Jane de Teliga flies to Marrakech for a fashion shoot and finds pure magic in the souks and medinas.

Marrakech is just a few hours from London, but it seems a thousand years away as you step into an ancient world. Now I understand why so many writers, designers, and those searching for themselves have fallen in love with the place. Writer Paul Bowles, Yves Saint Laurent and Talitha Getty (remember the iconic 60s photograph of fabulous flower child Talitha and her husband, on a Marrakech roof terrace), have all been spellbound by the evocative beauty of Morocco. It is magic. It is like finding yourself an extra in some exotic movie set, be it Casablanca or Hideous Kinky or the Sheltering Sky.

After all the imaginings, I finally got to go there for the first time recently with a photographic crew to do a couple of fashion stories. We stayed in the magical Riad Edward, which is in the heart of the medina. Our luggage was taken from the car and dragged through the laneways on a trolley past donkey carts and smoking streetside grills. The Riad meanders over many levels, built around a breathtaking central courtyard replete with a cool swimming pool open to the sky. Wonderful old tiles line the walls, Bougainvillea climbs the sides of the building and on the roof terrace you can see over the rooftops of Marrakech.

The bedrooms are uniquely decorated, with old rugs and antique furniture, all wonderfully atmospheric and somewhat shabby. Not the perfect modern amenities of an homogenised hotel chain, it is quirky, endearingly old and utterly charming. Yes, the hot water is erratic and the facilities a little rundown but it was once the private home of the Englishman who still owns it, and there is something very personal and mysterious about the place. You are awakened very early just before dawn by the extraordinary chanting call to prayer that echoes across the city from the mosques. Apparently, some people complain about this, which makes you wonder why they bother to travel in the first place.

Here in the midst of the old medina, you can wander in a thousand tiny lanes and streets full of people wearing traditional hooded djellabas. Battered taxis drive alongside donkeys carts and you may need a guide to find your way through all the tiny alleyways of the souk, the fascinating markets that spread from the central square Jemma Al Fnaa, famed for its musicians and snake charmers, which evoke both charm and an underlying sense of menace.

The same owner has just completed a new luxury country property in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, about an hour out of Marrakech, and it is an equally magical experience. Called Kasbah Bab Ourika, it is made of rammed earth along the traditional lines of the Berber villages that surround it. In an amazing setting overlooking an unusually green valley (due to recent rains), it’s truly picturesque with the snow-capped Atlas Mountains looking like a painted backdrop in the distance.

We arrived on a fresh March day, the sky a shiny clear blue the sun dazzling and warm while in the distance the snow gleamed on the Mountain tops. Having just been built, there were some heating and plumbing problems. Yet the location evokes the garden of Eden and the food is really excellent. After dinner in the chill night air, it is a delight to find a fire crackling in your fireplace. It shimmers on in your memory beckoning you back.

Riad Edward
Derb Marestane
10 Zaouia Sidi Bel Abes, Medina, Marrakech
+212(0) 24 38 48 58
www.riyadedward.com

Kasbah Bab Ourika
Tnine Ourika, Ourika Valley, Atlas Mountains
+212 (0) 61 25 23 28
www.babourika.com

Images: Jane de Teliga

Recovering shopaholic? Tunisia could serve you well as a dry destination (though you won’t want for decent wine). The popular Andalusian-inspired pottery is cheap and charming, but nothing to write home about, most of the leatherwork resembles something out of Handicrafts of Asia circa 1973, and the traditional vintage textiles are  exquisite but near unwearable unless you’re thinking of joining a glam revival band (expensive and hard to track down to boot).

After a month of travel, I felt extremely virtuous, having bought nothing besides what the local’s beloved Monoprix, a ubiquitous French supermarche chain, offered up – jasmine soaps, strange fake saffron, tilleul teabags, alarmingly coloured toothpaste and a perfect crepe pan. With a flight home looming, I knew I had to bite the bullet and brave the souks (a prodigal mother cannot open her suitcase without gifts spilling out; then there’s my sister, a mother-in-law, the husband etc).

So I set aside an afternoon for shopping. Returning to the traders in the Tunis medina was an unexpected pleasure. Weeks before I’d stayed within the old city walls and been harassed at each pass, but now it was all ‘Madam! You’re back – no one ever comes back!’ A little mercantile banter later, and the promised discounts materialised. Fouta – striped and betassled cotton bathsheets –  tick; slippers in soft pistachio, rose and chocolate leather, tick; a few little vials of fleur d’oranger oil, tick. Still, back in my Sidi Bou Saïd hotel, I realised this bag of souk loot would hold little appeal for my daughters.

The street-side souq in Sidi Bou Saïd, a northern Tunis suburb, might appear to be less formidable than those in the tangled knot of the medina, but I soon found it wasn’t the case. Despite that fact that my stay in the village was a relatively long one and I always dressed modestly in shirts and ballerina-length full skirts or tunics and wide length pants, Sidi Bou Said’s traders never dropped the charade, cat-calling, issuing propositions and fixing outrageous prices for the drabbest of old tat. But I needed a few last little-girl friendly gifts, so I gritted my teeth and headed for a haggle.

The owl and cat figurines you see above are from the northern town of Sejnane. They are a dime a dozen, churned out by to appeal to the tourist trade, but are still made by village craftswomen by hand, dried first in the sun then fired in crude outdoor pits, a Berber practice that predates the use of a wheel or sophisticated firing techniques. Geometric patterns that have been used for millennia – chevrons, cheques, scallops and the like – are made with the black juice of the mastic tree on the characteristic ochre or tan base. The  reoccurring designs reference animist beliefs that predate those of the Phonecians, Romans or Arabs, though the creation of animal figures rather than pots or plates or some other kind of utilitarian vessel date back only a hundred years or so, when solely decorative pieces were made to please French colonial tastes (an authentic kind of inauthenticity). I was immediately drawn to the figures, for their strong, earthy duotones but also for the restrained but gestural line work that has an almost contemporary, illustrative edge, and moves seamlessly between two and three dimensions. And despite their undeniable appeal (how can one resist a coupling that conjures the sailors of the pea green boat?), they seemed rather left on the shelf, passed over in favour of baskets of stuffed camels and racks of fake football kit.

I hoped to secure a large cat for myself as well, but the doe-eyed teenager manning the stall seemed intent on exacting more than cash from me in exchange for the striking piece. Beckoning me into the gloom where the cat sat on a high shelf, he quite suddenly bit, yes bit, my arm, declaring I was as pretty as the moon, had the most beautiful eyes and hair he’d ever seen, and that if I met him later the big cat would be mine, no dinar required. I was too shocked to react, but instead thrust some dinars into his hand and fled, my two small ceramic charges safely in my hand.

My youngest daughter’s owl hit the deck pretty soon after it arrived home, breaking neatly in two at the claws. Still, you can hardly see the break and it served as a nice reminder of the temporal, unsentimental nature of pottery of this kind, made for everyday use, and easily replaced when the inevitable happens.

As for myself, I did manage to acquire a small coral charm, which I loved because it closely resembles the jewellery my Genovese in-laws wear. Bought from Ed Dar, a fascinating and friendly antique shop in the medina’s rue Sidi Ben Arous, it originates from the northern seaside resort of Tabarka, near the Algerian border, a Genovese stronghold in the 15th century, and where a fort built by the once great city state’s seafarers and merchants still watches over the town. The necklace too tells its own story of the rise and fall of empires, and of Mediterranean trade both ancient and modern.

Sue Ostler survives the madness that is Marrakech, Morocco. And would she go back? Well, maybe…

If I thought a short spell in the steamy Moroccan sun during an English winter was going to be relaxing – I was wrong! Marrakech is a complete head-trip. As for that insane market square, Djemaa el Fna – you’ve just got to see it to believe it. And while it’s true that it’s one of the most stimulating experiences on the planet, with its orgy of sights, delights and smells and experiences, you’ll also get a massive dose of `in yer face’ from the spruikers, traders, hustlers, sellers, beggers – you get the picture.

Having said that, if you go, expecting to get hounded within an inch of your life and you’re psyched for that – you’ll be just fine. Word of warning though, things do have a tendency to become quickly aggressive wherever money is involved – and it’s always involved. Especially if you’re being guilt-tripped into giving money, even more so when it’s to a young homeless mother. These are what I would classify as ‘harrowing moments’.

Just off the main square, is where you’ll find the real jewel of amongst the craziness. Put aside a few hours to lose yourself in the maze of dizzying alleyways crammed with traditional shops rammed with all sort of treats and treasures – and hello, this is where the OMG stuff is lurking. Especially if you’re looking for the most beautiful craftsmanship on the planet and divine artifacts; the goods on offer are simply irresistible.

I’d also recommend learning at least a few words of French or Arabic, the locals speak both, and a little will take you a long way. Keep in mind that most of the locals are all too aware of the power of charm. Forget the snake charmers in the market-square, it’s the traders who are the real charmers, Read up before you go. Learn a few words of the local lingo to help you through the maze. Adding a simple `shukran’ – thank-you – to your daily vocabulary will take you a long way! Because basically, unless you know what’s going on, or you put up a damn good pretence, you’ll get done over before you can say Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves!

Interestingly, I never felt worried or threatened for a moment when I was mooching around the alleyways and markets by myself. It’s the same as any big city really, if you tend to look a bit streetwise, don’t look anyone in the eye, and try not to act like a generally dippy tourist, you’ll be fine.

At the end of the day it’s nice to have a nice quiet sanctuary to go back to which is easily achieved since accommodation is available at every price and every level. Take your choice of flea run hostels which mysteriously turn into sex dens come the midnight hour, to the most dazzling luxurious riad hotels with rooftop views to make your head swim. As does the food, the exotica, the sights and sounds and the generally incredible atmosphere of Marrakech, oh and the incredible bargains. So if sightseeing, shopping and stuffing yourself silly with sumptuous food is your thing – this should be right up your alley. Would I say I loved Marrakech? No, to be perfectly honest, I wouldn’t. But I would say, if you psyche yourself up for the experience and do your homework, you could well love it.

Kris McIntyre has an alternative kind of safari for you – via stunning spas and meditation wells.

The idea of travelling to Southern Africa usually conjures up romantic notions of wildlife safaris and exotic adventure. But if you are looking for a less traditional route to explore this vast and exciting continent, we’ve discovered our own ‘Big Five*’ for the body and soul … with a distinctly African twist.

Earth Travel (South Africa)
Earth Travel offers unforgettable travel adventures around the world including bike tours through some of South Africa’s most beautiful and wild places including Kruger National Park, Cape Town and the Wild Coast. With tours ranging from 3-14 days, this is a sometimes challenging but enjoyable way to get fit, even if you’re not to begin with. The average day involves two to six hours of cycling, but there’s a back-up team if you want to hoist your bike, take it easy and enjoy the scenery. Earth Travel also offers self-drive and customised tours through Southern Africa including wildlife safaris and sporting holidays.
What to bring: Your own biking gear if you have it – otherwise you can hire everything you need from Earth Travel, a basic level of fitness and a willing, challenging spirit.
Cost: from R3000 per person for set tours. Cost includes all accommodation and meals, Earth Travel guide and backup team. Customised tours are priced on individual requirements.
Bookings: www.earthtravel.co.za or email xavier@earthtravel.co.za

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Retreat (Western Cape, South Africa)

© BushmansKloof.co.za

Recognised as one of the world’s best hotels, this is a wilderness experience offering African-style luxury with soul. The Reserve is part of a World Heritage site located in the Cederberg Mountains, 3-4 hours drive from Cape Town, dedicated to restoring indigenous wildlife and flora and protecting 130 San Bushman rock art sites. With just 16 rooms, the Lodge is private and intimate, but you also get to mingle with other guests and the very knowledgeable rangers. With gourmet cuisine, the heavenly Gingko day spa and a beautiful setting this is the perfect place to rest, heal and pamper yourself. On the daily nature drives you can expect to see Cape Mountain Zebra, Eland, Bontebok and more than 150 bird species. Relax by the pool or with a stroll through the medicinal gardens, or get physical with a host of outdoor activities including hiking, rock-climbing, mountain biking, archery, fly-fishing and canoeing.
What to bring: A sense of adventure, a good pair of walking shoes and someone who deserves to be seduced by the surroundings.
Cost: From R1750 per person (twin share) for a standard room (low season). Rates are per person per night including all meals, guided tours and activities (excluding spa treatments).
Bookings: Phone +27(21)685 2598 or www.bushmanskloof.co.za

Buddhist Retreat Centre (Ixopo, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa)
The Buddhist Retreat Centre (BRC) offers a beautiful place to learn about Buddhist philosophy, psychology, meditation, arts and culture. Set amongst tranquil Zen gardens and indigenous bush, the BRC overlooks one of the great valleys of the Umkomaas river system just 90-minutes drive from Durban. The 125-hectare estate has also received National Heritage status by former President Nelson Mandela in recognition of its work in protecting the flora and fauna of the area. The BRC runs a full program of educational retreats ranging from Buddhist meditation practices to yoga, Tai Chi and Chi Kung, to drumming workshops, painting workshops, couples and family retreats. You can join a hosted retreat or simply stay and enjoy a self-guided retreat with access to BRC staff for advise on Buddhist teachings and meditation. Make sure you buy a copy of their ’Quiet Food’ cookbook which holds the secret to the infamous BRC fare.
What to bring: The BRC recommends bringing casual comfortable clothes, a warm waterproof jacket, torch, walking shoes and umbrella.
Cost: From R280-R720 per person, per day depending on what style of accommodation you choose. Costs include accommodation and meals. Buddhist tradition does not charge for teachings so it is also good karma to donate a voluntary ‘dana’ to the teachers or the Centre.
Bookings: Phone +27 (39) 8341 863 or www.brcixopo.co.za

Temenos Country Retreat (McGregor, Western Cape, South Africa)
Just over two hours drive from Cape Town, Temenos is a great spot for a romantic escape, time out or a spiritual holiday. The Retreat has 13 fully equipped self-contained cottages set within beautiful gardens and contemplative spaces. The vibe is Zen meets rustic Byzantine. Facilities include a meditation well, library, chapel, lap swimming pool, Tebaldi’s restaurant and massage treatment rooms. Outside the front gate lies the quaint village of McGregor where you find art classes, health shops, cafes and local craft galleries. There is a full calendar of events throughout the year including Wellness Weeks and silent retreats.
What to bring: If you don’t want to leave your cottage then bring everything from tea bags to tofu – otherwise, there’s Café Temenos, and the town of McGregor has some good eating spots.
Costs: From R460 per person per night (accommodation only). Three-day Wellness Retreats start at R2700 per person including accommodation, meals, morning walks, yoga sessions, two body therapies and daily meditation.
Bookings: Phone + 27 (23) 6251 871 or www.temenos.org.za

Yoga Safari (Botswana, Southern Africa)
Spiritual meets safari. Yoga Safari offers unique week-long retreats combining daily yoga and meditation with an African wildlife adventure including the chance to see the ‘big five*’. With the reassurance of an experienced guide, the safari takes you through the Central Kalahari to the Moremi Game Reserve where you’ll stay in a traditional bush-safari camp with walk-in canvas dome tents, camp beds complete with mattresses, sheets, duvet, pillow and towels, warm showers and a fire to sit around and enjoy ‘sundowners’ (pre-dinner drinks). Safari locations change throughout the year according to the season and movement of the game. You don’t have to be an experienced yogi to come along, but a basic level of fitness is recommended.
What to bring: There’s a full packing list on the Yoga Safari website.
Cost: The 8-day/ 7-night retreats are US$3499 per person sharing including all meals, yoga and game drives.
Bookings: For upcoming dates and bookings phone +267 7140 0108 or visit www.yogasafari.com

FAST FACTS & TIPS:
• * The ‘Big Five’ is a term coined by big-game hunters and refers to the five most difficult animals in Africa to hunt on foot. The term is still used on wildlife safaris referring to the lion, elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros and leopard.
• The official tourist website for South Africa is http://www.southafrica.net/
• For cheap airfares, hotel bookings and car hire in Africa visit www.kulula.com

Sue Ostler misses the Marrakech express while traveling in Morocco.

The idea of a trip to Morocco to escape the harsh British winter might sound dreamy in theory; but unless you’re psyched up for the assault on the senses, get ready for an emotional roller coaster ride.

Unlike many who visit Morocco and head straight for the shining jewel that is Marrakech, my traveling buddy and I decided to be different. Price had a lot to do with our decision. The city of Fez offers 5-star accommodation at ridiculously cheap prices. The fact that it’s the spiritual and cultural capital (and used by U2 used for the filming of the video Mysterious Ways) made it seem a perfect place to start our holiday.

Arriving at 3.30pm on a Friday afternoon was one hell of a shock. Dust-filled air stung our eyes; the inescapable fumes of the busy roads and highways blocked our nostrils; the smell of donkey doo dahs and the stench of the near-by tanneries permeated the air. The reality of the sights, sounds and smells of the ancient Medina were truly overwhelming.

© Sue Ostler

As for getting a late lunch – forget it. Along the main drag all the restaurants were closed for siesta. We found a “tourist” restaurant open – its outdoor dining area charmingly positioned out towards the main road. Other than that, choices were slim. Welcome to a world where there are virtually no women: not out drinking tea, not in the shops, not in the streets, just nowhere. It’s odd.

Once you get over the shock of it all and take in your surroundings – it starts to hit you. Fez is the home of the oldest largest medieval city in the world; almost unchanged through the modern ages and still most definitely alive with its olde worlde ways. 

© Sue Ostler

Plunging headfirst into this sensory overload is rewarded with an unforgettable experience as you travel back in time about 1,000 years.  You will find romance on your trip to Fez – once you get over your initial impressions – especially if you’ve ever been intrigued with the romantic notion of Aladdin, Ali Baba and the Arabian Nights.

The biggest shock is that the modern world has barely intruded into the complicated labyrinthine maze that makes up the medieval medina (Old City) of this ancient city. Worn-out looking donkeys slump as they carry merchandise to and from the souks; kids play in crammed alleyways overshadowed by mosques.

This city is nowhere as touristy as Marrakech, but it’s touristy enough that the locals are desperate for your business as they jump out at you, follow you and insist they take you to see the sights.

Once we got our bearings, we met up with an official tour guide, who we had hired through the tourist office and made a plan for a day trip the next day (advice: never, ever go with someone who cannot display their official tour license).

The tour itself was incredible as only the Moroccan ancient ruins can be, but the condition of the car (seemingly falling to bits), and the driver (on a mission to get the tour over with in record time) was hair-raising to say the least.

Craving some bargain-hunting time, we booked a half day tour around the medina with our market place guide, Sada, and sought out the local handcrafts and exotic goods. Even if you prefer to explore cities independently, in a place like Fez you can forget about it. The mysterious magical medina has over 10,000 small streets and alleys; it’s maddening trying to get around without the guide. The food on offer at the various souks (bazaars) was like nothing we’d ever seen before and definitely not for the faint-hearted. Right now I’m saying a little prayer for all those chicken and pigs whose lives came to a sudden and shocking end in that place.

The visit to the medina proved both incredible and incredibly expensive with the experience being somewhat marred by the constant emotional bribery of our guide (charming but not letting up on the oft repeated mantra: “my family will eat if you buy”). The shop sellers lured with charm, and dismissed with firm politeness once a sale looked unlikely. The pressure to buy is far from subtle.

By the end of our five day stay, I was convinced that Fez is a both an unforgettable and friendly city; my friend was less won over, but we both agreed it was a fascinating place to visit.

Donna Wheeler discovers a quietly cool hotel with stunning views in Tunisia’s Sidi Bou Saïd.

The Bay of Tunis is hauntingly, heartbreakingly beautiful, a mesmerising haze reaching towards the strange striated coast of Cap Bon and brooding twin peaks of Bou Kornine. From the rooftop of Tunisia’s newest maison d’hôtel, there’s also an uninterrupted view of Carthage, its lush tumbling hills stretching back to the lake and modern city of Tunis beyond. This is a landscape of extravagant gestures and grand passions, one, you quickly realise, entirely up to inspiring mythic Dido’s tragic tale, as well as the furious spiteful destruction wrought by the Romans in 146 BC.

Dar Fatma, in the northern village-cum-suburb Sidi Bou Saïd, is an intimate five-bedroom affair, sitting beneath a still-working lighthouse, and next to a small, dusty Muslim cemetery. I woke each morning to the tack-tack-tack of a straw-hatted gravedigger (not burying the dead, just quixotically picking off the tenacious, life-asserting weeds), and the sight of a sea so brilliantly, eerily blue it blurred into the sky. The hotel is, for the most part, beyond the reach of the tour bus hoards that regularly descend upon the village. Shorts and singlet clad day trippers do occasionally troop past, in search of the view or up for a brief peek at a famous Sufi saint’s burial spot, but in the morning and from late afternoon you’re left with just the gentle rustle of eucalypts for company.

Architect/designer owners Patrick and Amel Marguier’s style is, in Tunisia, unique; an unfussy contemporary precision that sometimes asserts itself, but more often defers to the rambling nature and traditional scale of the old courtyard house. Rooms are all white walls and white linen, stripped back to best highlight their original, individual features – a vaulted ceiling, a tiny mosaic-clad set of stairs leading to a sleeping nook – embellished only with evocative life-size photographic scenes of the Tunis medina as it was in the early 20th-century, fittings by Philippe Stark and the odd piece of Ikea. Bathrooms of soft grey slate are scented with orange blossom and conjure up the city’s famous hammams (but without the grime and omi in her big-knickers). My room – Sara, each bears a girl’s name – had the town’s trademark blue wooden window grills, and, ah, that view.

Beyond the bedrooms, apart from the afore mentioned roof, there’s a shady little courtyard where Amel serves breakfast. It’s a lovely place to start the day, wondering whether it’s one for Punic and Roman ruins, the city’s still beguiling medina, or perhaps just a dip in the sea (found down the bottom of 365 rock-hewn steps). With endless pots of café au lait, fresh citronnade, bamboloni (the local speciality doughnut, a sweet loop of Arab and Sicilian influences), seed-flecked rolls and croissants at your disposal, there’s no hurry to decide. No hurry at all.

Dar Fatma
rue Sidi Bou Taraa, Sidi Bou Saïd, Tunis
from €120 per night
Sidi Bou Saïd is around 30 minutes from the centre of Tunis on the suburban TGM Marine train line.

Kris McIntyre explores cooking tours, chic spas and tented restaurants (with optional tattoos) in Cape Town.

Touted as one of the world’s new hip cities, Cape Town is without doubt one of the most beautiful. Despite it’s tumultuous history and South Africa’s uncertain future, Cape Town knows how to show visitors a good time. Blessed with a spectacular coastline, a Mediterranean-style climate, great restaurants and a vibrant nightlife, the city has become a favourite summer playground for European holidaymakers and the recent onset of international moviemakers. The diverse mix of race, religion and culture, combined with the laid-back nature of Capetonians, make this an exciting place to visit. Here’s a quick guide to the best it has to offer …

Where to Stay

Luxury-seekers should try The 12 Apostles, Victoria Road, Camps www.12apostleshotel.com which offers a stunning location away from the hustle and bustle of town. Rooms from approximately R3120-R4059. Closer to town, the Cape Grace Hotel, West Quay Road, V&A www.capegrace.com offers 5-star luxury with views of the harbour, marina and Table Mountain and a great day spa. Approximately R2952-3652. Marina Residential, V&A www.mountainmarina.co.za offers luxury apartments within walking distance of the V&A Waterfront and CBD from around R1980-R3520. In Constancia Winelands, Cellars-Hohenort, 93 Brommersvlei Road, Constantia (www.cellars-hohenort.com) is a luxury manor with stunning mountain views adjacent to Kirstenbosch gardens. Rooms from R1800.

If you’re on a budget … Try Ashanti Lodge, 11 Hof Street, Gardens www.ashanti.co.za which offers backpacker and guesthouse accommodation in a gorgeous Afro-Victorian mansion close to Tamboerskloof’s trendy Kloof Street. Single rooms from around R220.

Cape Town in Close-Up

An adventure to the top of Cape Town’s famous landmark, Table Mountain, offers stunning views of the city and surrounding Peninsula. Catch the cable car or if you have the time and the energy take one of the many walking trails up the mountain. For those interested in learning about the Mountain’s sacred sites and spiritual significance visit http://www.sunpath.co.za.

Kirstenbosch Botanic Gardens (telephone 762 0687) is one of the great garden wonders of the world with 528 hectares of beautiful gardens, indigenous plants and a traditional medicine garden set against the backdrop of Table Mountain. If you visit during summer, get along to the outdoor music concert series.

Andulela Tours at www.andulela.com offers great cultural tours including the Cape Malay Cooking Tour (held every Saturday 10am-2pm) – a fun way to explore the colourful houses and cobbled streets of the Bo-Kaap region whilst learning about the history, food and religion of Cape Malay culture. The Khayleitsha Township Tour is a safe way to explore Cape Town’s informal settlements and see the impact of life before and after apartheid, visits to community projects, the chance meet the locals and buy traditional art and craft.

In Stellenbosch winelands, Spier www.spier.co.za offers a blend of South Africa’s raw cultural diversity mixed with European-style sophistication. The Estate includes Moyo restaurant, a boutique hotel, wine centre, equestrian centre, 18-hole golf course, an exquisite day spa and wildlife encounters through its Cheetah and Eagle Outreach programs.

Drive to Cape Point along the Atlantic Seaboard via Hout Bay and Chapman’s Peak for breathtaking sea views. Return along the Indian Ocean route taking in Simon’s Town (famed for it’s penguin colony), Kalk Bay and Constantia vineyards to complete a circuit of the spectacular Cape Peninsula.

Eating in Cape Town

If you want something unique, consider Moyo at Spier Estate, Stellenbosch.In this spectacular outdoor restaurant, you’ll eat out under Arabian style tents or in treetop platforms whilst being entertained by face painters, henna tattoo artists and African singing and dancing. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Back in town, try the iconic Madame Zingara, 192 Loop Street, Cape Town. It specialises in Italian flavours, but it is the flair for the unusual, such as chocolate chilli beef fillet, that makes the cuisine as memorable as the Moroccan-meets-gypsy-magic atmosphere. Open for dinner, Mon-Sat.

If you want a fancy restaurant, consider Constantia Uitsig, Spaanschemat River Road, Constantia which offers an award-winning dining experience in the Constantia Wine Estate. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

Casual eating can be found at Lola’s, 228 Long Street, Cape Town which offers great vegetarian food, good coffee and intriguing people watching at the hip Tamboerskloof end of Long Street – but hold onto your handbag! Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. At Olympic Café & Deli, 134 Main Road, Kalk Bay the relaxed bohemian ambience and hearty food at this seaside café have patrons queuing on weekends. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Cape Town Coffee/Bars

Vida e Caffé www.caffe.co.za) Finding a decent coffee in Cape Town can be a challenge, but here you get consistently good coffee served with a funky vibe and a big African smile. Central locations open 7am until 5pm daily.

The Bascule Bar at the Cape Grace Hotel has outdoor tables overlooking the Waterfront Marina against the backdrop of Table Mountain. Inside, there are cosy couches, a great wine list and the largest whiskey collection in the Southern Hemisphere. Open 9am-2am, daily.

The Sundowners are great at Camps Bay. Victoria Parade is brimming with flash spots including Café Caprice, Paranga, Café del Mar and Blues, to sip on a cocktail, ogle at the beautiful people and enjoy the view.

Want some nightlife? Try Rhodes House, 60 Queen Victoria Street, Cape Town.This is a sophisticated nightspot where locals and international visitors (including movie stars) chill out to live music and hip DJs. Open Thursday and Saturday nights from 10pm.

Shopping in Cape Town

The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront has more than 400 retailers including international and local designers (try Sun Goddess and Woolworths for African flair) restaurants, cafes and bars, cinemas, art galleries. Shopping at the V&A Waterfront is a lively buzz of cosmopolitan African culture. It’s also worth visiting the tourist information centre at the Clock Tower. Open from 9am-9pm daily.

Green Market Square’s open-air stalls offer great shopping for clothing, African arts and crafts, drums and carvings. Surrounded by cafes and antique shops, this historic site also marks the abolition of slavery in 1834 and where Nelson Mandela gave his first public address after his release from prison in 1990. Flanked by trendy real estate, cafes and nightclubs, in De Waterkant you’ll discover exclusive art galleries, antiques, furniture and home wares, most with a hefty price tag. For a little more relaxed and rustic shopping scene, the quaint seaside village of Kalk Bay on the Indian Ocean seaboard is lined with cute clothing shops, collectibles and eateries including the famous Brass Bell pub and restaurant.

Traffic light shopping is part of life in Cape Town. You don’t need to get out of your car to buy, as many of the quaint beaded animals and carved wooden sculptures that make great gifts and souvenirs can be picked up from street vendors at the ‘robots’ (traffic lights) for a fraction of the cost you’d pay in a retail shop – and it’s a fun way to interact with the locals.

Fast Facts

Visit www.tourismcapetown.co.za for more information. South African Airways operates flights between Cape Town and Johannesburg International Airport every day. Public transport is limited, so it’s worth hiring a car or booking a driver through your hotel.