Jenny Valentish has a cunning plan for first-timers to Hobart.
If you’re dipping a toe into Hobart bat-out-of-hell style, it’s a good ploy to use Elizabeth Street as your guide. While you’ll encounter the odd hoon and ratbag in the CBD section (it being one of the main streets that dissect the city), it’ll offer you a thorough shopping experience and lead you in the direction of the harbour, market and foodie district. A cab from the airport, through the mountains to Elizabeth Street, costs $40, or there’s a hotel shuttle at $15 each way; $25 return.
Where to stay:
If you’re after indulgence at a good price – and c’mon, you are – try the Quest Savoy towers above the Savoy spa (38 Elizabeth Street, 03 6220 2300). If you can’t make it down to the basement of utter relaxation (guests get a discount, so it’s only $15 entry for the sauna, steam room, pool, etc), your self-contained apartment can come with a modest spa bath of its own.
The Quality Hotel Hobart Midcity (03 6234 6333) or New Sydney Hotel (03 6234 456) are also slap-bang in the centre of everything, but really you’ll find no end of accommodation in the area to suit any salary, whether you book online or choose on arrival.
Where to drink:
The Lark Distiller’s Whisky Bar needs to be done. Not only is it a woody bar with a great view of Macquarie Wharf – often with live music at the gentle end of the scale – it’s also a tastings centre and cellar. Yep, money is going to be spent. Don’t fancy a whisky? Bloody hell, okay. There’s a hand-pulled ‘cleansing ale’, great wines, pepperberry-infused vodka and gin, you can even buy your own bottle or barrel — or, indeed, connoisseur’s case.
If you’re more in the mood for cocktails-with-a-view, check out the award-winning Tavern 42 Degrees South (T42) on Elizabeth Street Pier, stretching out into Sullivan’s Cove, the first landing site for settlers. Ah, history and Harvey Wallbangers. And possibly a dolphin or something.
Where to eat:
The Wharf area is ringed with seafood restaurants and pub grub, with your average dish costing around $27. (Yes, I know). Still, have a browse around www.salamanca.com.au to get a feel for what’s on offer – but the nautically themed Drunken Admiral (19 Hunter Street, 03 6234 1903), housed in an 1820s waterside warehouse, is perhaps the most famous place of all. It’s made up of tiny driftwood nooks and crannies, so make sure you book.
For a cheaper option, North Hobart is stuffed full of food joints of every nomination (great if you’re sick of fish, too), and it’s a mere 20-minute walk or short cab ride away from the centre of town (www.northhobart.com).
If you’re into live music you could stop at the Alley Cat on the way back (381 Elizabeth Street, 03 62312299), where tons of name bands pass through.
Where to shop:
Back on the harbour, the hefty-sized Salamanca Market is open every Saturday, stuffed with books, arts and crafts, food and sweet-smelling goodness, but sharpen your elbows, or at least don’t expect to move faster than a crawl. On the plus side, it’s lined with bars, should your spirits flag.
cc. wlcutler / Flickr.com
The malls surrounding Elizabeth Street in the CBD house all the usual suspects – excluding David Jones. Gasp!
Where to wander:
If you’re on foot, a little way off the beaten track are the Royal Botanical Gardens, with a Japanese garden, herb garden, cacti house and Sub-Antarctic display. It’s also home to Peter Cundall from Gardening Australia’s vegetable patch. Awesome.
