Immerse yourself in the skincare secrets of Eastern beauty culture. Visit luxurious spas while travelling abroad, and try some of their unique tips at home. Story – Sara Foster.

JAPAN

The spa: Sanso Murata is a highly recommended spa inn in southern Japan, an hour’s drive from Oita airport.  Stay in one of their century-old farmhouses, and enjoy the best of Japanese hospitality and your own private spa. 1264-2 Yufuincho Kawakami, Yufu, Oita Prefecture 897-5102.

The DIY treatment: Traditional Japanese beauty treatments include the use of seaweed to cleanse and tone, and white camellia nut oil to hydrate and soften the skin. Or, for an exfoliation treatment with a difference, try a Nightingale bird-dropping facial – said to be used by Victoria Beckham, with top spas charging $200 a treatment! If it’s any encouragement, the droppings are dried, UV treated and crushed into a powder before they reach your face.

CHINA

The spa: At the Chi Spa in the Shangri-La, Shanghai, you will be asked to fill out a questionnaire to determine your mood and thus your Chinese element (from metal, fire, wood, water and earth), which will determine which oils are used during your treatment. http://www.shangri-la.com/en/corporate/chi

The DIY treatment: Skin cleansing in China is all about healthy diet – no alcohol or processed foods – and using tea to cleanse and purify. Try drinking  green, white and oolong teas – all said to have weight-loss and anti-aging properties. Or make your own face mask by mixing together papaya (1 tbsp), yoghurt (1 tbsp) and natural sea salt (1 tsp).

THAILAND

The spa: The Oriental Spa is hidden away in downtown Bangkok, meaning you don’t have to travel hours to get to a resort. This turn-of-the-century house is surrounded by stunning tropical gardens, and offers an array of treatments. You’ll find it located on the Chao Praya River, near Bangkok’s famous temples. http://www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok/spa/

The DIY treatment: Make a lemongrass broth by adding the herb to hot water and using it to steam your face and open your pores. Alternatively, whip up a traditional Thai face mask by mixing the scooped-out flesh of the papaya fruit with a small amount of fresh lemon and applying to your skin for between 10 to 15 minutes. If you are brave enough, you could also try a popular turmeric concoction – mix a teaspoon of it with a tablespoon of yoghurt, and apply to your face for ten minutes. Do take care, particularly if you have pale skin – as turmeric is bright orange, you may have a tangerine hue until the residue fades!

BALI

The spa: Spa Hati is situated close to Ubud, Bali’s cultural and relaxation mecca. This spa not only offers fabulous treatments in a lush outdoor setting, but is staffed by volunteers, with the money raised going towards community projects. http://www.spahati.com/index.html

The DIY treatment: The most popular Balinese jamus (herbs taken in liquid form) promote overall well-being, and the recipes have been passed down the generations. To make your own, mix together a teaspoon each of turmeric powder, grated fresh ginger, and honey, and then stir the mixture into a cup of hot water. Ginger and turmeric are anti-inflammatory, while honey possesses antibacterial properties. What’s more, it’s said to be delicious!

THE PHILIPPINES

The spa: Sanctuario, in the heart of Malate (a district of Manila), is a truly Filipino spa experience. First, take a dip in a wooden bath tub with hot water of Pito Pito (a blend of seven leaves of seven local medicinal plants). Then receive the Bentosa (suction cups on acupressure points) to clean your system. To finish, have a Dagdagay, which is an authentic Filipino tribal foot massage using bamboo sticks. http://www.sanctuario.com.ph/

The DIY treatment: The calamansi is a local citrus said to be a great exfoliant and skin whitener. Apply a thin layer of the juice over your face and leave to dry. If you don’t have a calamansi to hand, locals also use egg white protein to help oily skin (apply a thin layer on your face with a cotton ball), avocado as a moisturiser, and honey as a moisturiser or bath body soak.

Admittedly, my love of Bali is born out of Elizabeth Gilbert’s best-selling memoir, ‘Eat, Pray, Love’. Before Elizabeth introduced me to her version of Bali, I was one of many Australians who mistook the Indonesian island on our doorstep as a stomping ground for our bogan* countrymen and women. In part, it’s true. Any Jetstar flight landing in Denpassar from Australia is likely to be three-quarters full of mullet-hairstyled, singlet-clad lads or surfers** bound for the heaving bars and crassness of Kuta. Move along from Kuta, dear goddesses, and you’ll discover the super-chilled, laid back and affordable Bali that the rest of us come for.

My first trip to Bali was as a guest of the divine Como Shambhala Estate. It still rates as one of my favourite retreats in the world, but in more recent travels I’ve fallen for the private Balinese villa experience. A well-staffed luxury villa offers most of what you get from a 5-star hotel in Bali – lazy days filled with relaxing by the pool in beautifully appointed accommodation with great food, attentive service and on-demand pampering. And with the price of villas starting at less than the cost of a luxury hotel, it’s incredibly good bang for your buck. But for the uninitiated, searching for a villa is overwhelming because there are so many options to choose from. So, what to look out for?

The online search – tips & tricks

• There are a number of good online villa directories that allow you to search by the location (see picking your destination below), number of rooms, price, type of experience (e.g. beachfront, golf villas) and the type of view (e.g. beach, ocean, rice paddy, river views). We recommend Bali-Seminyak Villas, Seminyak Villas, Bali Vilas Rentals and Bali Villas Vacation. Note: You may be overwhelmed by every starting to look the same, so you just have to be clear on the amenities you want, your budget and eventually just pick one!
• When you’ve decided on a location (e.g. Seminyak, Jimbaran Bay, Ubud), you’ll then need to decide on where you want to be within that location (beachfront, compound, near shops, near restaurants/bars, solitude in the middle of rice paddies).  Print out a map (e.g. via Google Earth or Google Maps) to pinpoint the exact streets you want to be near.  (ote: Some properties listed as Seminyak are actually in Kuta and descriptions of ‘close’ to beach actually fail to include the phrase ‘if you have a driver, and in the unlikely event that the traffic is flowing well’).  Ask for street addresses of the villas you are considering – it is time consuming but ultimately worth it to avoid disappointment.
• Once you’ve made a shortlist, jump on to Google Earth and check out how close they are to main roads, restaurants and bars, temples and farms – all of which can be noisy or smelly. Remember that Google Earth images can be a couple of years old so if the villa you’ve chosen has a vacant block next to it, just check with the booking agent that it isn’t now a construction site or pig farm. It’s also worth checking out reviews on Trip Advisor.
• Look for a villa that includes a driver and services including in-villa catering, massage and you definitely want a swimming pool. Don’t be shy to ask for items not on the menu as the chef often loves to show you what he/she can do. It’s fun to discuss menus and ingredient options and the chef will often be very happy to take you to the market with them in the morming to choose the food for that day
• Try to book directly through the villa’s individual website as you’re likely to get a better rate.

Tried and tested: Alu Bali in Seminyak, Villa Vajra near Ubud and Semara Ulawatu in Jimbaran Bay.

Picking your location

Bali offers a range of different experiences, the most popular being:

Ubud – for an inland mountain location surrounded by rice paddies, traditional Balinese culture and it’s artistic community. It’s also the home of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival;
Seminyak, Kerobokan and Jimbaran Bay – for an upmarket beach location with sunset bars, good seafood restaurants and shopping;
Canggu – just north of Seminyak, Canggu but has many private villas in the rice paddies that come with drivers to take you to the beach each day (if you like) or will ferry you to Seminyak for dinner each evening;
Ullawatu – for great surf and stunning cliff-top ocean views;
Kuta and Legian – don’t go there unless sleazy nightclubs and tacky bars are your thing; and
Sanur & Nusa Dua – for family-friendly beach holidays.

What to pack:
Not much. Bring the bare essentials (swimsuit, sarong, thongs***, hat, sunscreen, mosquito repellent a couple of floaty dresses that take you from beach to bar) and leave enough room in your suitcase for the shopping you’ll inevitably do. Forget the high heels – the streets can be treacherous so flat shoes are a godsend. Bali has high import taxes on alcohol, so it’s worth stocking up at duty free on departure – the alcohol limit is 1.5 litres per adult.

Things to do
The best thing about a villa holiday in Bali is doing nothing at all. Be pampered with massage (in most cases your villa will book therapists to come to you – it’s de rigeur to tip the villa staff and massage staff at the end of the stay), indulge in great food and wine (see Dining Out) or go shopping. For a giggle, book an in-villa personal training session (‘Rose’ took us back to the 80’s with an aerobics session to the sound of techno pop that we’ll never forget) and for the more adventurous book into a surfing lesson (Surf Goddess runs surf and yoga retreats for women), go white water rafting, mountain biking or climb Batur volcano – all of which can be organised by your villa.

Dining out:
Most luxury villas over in-house dining and catering options, but its also worth booking into some of the great restaurants and cafes Bali has to offer. In Ubud, try Mozaic* for award-winning French-Indonesian fusion cuisine in a beautiful setting; and Bridges* for fine dining in a relaxed setting, a cocktail lounge overlooking the river and Ubud’s only wine bar. In Seminyak, al fresco dining overlooking the beach at BREEZE at The Samaya and cocktails by the pool at Nutmeg Restaurant at Hu’Bar; head to La Lucciola (Kaya Ayu Beach, Temple Petitenget, Kerobokan) for a great brunch, or hang out with cool ex-pat types over what’s rumoured to be the best coffee in town at the Grocer & Grind. The Beach House at Echo Beach (Jl Nura Batu Mejan) is renowned for its seafood BBQ. * Bookings essential.

Bali is a shopping mecca for those who love Bali-style furnishings, homewares, woven baskets, garden furniture, amazing lights, Buddha and Ganesh statues, clothing and silver jewellery. There’s also a lot of not-so-great stuff that can make shopping overwhelming, so it’s a good idea to pick up a Luxe Guide a basic guide to start with. Many of the upmarket homewares, stone Buddha and lighting shops will also organise shipping home for you at a reasonable cost.

Visas & Departure taxes30-day visas can be obtained on arrival Denpassar Airport. Tip: To avoid the often two-hour long immigration queues, ask your villa to book a ‘fast track immigration’ service or book it through Bali Concierge for US$55 (including your visa and the VIP service). Keep Rps 150,000 up your sleeve for departure tax.

* ‘Bogan’ is a slang Australian term used to describe uncouth, usually lower-class people with bad taste and quite commonly, loud mannerisms. A bogan is akin to what Brits refer to as a ‘chav’ and Americans call ‘trailer park trash’.

** Bali is a mecca for surfers and whilst there are some bogan surfers it would be unkind of me to lump the two together.

*** ‘Thongs’ is the Australian term for flip flops, sandals or Jandals.

With thanks to guest Goddess, Kate Phillip.

Deborah Dickson-Smith switches from hotels to private villas and finds herself amazed by the luxury wow factor at the Space at Bali complex in Seminyak.

The latest trend in accommodation in Bali is the villa. A private villa, usually with private pool and five-star service, provides a truly luxurious holiday solution and it’s surprisingly affordable.

I’m staying at Space at Bali villas, hidden away off the main drag in Seminyak. In fact it’s a little like a hidden palace.

But the luxury doesn’t start here. It starts at the airport with Denpasar’s Concierge service. I’m greeted by a friendly Balinese face at the airport holding up a card bearing my name and I’m already starting to feel like a movie star. I’m then whisked away from the long queues at customs to a quiet lounge and presented with a cool glass of water and canapés, while they take away my passport to organise my visa.

Every detail of our villa is designed with care, from the aged double wooden doors  and curtained circular day bed in the “chill room” upstairs to the Moorish shuttered windows around the circular kitchen. Each air-conditioned bedroom features a walk-in wardrobe and an indoor-outdoor bathroom, complete with a deep free-standing bath surrounded by palms. They really know how to achieve the “wow” factor in Bali.

On arrival I’ve got time for a quick dip in the pool before my masseur arrives. I’m offered a choice of ylang ylang, citrus or lavender scented oil for my hour long Balinese massage which starts from my toes working all the way up to my forehead with a relaxing scalp massage.

The villa is a short walk from the beach and shops in Seminyak but drivers are available on request. There is a huge range of cafes and restaurants in Seminyak. You can choose from a wide range of cuisine, from traditional Balinese food to French, Italian, Indian or Japanese menus and the prices – even at the top end – are extremely reasonable.

After a surfing lesson in the morning at Kuta – possibly the best place in the world to learn how to surf with glassy gentle waves – I lunch at La Lucciola on the beach at Seminyak.

After lunch I’m taken to nearby Cool Spa in the centre of the hustle and bustle near Seminyak Square. An ingenious foot bath awaits before I’m led over stepping stones through a pebble covered floor to my massage table. The massage today differs in technique from yesterdays, with firm pressure applied gradually followed by a scalp massage.

The next morning I embark on a trip to Uluwatu, while not the most impressive temple in itself, in one of the most impressive of locations. Perched on the edge of 50 metre high cliffs and overlooking glassy turquoise waves below. It’s the perfect spot to sit and reflect on life.

Lunch is at Bumbu Bali in Nusa Dua which serves authentic Balinese cuisine in a beautiful setting resembling a Balinese temple and in the afternoon I’m treated to a Balinese style massage, body scrub and wrap.

Dinner tonight is at Sardine overlooking rice fields in an open plan restaurant built using traditional Balinese bamboo craftsmanship. The menu, which emphasizes fresh fish and seafood from the Indian Ocean and Bali Sea as well as organic vegetables from their own organic farm.

After a shopping spree in Ubud market I have dinner at another of Seminyak’s five-star eateries, Ku De Ta, with one of Bali’s heros, Asana Veibeke Lengkong, who heads up the I’m An Angel Foundation, largely funded by Ku De Ta.

Viebeke works tirelessly with her team to allocate funds and identify the most urgent needs of rural Balinese, talking to village communities to fully understand and appreciate what their individual needs are and providing them what they need to improve their quality of life.

While this is sounds like a holiday that would send most holiday goddesses back to work to pay it off for a couple of years, in fact it’s surprisingly affordable. The luxurious villas, which would comfortably sleep about six guests, cost as little as US$350 per night and mains at the most expensive restaurants cost about $10.

Useful Links

Space at Bali Villas: http://spaceatbali.com
Serene Villas: http://www.serenevilla.com/

Fantastic Local Restaurants

1.       Metis, Kuta
2.       La Luciola, Seminyak
3.       Alila, Uluwatu
4.       Hanging Gardens, Ubud
5.       Sardine, Seminyak

Where to Watch the Sun Set

1.       Karma Kandara, Uluwatu
2.       KuDeTa Bar and restaurant, Legian Beach
3.       The Rock Bar at Ayana Hotel, Jimbaran Bay
4.       Lovina Beach
5. Tanah Lot Temple

About Deborah Dickson-Smith
Holiday Goddess Editor Deborah Dickson-Smith has been immersed in the world of publishing for over 20 years now, working across a wide range of titles including Australian Geographic, Out & About With Kids, Cruise Passenger and Spa Life. Deborah has more recently begun to specialise in the online world as a regular contributor to Ninemsn.com.au/travel, holidaygoddess.com, Spalifeguide.com and Dayspaguide.com.au. Always the nomad, Deborah has lived in Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Edinburgh, London and is now reasonably settled in Sydney’s northern beaches with her three children. For now.

Kris McIntyre road-tests an upmarket health and wellness retreat in Bali that is well and truly Goddess-ready.

Bali's Como Shambhala Estate

COMO Shambhala Estate is the flagship property of COMO Shambhala, a holistic health retreat concept developed by Singaporean entrepreneur and goddess of good taste, Christina Ong. Voted as one of the best spas in the world by the likes of Conde Nast Traveller and SpaFinder The Estate describes itself as not just a spa and indulgence but ‘a retreat for change’.  The offering is a stylish but personalised and holistic escape with individualised programs for wellness, fitness and rejuvenation. The pièce de résistance is the week-long yoga retreats hosted by some of the best teachers in the world including Rodney Yee and Erich Schiffman.

The Welcome
I have never experienced anything quite like the COMO Shambhala welcome at Denpasar Airport. I’m barely off the gangplank and find myself greeted by a Balinese man wielding a big smile and a sign with my name on it. He guides me past the immigration queues, secures my visa, collects my baggage and escorts me to my driver for the one-hour trip past bustling traffic, peaceful temples, lush rice-paddies and a cremation ceremony to Ubud. This ‘rock star’ welcome turns out to be an apt introduction to a place that hinges its service around absolute care, consideration and being one step ahead of guest needs.

My Personal Assistant
I’m greeted at The Estate by more big Balinese smiles and a lei of tuber-roses (a tell-tale sign of all new-comers) before being escorted on a tour of the nine acres of gardens and thoughtfully appointed public spaces sitting above the River Ayung that make up The Estate. I arrive at my room where my ‘personal assistant’, Widi, brings me a welcome drink, checks me in and explains my daily schedule.

My Sanctuary
My room is a perfect sanctuary for the week that is about to unfold. It offers spacious, understated elegance with everything I could possibly need. A huge four-poster bed, comfortable furnishings in gentle natural tones, plasma TV, a balcony and outdoor setting to soak up the view of the lush gardens and terraced fields in the distance, an enormous bathroom that peeks into the world outside, a bowl of tropical fruit, an orchid plant and a big dose of serenity.

Wining & Dining
The Estate offers a number of dining options including the contemporary, open-air Glow restaurant; traditional Indonesian cuisine in Kudus House set in a gorgeous 150-year old former Javanese residence; light snacks served around the poolside Ojas area and in-room dining.

The COMO Shambhala food philosophy is a holistic approach to nurturing the body with food that tastes good but is good for you. There is no calorie-counting, but instead a balanced approach to food with a focus on fresh, local produce that suits the personal needs of the guest. Australian-born Executive Chef, Chris Miller, (formerly of Neil Perry’s, Wockpool) heads up the kitchen at Como Shambhala Estate and sister-property, Uma Ubud. In cahoots with the resident nutritionist, Miller dishes up healthy, but tasty fare with a full rein of influences ranging from Indian to Italian and of course, Indonesian. And alcohol? Yes, there is a bar and wine list!

Leisure Time
The Estate offers so many leisure options it’s almost hard to choose (I only left The Estate for a total of four hours in the week I was there). In addition to yoga and spa treatments, there is a host of onsite leisure activities including daily guided walks, Qi Gong, Tai Chi, Pilates, mountain biking, hiking, white-water rafting, tennis, outdoor circuit training and cooking demonstrations. There’s also a rock climbing wall, indoor gym, swimming pools, sauna and steam rooms as well as a comprehensive library of books to borrow during your stay. The Estate also offers guided cultural activities including visits to local temples, ceremonies and markets; cultural workshops including Balinese dance, photography and writing; and one-on-one wellness consultations with the resident nutritionist, Ayurvedic doctor, psychologists and therapists.

Leaving
I beg the General Manager for permission to stay or take Widi home. He declines on both fronts, so I reluctantly leave feeling relaxed, energised and inspired with the assurance that I’ll return again one day soon. I also recognise a new sense of inner peace and wisdom that I’m sure I didn’t have when I arrived at this ‘sacred place of bliss’.

MUST DO’S …
• The Estate Walk. Take your swimmers and a book for a dip in the spring pools near the river and lounge on the gorgeous day beds.
• Breakfast in Kudus Restaurant. Set in a 150-year old former Javanese residence, this intimate space is the perfect spot to enjoy the morning mist rising up through the rainforest. The porridge is delicious.
• A Hot Stone Massage with The Estate’s star practitioner, ‘Oka’
• A visit to the local healer, ‘Tjorkoda’ (as your Personal Assistant to book your visit)
• A shopping trip to ‘Threads of Life’ – a shop/museum dedicated to keeping the traditional weaving arts of Indonesia alive (www.threadsoflife.com)

FAST FACTS:
• Rates start at USD$300 per person, per night including accommodation, breakfast, a wellness consultation, use of leisure facilities, participation in daily activities and your personal assistant. For information about upcoming Yoga Retreats or The Estate’s personalised Wellness Programs visit www.cse.como.bz.
• COMO Shambhala operates COMO Shambhala Retreats at Bali, Bhutan, the Cocoa Island and the Maldives, with Urban Escapes in Bangkok, London and Singapore. For more information visit www.comoshambhala.bz
• Visas can be purchased on arrival in Bali for USD$10 (7 days) or USD$25 (30 days). Make sure your passport is up-to-date and valid for at least 6 months from arrival.

HOW TO GET THERE:
• Como Shambhala Estate is located 15 minutes drive from Ubud, and one-hour from Bali’s Denpasar International Airport.
• Airport transfers to COMO Shambhala Estate are USD$40 each way.