-like meal baked in a wood stove. They’re every bit as nice as an Italian pizza, especially on the Oludeniz waterfront and there are both meat and veggie options.
Photo Attribution: http://www.flickr.com/photos/elainnedickinson/ / CC BY 2.0
