Julie Miller goes out in the Paris of the South and tries the sushi and the mansion-sized clubs.

“What do you think of Brazil getting the Olympics?” I ask my Argentine friend. “Bah, we hate it,” he says. “We hate Brazil. We hate Chile. We hate that their economies are going up, while ours just keeps going down, down, down. We don’t want anyone else to be successful,” he laughs.

While doing infinitely better than during the crisis of 2001 when poverty rose to over 50 percent, Argentina is still struggling to crawl its way out of economic mire. Its government is in shambles, inflation high and its national airline a loveable disgrace.

Not that any of this is evident in its streets. Yes, the footpaths are crumbling (though I found out this was because each business is responsible for its own path; hence, going from smooth to cracked within metres); but the ‘Paris of the South’ is so chic, so fashionable, so unselfconsciously fabulous, the city’s slightly worn edges just make it retro-cool, rather than dilapidated.

For visitors, a relatively weak peso also makes it an affordable city to visit, with gorgeous hotels, cool restaurants and bars all within reach. This is a city that loves to party, and with taxis so cheap, there’s no excuse not to bar hop with the portenos into the wee hours of the morning.

The evening starts late in BA – don’t even think about getting a table before 10.30pm. Steel yourself for a hearty meal – portions are man-sized, with steak featured on every menu. Wash it down with a glass of the delicious local Malbec – don’t they say red wine counters the artery-hardening effects of meat? Put it this way, they don’t seem to have an obesity problem in BA – so they are doing something right.

A stylish addition to the Recoleta social scene is Gran Bar Danzon, an industrial-designed space with polished concrete floors, subdued lighting, plush lounges, a long, sexy bar and an intimate dining space. Single diners will welcome the sushi bar seating – immediately taking away that “table for one” stigma.

The menu ranges from sushi and sashimi, to a la carte meals including risotto with duck breast, seared asparagus and wild mushrooms and the ubiquitous steak. Potent cocktails are on hand, as well as an extensive wine list; the sommelier’s suggestions are usually right on target.

The lounge area starts to fill around midnight; but we decided to move onto another bar just around the corner. So fabulous there’s no need for signage out the front, Milion is housed in a gorgeous four-storey belle époque mansion, dripping with marble, red velvet and chandeliers. There’s a bar venue on every floor, plus a lovely garden adorned with fairy lights.

And girls, as you make your way into that garden via a sweeping marble staircase, enjoy the ride; for guaranteed, every male eye will be upon you, worshipping you as only a Latino man can. For this is BA, where every woman is a goddess; work it!

WHERE:

Gran Bar Danzon
Libertad 1161, BA
www.granbardanzon.com.ar

Milion
Parana 108 y Marcelo T de Alvear
Recoleta, BA
www.milion.com