Novelist Faith Bleasdale returns to an amazing sushi restaurant a short walk from Camden train station in North London.

I love sushi. I love food in general, but sushi is right up at the top of my favourite food list. I’ve also been quite lucky with my sushi ever since I first discovered it; living in London and then Asia, I was always spoilt for choice.

Then I moved back to where I grew up; North Devon, on the British coast. Now, there are many things I love about the area but there are also many things I miss about London. One of them is my friends and the other is sushi – because there is none to be found in my new home – apart from those little plastic packs you get in supermarkets, which I don’t believe counts.

Whenever I leave the area and go back to London I have a rule; I have to have sushi!. And as it’s for one night only (and generally only once every few months), it’s imperative that my friends and I get it right. So my sushi secret in London is Bento.

Situated in Camden it’s a lovely restaurant which serves affordable, delicious Sushi and a wide range of Japanese food. Whether you want Maki, Tempura, Sashimi, or noodles then you won’t be disappointed. I think it’s a bit of a hidden gem because it really does deliver on food, service and price.

The restaurant itself is comfortable but not ostentatious. It’s fairly simple decor doesn’t reflect the food, but the service is friendly and fast and you don’t have to wait for hours to be get your food. It also offers a great take away service and it delivers locally. What more could a sushi lover want?

I won’t tell you what to eat, but any of the Maki is fabulous, the Bento salad is a favourite as is the black cod. My three year old loved his chicken Teriyaki and noodles (the restaurant is also completely family friendly.) I just think the answer is to try as much as you can, and go there as often as you can. Well, that’s what I do anyway!

Website www.bentocafe.co.uk

9 Parkway, Camden, London, NW1 7PG

020 7482 3990

Photo: Courtesy Bento Cafe

Vicki Arkoff asks Russell Simmons (Def Jam, Phat Farm) for his worldwide travel favourites.

When price is no object, how do the super-rich choose which hotels to book? For music, fashion and media mogul Russell Simons, it comes down to location, location, location, and a simple matter of (vegetarian) taste.

When you jet-set around the world, running multiple empires, it’s nice to know where to lay your head. “I know some good hotels,” says Russell Simmons, putting it mildly.

The hip-hop impresario, Def Jam music mogul, film and TV producer (“Krush Goove” was based on his life in the early days of rap music, and he’s since created programs such as Def Comedy Jam), fashion CEO (Phat Farm), social activist and philanthropist, is a self-made entrepreneur who’s come a long way from his teenage gang past when “selling drugs was the only way in.” Like no one else, he’s tapped the spirit of success, selling everything from sneakers to energy drinks, wireless phones to Visa debit cards to amass a reported net worth of $350 million. And each time he sells a chunk of his empire he earns another $120 million to expand even further. “I’ve created a business that didn’t exist a generation ago,” says the life-long New Yorker, who many believe is prepared to run for the NYC mayor’s office.

As wealthy and driven as he is, Simmons’ personal philosophy keeps him grounded. A vegan, he practices yoga daily and insists that all his employees read and write a book report on Deepak Chopra’s “The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success.” “I surround myself with people that share the same spirituality that I believe in. People who are focused on living better.”

Few people are focused on a life more luxurious than Simmons’, judging by his list of favorite hotels, each one a gem offering a glimpse of what he appreciates most:

“I like water and I like great beaches — I care a lot about beaches – and I care a lot about service,” Simmons said when deciding on his Top 5 Favorite Hotels list for HolidayGoddess.com. Above all, one particular amenity is essential: “I need to have green vegetable juice and good vegetarian food.”

THE BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL: Beverly Hills. “I don’t know what the best hotel is in L.A. but I choose The Beverly Hills Hotel because I’m comfortable there,” says Simmons. I like the bungalows and some of the suites in the main building are nice, too.” Offering unsurpassed privacy, the famous pink palace is a luxe five-star hotel nestled one 12 lush acres in one of the world’s richest neighborhoods, with easy access to Rodeo Drive shopping and dining.

9641 Sunset Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 www.beverlyhillshotel.com 


THE DORCHESTER: London. Situated in the heart of London’s Mayfair, with rooms and suites providing expansive views of Hyde Park, The Dorchester is fit for royalty – including the king of rap. A glamorous art deco gem, it recently celebrated its 80th anniversary with the neighborhood planting of 80 trees, and The Dorchester Spa reopened in May 2009 after a multimillion transformation. A wide range of dining is offered — from traditional afternoon tea to Cantonese cuisine – and highlighted by three-Michelin-star Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, one of London’s finest contemporary French dining experiences.

53 Park Lane, Mayfair, London, W1K 1QA, United Kingdom. www.thedorchester.com

OCEAN CLUB: Bahamas. “I love the Ocean Club.” What’s not to love? Renowned for its elegant sophistication, this elite, 35-acre, 3-mile-long beachfront hideaway reflects the posh exclusivity of a grand colonial manor, once the private estate of A&P heir Huntington Hartford II. Today its expansive manicured lawns and coconut palms provide an enchanting backdrop to the pristine white-sand beaches of Paradise Island. 105 guestrooms and residential-style villas. World-class golf, tennis, spa, pool, diving, snorkeling, sailing and wind-surfing.

P.O. Box N, 4777 Paradise Island, Bahamas. www.oceanclub.oneandonlyresorts.com

THE PALM, ONE & ONLY: Dubai. Located on the peninsula of one of the world’s most spectacular landscapes, The Palm offers an exclusive and secluded enclave of impeccable style on white-sand beaches. Amidst lush gardens, fountains and pools and miles of key shoreline, guests enjoy exclusivity in a stunning setting like no other. Like Simmons, its chic and tranquil, exciting and vibrant. On the horizon is the excitement of the New Dubai Skyline, a short journey by water taxi or limo.

Palm Island, The West Crescent, Dubai, 37252, United Arab Emirates. http://thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com/

RITZ-CARLTON, ROSE HALL RESORT: Jamaica. Guests at this luxury hotel enjoy an idyllic escape where they soak up the sun on a secluded beach, with warm sand, blue waters and green mountains as the backdrop. But it’s the accessibility that Simmons finds irresistible. “I like that you can get off the plane and be right there at Montego Bay.” Spectacular water aside, the hotel’s renowned amenities include five fine restaurants, a championship golf course. Each of the 427 guestrooms and suites has a private balcony or terrace.

1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Rose Hall, St. James, Jamaica, West Indies. www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/RoseHallJamaica/

Sue Ostler wrote about London night life for our bestselling book, Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide. This is her take on the Costa del Sol.

When a girlfriend said, “let’s go to Spain for a summer break”, I said, “yes please!” When she said we were going to Malaga, the gateway to the Costa del Sol in Andalulicia and a well known seaport, I was curious, because on one hand, most people go through Malaga to get somewhere else right – somewhere better?

On the other hand, I spent most of my twenties head banging to the Pixies who sang about Andalusia, which as it turns out, has nothing to do with the place Andalucia. Hmmm, curiouser and curiouser! I turned to research; many travel websites say that Malaga is one of the most popular destinations in the world to visit and home to excellent weather and beaches. Upon visiting it I found that it’s a long way from that – don’t get me wrong, it is pretty, but not nearly so glamorous as its neighbors Marabella and Torremolino dotted along the stretch of Andalucian coastline like big shiny gemstones, but…

Luckily for this Holiday Goddess, Malaga has something different to offer besides Spanish beach glamour. It’s got music. It’s got soul. It’s got rock bars. It’s got fantastically friendly people. And it isn’t jammed to the rafters with rip-roaring British tourists – this in my mind made it the perfect seaside holiday. And to be fair, the beaches are fine, they just don’t have life changing capacities of the other more showy Costa del Sol beaches, but, with the sun shining down brightly as one lies for hours and bakes flaccid British bodies a toffee shade of brown, they do the job.

If you can drag yourself away from the beach for long enough, there’s a heck of a lot to explore. The Alameda Principal city centre offers good enough shopping opportunities, both quirky and cheap, but it’s the backdrop that smacks of medieval charm, cultural heavyweights and hidden treasures like the epic Catedral de la Encarnación which boasts the odd religious ceremony big enough and bad enough to shut the town down for a Sunday afternoon, and a cool stylish respite in the form of the Picasso museum (he was born there you see). Put it all together and you’ve got yourself a busy few days to wile away.

If you’re done lazing and culture-hopping, there are some very pretty sights just outside the town centre to behold as well. A fifteen minute bus ride will take you to up a steep mountain to the Alcazaba Fortress affording stunning views over the Port of Malaga. If you can hack the scenic walk back down to the town centre, you’ll be rewarded with a decent workout and the choice of hundreds of tiny eateries dishing up homemade tapas and long leisurely lunches washed down by sparkling Tinto de Verano for just a few Euros.

During the weekend, Malaga comes alive with the clubs and bars and interesting people from all over, and there seems no other option than to party all night. And party all night we did. But weeknights, your best bet is to bunker down with friends in one of the many absolute beachfront bars.

Malaga might not score points for being the prettiest place on the Costa del Sol block, but for wanderlust, fragrance, mystery and light, history, beauty, relaxed chills and thrills – it was a blast.

We stayed in a rather fine hostel which I would happily recommend: the Melting Pot Hostel Málaga · Paseo del Pintor Joaquín Sorolla, 30 · Málaga (Spain) · Phone: (+34)952 600571 · malaga@meltingpothostels.com

Photo: Flickr CC, mer de glace

Betselling novelist Faith Bleasdale takes a picnic, a friend, some small children and a lifelong fear of spiders to the legendary London Zoo.

It was February when I took my three-year-old on his very first visit to London Zoo. Despite having mixed feelings about zoos, (ideally, in my opinion, all animals would stay in their natural habitats), I wanted my little boy to see for real the animals we read about and saw on television.

London Zoo is also very committed to conservation and spread over quite a distance (not to be tried in heels, I fear); the animals do seem to have nice, spacious habitats to thrive in. And I have to say most of them didn’t look depressed.

Myself, my three-year-old, and my friend’s seven-year-old all set off to attempt seeing 760 different species. I am pretty sure that although we were there for five hours, we didn’t quite see them all. But we did see the gorillas, which were impressive, and my son’s favourite – giraffes, (I couldn’t tear him away). The Zoo was incredibly busy and full of excited children which was lovely to see.

It is an attraction that is, of course, geared toward children,(although I did see some couples there), and so therefore most of the day was amazingly easy. We watched penguins being fed; I was made to face my fear by looking at spiders, (still having nightmares) and my toddler really seemed to enjoy actually spending time looking at the animals as well as running around and being outdoors.

As well as animals there was face-painting (we avoided that, due to the fact I actually find it almost as scary as spiders), a couple of rides, (couldn’t avoid that as my toddler insisted), and playgrounds for the children to explore – and play on. It feels safe and well designed, and there is pretty much everything you would want for your child. And, I should add, it was pretty exciting for an adult too.

On the downside eating wasn’t great. There are a choice of cafes, however they were packed and also, the main cafe is about as un-child friendly as it could be. Designed by someone who clearly doesn’t have children, the tables were so close together, that you could barely get to them. Trying to juggle a high-chair, two children and a tray wasn’t the most fun. But once the stress of lunch was over, then things improved.

The zoo is a friendly place. The staff were happy to stop and answer the children’s questions, and there were lots of happy families milling around.

However, it certainly isn’t a cheap day out. Ticket prices are high; under-threes might go in free, but adults’ tickets are £20.50, and children’s tickets £16.0 ( not including food, drink, rides and of course quite a few trips to the gift shop.)

They also try to get you to buy photos and maps too. Avoid that if you can. It is worth saving up for but it’s not for the faint hearted!

However, if you take a picnic and avoid the majority of commercial temptations then it is definitely worth it. London has many attractions both for adults and children; however the zoo is probably one of my favourites. Highly recommended.

ZSL London Zoo
Regents Park
London
NW1 4RY
www.zsl.org

Faith Bleasdale dines at an award-winning foodie paradise set in the stunning Dartmoor National Park.

Gidleigh Park restaurant has a huge amount to recommend it. Its location is simply stunning. The surrounding Dartmoor area, a wonder to explore, is worth a visit alone. But Gidleigh Park is also one of the country’s top eateries and hotels thanks to its executive chef, Michael Caines, MBE.

It is known as one of the leading country House hotels in the UK, although I didn’t stay there (it is pricey to say the least). Really, it’s the restaurant that I want to talk about, though. It has won a large number of prestigious awards; including being #3 in the Sunday Times Top 100 Restaurants list. It also has two Michelin stars.

The menu is original and creative, with a commitment to local produce and businesses. I also admire their determination to raise the profile of the local area; an area I visited often in my childhood and one I always remember as an area of outstanding natural beauty.

There are many B&Bs on Dartmoor that would be fantastic to stay in, so if you can visit the area for a few days then I cannot recommend it enough.

Although the status of Gidleigh Park is reflected in its price, you can sample a two course set lunch for £37.00 and three courses for £47.50. (Although this will be bumped up by a very lovely but pricey wine list).

We opted for a three course lunch with a glass of wine and I ordered Brixham Mackerel, with Thai puree and fennel salad to start with, and Chump of Dartmoor lamb with an olive crust, fondant potoato, and smoked aubergine to follow – finished with a Passion Fruit Mousse.

It was all utterly delicious. It was also generously served and I certainly didn’t go away hungry. They also offer tasting menus which at about £120 for eight courses for lunch is a little bit more of a stretch. And also definitely for foodies.

Gidleigh Park has also won awards for its service but be aware that there is no informal dining here. I went to the Ladies and came back to find my napkin had been re-folded – and if you want to have a conversation then don’t drain your water glass too quickly! Oh and you might not want to wear jeans either, as everyone in the restaurant with us was very smartly dressed!

The hotel would be lovely to stay in but with rooms starting at £310 per night, it wasn’t an option. And perhaps I would have preferred a rustic B&B anyway (I’ll keep telling myself that). I know that some people have found the hotel wonderful, whilst others want something a little less formal.

If you like your food, however, then this is definitely a place to save up to visit. Have lunch, take a leisurely walk in the wonderful grounds and explore the nearby area. It’s a little bit of heaven in Devon.

For accommodation in Dartmoor and to find out more about the area visit www.dartmoor.co.uk

Gidleigh Park

Chagford

Devon

TQ13 8HH

01647432367

www.gidleigh.com
Photo: courtesy of Gidleigh Park Hotel

Exclusive to Holiday Goddess and Women in Focus - Up to 21 Nights Accommodation and Blogging Opportunity in Central London During the Olympic Games.

How would you like to rent a room in a central London flat, just ten minutes to the Olympic Village and report back to Holiday Goddess? One of our British editors, Sue Ostler, has one of the few central London spaces left, during the Olympics – at an exclusive 10% discount for Holiday Goddesses.

Sue Ostler, Holiday Goddess

Sue writes – “You’ll be a guest at my inner city pad in Islington in zone 2 with a garden-flat to share. I’ll be reporting (unofficially) on all the Olympic shenanigans, and I invite you to join me! The blogs will be posted to the Women in Focus community and Holiday Goddess as they come in from London.”

What’s included?

Up to 21 nights stay in an adorable garden flat in hip Islington. You’ll have a cosy garden bedroom with double bed, bedding and all linen provided, along with continental breakfast, coffee and tea making amenities, Wi-Fi connection and use of digital TV. The room can accommodate you + one. A fully equipped kitchen and a private back garden with BBQ is available to use.

Your room is a few stops from Piccadilly Circus

• 5 mins away from Highbury Islington station
• 10 mins to the Olympic Stadium by over-ground rail.
• 6 mins to Piccadilly line which will take you to central London within 10mins.
• 5 minute walk to Upper Street, Angel, Islington, London’s most exciting and diverse entertainment metropolis
• Many buses and night buses nearby
• Ref: Google Maps London N7 8PZ.

The room is available between July 10 – Aug 16 2012.

Minimum stay: 2 weeks. 10% off for Women In Focus members

Option 1. 2 Weekly Rate: $1,100.00 per week, per person minus 10% = $990 per week

Option 2. 3 Weekly Rate: $900.00 per week, per person minus 10% = $810 per week

Terms and Deposits 50% Deposit to hold Olympic room rental.
Balance Two Months Before arrival.

£500 damage deposit upon arrival.
Damage deposit returned on the last day.
Other deposits are non-refundable.

To apply for this offer, you’ll need to join Sue’s blog on Women In Focus. 

All prices in Australian dollars. Images Sue Ostler/Wikimedia Commons.

If you want to take your dog on holiday in England this year, think about the Isle of Wight – and download the wonderful Pawprints brochure, which is the result of months of research with dog owners (and dogs) from Appley Sands to Firestone Copse.

Foxy loves the seaweed beds

Exploring the woods, swimming in the sea and dining in dog-friendly pubs were rated as favourite Isle of Wights pursuits. Visitors say they are “amazed” at how many places are open to dogs on the Isle of Wight, including the Victorian train carriages on the old Wight Steam Railway.

Local dogs love it too. They travel in sidecars on motorbikes (some wear goggles). Even if you visit the Isle of Wight by ferry and car, rather than dog-customized motorbike, locals say the island is easier to explore than you might think. Dogs particularly love the sand dunes as do their human owners. For children, it’s an Enid Blyton holiday.

School holidays, dog holidays

Doggy Paddles Retreat is just one place to book (it has a hydrotherapy pool for dogs on-site). There are also plenty of boarding kennels, so your dog can sleep away by night, but join you for walks by day.

If your dog likes to surf, locals recommend Dunroamin or Compton Bay. The Isle of Wight is a ferry-ride away.

All images from the Pawprints brochure – Lee Higham

Maison Adam's boxed bliss

The box says it all: veritable macarons. St-Jean-de-Luz’s Maison Adam doesn’t deal in the pretty Parisian flavour follies that have come to epitomise the term. Here in the Basque country they come damp, dense and chewy, a macaron traditionnel of nothing fancier than ground almonds, egg whites, sugar and salt. These simple but seductively rich, fragrant biscuits have been made by Maison Adam since 1660. Said to have been created in celebration of the marriage of Louis, the Sun King, and his Spanish bride María Teresa at the nearby border, Maison Adam’s is a poetic and perfectly legitimate claim for the original macaron title. They are not the only contender, however, with several cities, including Nancy in Lorraine, Amiens in Picardy and Saint-Emilion, just outside Bordeaux, still turning out their own almond-rich versions along withe equally compelling back stories, if not the Sun King cachet.

Taste: Maison Adam, of course, for the macarons themselves but also for their fetching bright green tins, adorned with a black lauburu, the tumbling comma-headed Basque cross. They also do a fabulous gâteau basque à la crème.
Stay: Zazpi Hotel is a Euro day-glo riot set in a stately old central townhouse, or there’s Villa Arguibel – nestled in the verdant valleys behind Guethary, a bobo beachside village a few miles north – a wonderful maison d’hôtes with super stylish, wilfully eccentric décor. Not to mention lovely hosts. Story – Donna Wheeler.

 The Fan Museum, in Greenwich, challenges central London hotels (where afternoon tea hovers around £30-£40) with a simple, delicious home-made menu under £10 and a stunning Georgian townhouse environment.

Charles Sprague Pearce

Head to the quirky Fan Museum in Greenwich for the best £10 Afternoon Tea in London. Admission is £3 to see the highly collectable fans, and afternoon tea in the lovely Georgian Orangery, with scones and cake is a mere £6.

The Fan Museum is a short walk from the Greenwich overground / DLR station and the Greenwich, Cutty Sark DLR station. The museum is located on Croom’s Hill, almost opposite the Greenwich Theatre. There are guided tours (including admission £5) and fan-making workshops – just bring wrapping paper to start (admission £20). There are 4000 fans in the collection, ranging from a 13th century Chinese model to a strangely modern Dyson. The museum’s owner makes the fruity jam on your scones, and the cake is home-made too. Lovely! (Thanks to the Holiday Goddesses @holidaygoddess on Twitter for inspiration).

(Image Wikimedia Commons).

If you’re in London this April, don’t miss the 2012 Oxford v. Cambridge Goat Race on Saturday 7th at Spitalfields, in the East End. Tickets are £5 for adults and 50 pence for children at  Goat Race 2012 tickets http://is.gd/goats2012

Off they go!

Cambridge beat Oxford for the third year running in 2011 in a world record time of 56.9 seconds –  sadly, Oxford was delayed by her lavatory arrangements.

Cambridge wobbles into the lead

The Goat Race for Saturday, April 7th begins at 12 noon for lunch, and the actual race starts at 4pm.  It’s at Spitalfields City Farm in East London, situated near Brick Lane.  Spitalfields City Farm, Buxton Street, E1 5AR

Goat racing is taken very seriously in Tobago, Trinidad, where the idea may have originated. Every Easter, goat races draw international visitors to a $112 million track, created partly with the event in mind.

The London event may be held over humble cobblestones, but this will be £5 (all for charity) well spent. Holiday Goddess will be live Tweeting on the day @holidaygoddess. Thanks to The Goat Race for images.

British Holiday Goddess editors love Hastings – one of the best London getaways by train or car. Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide editor Lily Evans revisits it for us, tries the Judges Bakery buns, and makes us want to go back…

Judge's Bakery (Lily Evans)

Hastings Old Town is a small fishing village made big by its character. Its mismatched and often historic houses are situated between two great hills, the west hill is crowned with the castle ruins from the battle of 1066 and the east hill swoops back into acres of the most magical forest complete with streams, waterfalls, caves and the sound of the sea.

Ecclesbourne Glen is in the heart of this forest. It boasts breathtaking cliff views and hidden paths that pull you into another world, one of nature untouched by time. A great place for picnics and walks and to just enjoy the sun, shining through canopies of tree leaves like sequins.

Hastings on the English Channel (Lily Evans)

In the town Judges bakery provides in-house-fresh-baked bread, local and organic produce and all kinds of mouth- watering baked goods. The croissants are more buttery and flakier than Paris’s finest and the cheese scones are worth getting up early for, when hot.

The creators of Green and Blacks, who have turned their hand to artisan bread, own the bakery. With traditional baking techniques and the finest ingredients they have created bread so delicious that it’s hard not to scoff the whole loaf before you’re home. It’s honestly the best bread I’ve ever eaten. Cakes range from bakewell tarts to heavenly chocolate brownies and these luxuries remain at small town prices, so you can try them all.

Opposite Judges is The Wardrobe, a fantastic vintage shop that remains a bit of a secret to those in the know. Dresses range from 1920’s gowns to modern looks by the big names in fashion. Best of all you’ll find a range of beautiful wedding dresses: 1940’s in ivory silk or bridesmaids dresses coloured like cupcakes. I spend hours trying them all on; these are clothes that remind you of the romance in dressing up. Visit Hastings by train from London – tickets available from The Trainline.

Lily Evans

Lily Evans is a writer and stylist living in New York. 

She has worked for Vogue and Teen Vogue, on runway shows including
 Victorias Secrets and as a writer for magazines including Vice.

 Originally from the south east coast of England. She now spends her
time between New York, London and India. 

blessthisdress.net

Holiday Goddess reader Katherine Roy loves Paris falafel. But is it the best in Europe? (Photograph: Katherine Roy)

Lenny Kravitz likes it, apparently.

Would you catch the Metro to the Paris village known as the Marais, just to try the world’s best falafel? So many people do, that the queue outside L’As du Fallafel (The Ace of Falafel) stretches out of the doorway. And is it worth the queue? Holiday Goddess readers and editors agree – absolutely.

Lenny Kravitz is said to be a huge fan of L’As du Fallafel, and as the Marais is very rock star, with all its hipster boutiques and dark late-night bars, perhaps the rumour is true.

Before you even get to the Rue des Rosiers, the so-called ‘Falafel Alley’ of the area, you’ll probably want to lick the windows of someof the best tea, candle and perfume boutiques in Paris. Diptyque and Fragonard are both in the Marais, along with some tres charmant shops with ancient French telephones and playing cards.

Vegetarians should head straight for the Marais, and Falafel Alley (Rue des Rosiers) if they ever hit desperation point.

So is the New York Times (not to mention Frommers) right about the takeaway falafel at L’As du Fallafel? The answer lies in the smell, which is a wonderful mixture of warm bread, fresh hommous and spicy eggplant. It’s enough to convert any meat-eater.

The success of L’As du Fallafel has made it easier for other sandwich joints to set up around them. Mi Va Mi, at number 23, also attracts rave reviews, from no less than Emily Horne at Vegan Paris and Yelp.

Even though L’As du Fallafel has over 100 seats, you’ll still need to arrive early (try just before noon) to bag a place for lunch, in the height of the tourist season.

It’s cheap too. When Holiday Goddess visited in the 2011/2012 season, a takeaway falafel sandwich was 5 euros to go, and 7.50 euros in the dining room.

The nearest Metro station is St Paul, and you’re heading for Rue des Rosiers (just follow the signs, or the crowds of salivating women). When you’re done, spend more time mooching around the Marais in the company of Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide editor, Jane de Teliga.

After shopping, where are the best places to eat and drink in central London? Holiday Goddess editor Andreina Cordani has worked in Soho for the last seven years, which means there’s very few bars or restaurants around there she hasn’t been to!

Andreina Cordani

 The problem with central London, especially around Oxford and Regent Street is that there are just too many places to eat and drink and it can be impossible to tell the amazing gastro experience from the pretentious rip-off until you’ve gone in and sat down. But choose wisely and you’ll top off your day’s shopping with a fabulous meal…

Luscious lunches

There’s been a lot of hype around Polpo, an Italian tapas place in Beak Street and the food there is delicious, although it can end up being quite pricey. I recommend the hot chocolate pot* – it’s  only little so try to leave room for it! For a faster-paced Italian dining experience, there’s Princi on Wardour Street which serves great quality dishes in a fast-food canteen style. You’ll hear lots of customers chatting away in Italian to the staff which is about as good a recommendation as you can get. You can’t reserve tables here and it’s often busy at lunchtime, so be prepared to jostle. Fancy Indian food instead? Try a thali at Masala Zone on Marshall Street. If you’re eating on the move, there’s an increasing selection of street food available at Berwick Street Market where you can get a burrito the size of your head for around five pounds. There’s a great atmosphere at The Breakfast Club on D’Arblay Street, which is so good (especially at breakfast strangely enough) that people queue for up to half an hour to get in, so be warned! For a very civilised lunch with tables on a relatively quiet road, try Aubaine on Heddon Street.

Healthy choices and veggie treats

Hmm – healthy is a tricky one. Salad bars abound in the area, like Vital Ingredient on Berwick Street or Pure on Beak Street, but not many of them have places to sit.

Pure (Andreina Cordani)

The local Wholefoods Market on Brewer Street has an eating area which is good for catching a bite – it’s pricey but their freshly made sushi or vegetarian menu is worth checking out. Best veggie eats in town are to be had at Mildred’s in Lexington Street though – their burrito and veggie burger are both divine – there is no need to book but it gets lively and crowded at peak times.

Sketch, Hakkasan and Refuel

For big birthdays, proposals (listen carefully boys!)  and other celebrations, try Conduit Street, home to Sketch, beloved of celebrities and media luvvies alike. The food is fab but the appeal lies in that feeling of stylish exclusivity, the celeb-spotting and the bizarre toilets – the first floor loos feel like being in a music box and the ground floor ones are shaped like eggs.

Sketch can be difficult to get into, so book well in advance. The same applies to Hakkasan, the modern oriental restaurant on Hanway Street, but it’s worth a visit. Another good media/celeb hangout is the Refuel restaurant and bar, which is on the ground floor of Soho Hotel on Richmond Mews. For a classy but not unaffordable meal, head to Andrew Edmunds on Lexington Street. It’s a winner every time.

Watering holes

After office hours, especially on Thursdays and Fridays in summertime, the streets of Soho fill up with office workers standing outside their pub of choice. So for a truly authentic experience, find the nearest boozer and fall in the door. But if you’re a bit pickier, there are plenty of outstanding bars. If you’re looking for live music and the feel of an American dive bar head to Ain’t Nothin’ But... blues bar in Kingly Street. Get there early and you end up with a front row seat for some  earthy, sometimes riotous music. A few doors down is Red Bar – where they have great booths and sofas for lounging around on. Are you a smoker/immune to the cold, and looking for seats outside? Strawberry Moon, opposite Aubaine in Heddon Street is for you – it can have a bit of a pick-up joint atmosphere some nights though… that could be a good or bad thing, depending on what you look for in a night out! In and around Soho, there really is something for everyone.

The best ice-cream in Paris is sold at Berthillon, but in summer the queue is so long, it hardly seems worth the pleasure at the other end. Holiday Goddess contributing editors who love Paris, say winter is the best time to buy. And preferably the tail-end of the season, when it’s not too freezing – but just crisp and sunny enough, to enjoy the most outstanding French takeaway in the city.

Summer at Berthillon - crowded

This is a handpicked selection from the current winter menu, which holds until springtime in Paris becomes official.

Caramelized Apples

Vanilla ice-cream and pear sorbet

Pina Colada Ice Lite

Creole ice, coconut and  pineapple sorbet

Mango & raspberry meringues

Ice Cream & chocolate hazelnut, pear sorbet and meringues

Apricot and pistachio ice cream

Berthillon uses only milk, sugar, cream and eggs with flavours from natural sources – usually around sixty in number, according to the season. The salted butter caramel ice-cream is sought after, the city over.

Image: Kathryn Roy

Berthillon have been making ice cream since the 1950’s when Monsieur Berthillon started selling his homemade ice cream from his shop – still on the  Ile St-Louis, or Saint Louis Island. The Berthillon ice cream shop is located at number 31 Rue St-Louis en l’Ile. The nearest metro station in Paris is at Pont Marie, just cross the bridge when you get out.

Make sure you ask for the chef’s choice for the day. The weather may be cold, and the ice-cream colder, but there’s a lot to be said for dining away from the tourist season.

Holiday Goddess Contributing editor Kathryn Roy: ”Berthillon ice cream is wonderful. The creaminess is  like no other ice cream I’ve ever had and the flavours are just so prominent and consistent. I ordered a scoop of the flavour du jour as per the counter staff’s recommendation (vanilla laced with chocolate cake) and a scoop of the salted caramel, both fantastic. Five stars – just go!”

(Berthillon store image: Wikimedia).

Emma Killick (pictured, centre) wrote some of your favourite guides to Paris in The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide. Here, she takes the five-hour trip from London to Lyon in search of the best places to dine, and wander…

Lots of cities claim to be the “Paris of the East.” I think that the “Paris of the East” is Lyon. It has the grandeur, the architecture, the history, and even an island in the middle like the Île de Cité, but all on a smaller, more manageable (and decidedly less crowded) scale.

For tourist attractions, don’t miss the Resistance Museum (14 Avenue Berthelot), the fabulous Hôtel de Ville (one of the great city halls at Place de la Comédie), and the Museum of Fine Arts (20 Place des Terreaux). Unsurprisingly, a smattering of impressive churches can also be found if you just wander the streets, which is always what I like to do. Then there’s the Roman Amphitheatre, up on the hill behind the old quarter (6 Rue de l’Antiquaille, Monteé de Fourvière). Lyon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for good reason.

All of France is really about food and wine, but Lyon promotes itself as the capital of all things gastronomic. Surrounded by the Burgundy and Côtes du Rhône wine-producing regions, great, local wine is obviously on offer. Apparently they call the local traditional restaurants “bouchons”. It kind of makes sense because a “bouchon” is a cork. But it is also a traffic jam . . . bottleneck, I suppose, stuff caught in your throat? Geez, I don’t know, but it is what it is. Lots of menu items will say “a la lyonnais”, which basically means it’ll have onions in it.

Head to Rue Mercière – one of the pedestrianized streets on the island between the Rhône and Saône rivers. The whole street is filled with restaurants with the tables spilling on to the road in the way the French do so well, with the change in style of chairs demarking one from the next. Generally, you can’t go wrong, but the traditional, and fabulous, Le Mercière is at number 56 (http://www.le-merciere.fr). When your senses are overwhelmed by the sights and smells of an entire street of restaurants, the best way to decide which one to pick is to: (a) meander down the whole street first, (b) see which ones are busy, (c) linger long enough to make sure the busy ones are full of the discerning French, not foreign-speaking tourists, (d) take a look at the food on the tables (if no one has any, move along because you’ll be waiting forever) and see if it is appealing, and (e) include a bit of destiny in your decision – if the place has passed the test so far and a table is just freeing up – pounce! If you aren’t starving, another suggestion (and what we did) was find a bar with a good vista – stools are good for this – and take in the surroundings while sipping on an aperitif. You can subtly sift through the above criteria and be ready to make your move casually.

We plonked ourselves down in the bar opposite Le Mercière and help was on hand from the barman when the table at the restaurant was nearly nabbed by new passersby. We were being so British (well, my partner was) and so polite – the waiter had said he would call us over when he had cleared and reset the table. Zut alors, two pushy people tried to sit down when the waiter turned his back! The barman saw our distress and ran across faster than I could clumsily remove myself from my barstool and took care of business for us. He was so friendly and helpful we said we would return for coffee after dinner. He insisted that we go away and explore the city by night, walking off our dinner over the Saône to the oldest part of Lyon. Only after this were we allowed to return. And he was right. The French really know how to light up an old building, don’t they? Lyon has an advanced degree on the subject and even has a festival of lights. We made our way to the Saône and walked over the Pont du Palais de Justice and wandered through Vieux Lyon. After a couple of quaint squares we reached Beef Street (rue de Boeuf – it sounds so much better in French, doesn’t it?) and couldn’t resist stopping at a little bar for a cointreau. But, yes, we did return to see Mr. Friendly for a coffee. . . and another cointreau.

There’s a good blog about Lyon at http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/lyon/category/travel-tips/ It hasn’t been updated in a while, but it has great local info (including stuff like how to use the city bike system) and is an entertaining read.

You can get there by train from London in five hours. Changing in Lille, rather than Paris, is the most stress-free way to do it (if you go via Paris you have to change stations, and that’s about 5 kms of a challenge you don’t need with luggage). Bon voyage.

Thanks for buying the Australian top ten travel book bestseller, The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome. These are exclusive extras for you to download to your iPod or print and pack.

Drawing: Anna Johnson

PARIS

Watch the chapter come alive, from tins of snails at Galeries Lafayette, to the streets of the Marais. All the v-cards in our book have been edited by  Holiday Goddess editor Peter Clarke at Heaven and Earth Films.

Continue your Paris journey with us online here.

LONDON

The Dove is one of our favourite pubs. But then we find it hard to leave The Victoria and Albert Museum too. Watch the video here.  All our London extras are online including a complimentary download from Sweet Tooth, featuring London chanteuse Fleurtini (pictured, below) with the sounds of Soho and Mayfair.

Sweet Tooth

NEW YORK

If you can’t listen to Woody Allen’s jazz on the flight to New York, the next big thing is a handpicked selection of the best Manhattan soundtracks around. Pick it up here, along with other NYC extras for the book. And don’t miss our New York video postcard.

ROME

Chapter extras are here. And this is the best place to see even more of Roma.

Drawing: Anna Johnson

Image Palmerslodges.com

Private rooms in hostels (under £75 if you book months ahead) are one way to stay in London without wasting money on mini-bars. Even better, if you are prepared to stay in a dormitory full of other women, you can stay overnight for the price of dinner. It’s your choice, but these three are the hippest and the best.

The Designer One

Palmers Lodge (pictured above) is beautifully styled with retro furniture and leather armchairs, and costs under £60 for a private ensuite room, off-peak. Free internet and continental breakfast is included, as is a reading room. Also on offer? A games room, a bar in an old bike shed, cafe, restaurant, pool table, towel hire, hairdryer hire. It’s in Willesden Green, a leafy London suburb – thus the price drop. Holiday Goddess editors who’ve stayed, say – expect a short walk to 24-hour bus stops and the tube (London Underground train) station, with trains taking you into London, in the time it takes you to read Metro, the free local newspaper. Book here.

The Punk History One

Clink 78 is a hostel with a history. It used to be a courthouse, and it takes its name from the 1978 trial of punk legends The Clash, who were convicted here for shooting pigeons. It also happens to be the place where Charles Dickens worked on Oliver Twist between 1837 and 1839  so bring your laptop. It is an English Heritage  listed building and although a bit (just a bit) backpackery, it also offers private rooms. We booked six months ahead and found a rate for £75 overnight. Book here.

The One Near Harvey Nichols

The Meininger Hyde Park is within walking distance of Harvey Nichols and Harrods. It’s also a short walk from the Victoria and Albert Museum, which Holiday Goddess editors love for its fashion collection. This is a German hostel inside Baden Powell House, the boy scout headquarters of Great Britain. If you are travelling with a boy scout, he can get a discount. For you, it’s still cheap. The last time we checked this place was looking clean, modern, super-organised and very busy. We suggest booking as far in advance as possible to grab the incredibly low rates all under £60. Find your room here.

Our March update

Where are the best cheap Paris and London hotels, right now, for your Spring/Summer 2012 trip? Right here.

Best Paris Bargainista Luxury Hotel

If you want beauty, and a garden (but not a huge price-tag) then Hotel des Grandes Ecoles (nearest Metro train station, Cardinal Lemoine) is your best bet. Rooms are priced from 118 Euros (see our rough currency converter, below). A continental breakfast is 9 Euros.

Best Paris Cheap+Chic Area

If you don’t have time to waste on the internet wading through reviews and ever-changing prices, then just do this. Hit ‘Gare du Nord’ on your search. You will be looking for hotels around the major Paris train station, Gare du Nord. You won’t find The Ritz, so be warned. But you will find French charm, shabby history, lots of wonderful cafes for breakfast and low, low overnight prices. You will be a short walk away from all the Eurostar trains arriving from London (and connecting you from Paris to the rest of Europe).  You can also use the big Gare du Nord station itself to catch the Metro, which connects you in just a few stops to the centre of Paris.

Holiday Goddess specialises in Gare du Nord hotels under 70 Euros (under US/AUD$100) a night on its handpicked list with Bookings.com. Hit our list now and search Paris, Gare du Nord for the latest flash-sale bargains.

London’s Best Bet – The YHA Chain

Just go!

Book months ahead for these rooms. You’re looking for London Central YHA (right in the centre of London) and also London St Pancras YHA (next to the train station, Kings Cross St. Pancras, which connects you by Eurostar to Paris. It’s also central).

The YHA have been looking after people for years, so they know what they are doing. Both these hostels in their chain are recently renovated, close to tube (LondonUnderground train) stations and have a modern, fresh feel.  London Central YHA is at 108 Bolsover Street WI and the nearest tube is Great Portland Street. Rooms from £70 overnight. London St. Pancras YHA is close to the luxurious shops, cafes, bars and Paris-bound trains inside the mighty train station, Kings Cross St Pancras, just up the road. It’s at 79 Euston Road, with rooms from £61. Find both here.

The Biggest, Cheapest  European Hotel Search Website

Want to compare Holiday Goddess prices  with another vast booking site? We really love Hotels Fairy.

Best European Hostel Chain for Glampacking

The St. Christopher’s chain has hostels across Europe. We did a random price-check in the off-peak season and found a double room in Paris, with shared bathroom, for £42.71. If you can sleep in a dormitory, the prices for dorm beds are seriously low – you can stay over in some St. Christopher’s European hostels for the price of dinner.

ROUGH PRICE GUIDE

20 Euros = about $25 (Australian or US) or £17

The Woody Allen romantic comedy Midnight in Paris is up for several Oscars, thanks partly to the presence of Carla Bruni, the French first lady. If Woody’s film wins, then this year, Paris wins too.

The film is a beautifully lit  tribute to Montmartre, the Palace of Versailles, Sacré-Cœur, the Pont Alexandre III, the Opéra de Paris and the Musée Rodin. Shooting also took place on the streets near the Panthéon, at the Marché Aux Puces (Parisian flea market) and on the Île de la Cité. The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide editors’ favourite Paris bookshop Shakespeare and Company also features prominently.

The Handbag Guide

If Midnight in Paris wins Best Picture, Best Direction, Best Original Screenplay and/or Best Art Direction then hotel bookings for Le Meurice, a central location in the film, may be gone forever (just blame Madamoiselle Bruni…)

 Holiday Goddess editor Victoria Aitken had only just let us know about her Vogue interview in Germany this month, when Vogue UK were online with wonderful news for fashionistas. Tom Ford, Diane von Fursternberg, Matthew Williamson, Natalia Vodianova, Nigella Lawson and Mary Portas will all be appearing at The Vogue Festival on Friday April 20th and Saturday April 21st, at The Royal Geographical Society in London.

Vogue goes live in London

‘We’re letting you know the good news early, as the best British train fares into London are being snapped up as we speak. Try Virgin if you are travelling from Birmingham or Manchester – advance bookings can be made months ahead, and we just saw people booking one-way fares well under £10 on their website.

For full details of the Vogue festival see a preview here - there are a few advance-purchase options, at high prices, but general release tickets will go on sale soon. See you there!

]]> http://holidaygoddess.com/destinations/europe/the-vogue-festival-in-london/feed/ 0 http://holidaygoddess.com/destinations/europe/england-europe-destinations/knightsbridge-london-without-maps/ http://holidaygoddess.com/destinations/europe/england-europe-destinations/knightsbridge-london-without-maps/#comments Fri, 03 Feb 2012 20:22:39 +0000 Holiday Goddess Editors http://holidaygoddess.com/?p=9370

Knightsbridge Tube Station

Emma Killick knows London well. And like us, she prefers a map-free, app-free guide to the best shopping in Knightsbridge – from Gucci to Chanel via Harvey Nichols.

Put on your best frock and give your credit card company a warning call: you’re off for a day of shopping in Knightsbridge.

1. Exit Knightsbridge tube station on the London Underground train network and take a gander at the modern buildings in front of you: One Hyde Park is currently the most expensive real estate in the world. At £136 million for the penthouse, I don’t think the people that bought these flats were sitting next to you on the tube, but you may find them in the shops you’re about to visit!

2. Now turn right and cross the street for Harvey Nichols. You’ll feel absolutely fabulous (sorry – it was the mainstay of every Absolutely Fabulous episode!) after you’ve picked up some of their exclusive and up-to-the-minute offerings. And even better if you stop for a drink on the fifth floor – admire the other fashionistas at the bar, café or restaurant.

Harvey Nichols' iconic clock

3. Now, go back on yourself, past the tube and down Brompton Road. You’ll see a ginormous Burberrys across the street on the corner. Pop in for some traditional and timeless gorgeousness.

4. When you’ve had your fill of trenchcoats, get back on Brompton Road and walk for about three more minutes and you’ll hit Harrods. Get past the throngs buying the distinctive green, shamelessly branded items and check out the amazing food hall, toy department and acres of fashion. Don’t miss the windows if you’re there at Christmas.

5. You’re probably looking too fabulous and carrying too many bags to make a quick detour into Hyde Park, so save that for another day and head back to Knightsbridge tube. If your credit card company’s anti-fraud department hasn’t already put a hold on your card, don’t leave the area yet: turn right onto Sloane Street just after the Knightsbridge tube station (and be tempted by the likes of Gucci, La Perla, and Chanel) then continue down the road until you find the tube entrance on the other side of Sloane Square.

Emma Killick

Emma Killick is a contributor to The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome (HarperCollins). Images Emma Killick and Wikimedia Commons.

How much more fun can this toddler have, on his big day out on Brighton Pier? His mum, Faith Bleasdale is the author of several bestselling novels and her writing has also appeared in the Girls’ Night In series (Penguin) and in The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome.

I am a bit of a champion of the traditional British seaside holiday. I am a little nostalgic about them and also think that in the current economic climate it makes sense for us to strip back to basics. It might not have the glamour of the Caribbean but the English seaside holiday has a lot going for it. Not just sticks of rock, donkeys & ‘kiss me quick’ hats, but fun for all the family which can be affordable too.

My toddler, Xavier and I recently took a weekend break to Brighton in November. Of course it was cold – not a traditional seaside time of year  - but it was also sunny and dry, so the toddler and I decided to go to see what fun Brighton Pier had to offer.

The Pier’s history dates back to 1823 but of course today it’s a very different entity, now. At one point there was a concert hall, and in 1932 the Pier had its own Dodgems and Big Wheel. If you want to know more, you can read all about its history here.

As Xavier and I made our way onto the pier, it really was breathtaking. It’s a beautiful construction, and  it all feels like walking back in time – although as the neon flashing lights of the amusements begin to beckon us I came back to the present.

Xavier loved the loud music and the flashing lights of the amusement arcades and as we played some of the penny machines, I tried to ignore the fact that I might have just introduced my three-year-old son to gambling!

We moved through to the outdoor fairground rides and luckily there were height restrictions so the scariest ride I had to go on was a Carousel – with  an amazing view of the sea. My child shrieked with infectious delight as we spun around slowly. The rides were far from expensive and we were occupied for an hour for about £10.00.

I recognise that this was because my child was only three, but also you could easily restrict your child to one ride each and spend the rest of the time looking at the view, and running along the pier watching the seagulls swooping which Xavier also enjoyed doing.

We met a friend and headed to Palm Court for fish and chips. Of course no visit to any British seaside resort is complete without the traditional British fare. Palm Court is a lovely restaurant situated on the pier (by no means the only place to eat but the most comfortable in my opinion), and the food was delicious and again relatively inexpensive. Portions were generous & Xavier tucked into his heartily (as did we), but we had the added bonus of a decent glass of Champagne to wash it down. The staff were friendly, my child ate an enormous lunch and had ice cream all the while with a view of the sea.

After lunch we ran (the toddler), and walked (my friend and I, with our tartan Vivienne Westwood bags strapped to the pram), on the pier again. This time Xavier chased the seagulls while I had a slight panic about him or me getting pecked – however, it was a lovely, slightly old-fashioned way to spend a day. He loved every minute of it!

Brighton itself is a lovely city, much featured in our book, The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome, so if you are looking for somewhere to go, then check it out, as Xavier and I highly recommend it.

GETTING THERE

Brighton can be reached by train (in about an hour) from Victoria Station in central London. Advance fares can be as low as under £10 return, off-peak. 

Music: Come Fly With Me  by Elia Bel at Foghorn Records.

Emma Killick throws her agenda out of the window and strolls around Barcelona. It all starts when you get off the train at Fontana station. Images: Wikimedia Commons.

But first, a siesta...

Usually when I visit a new city, top of my list of priorities is making sure I hit all the landmark buildings and museums. In Barcelona, I seem to have been distracted. The food, bars, shops and sea just got in the way.

Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia and Casa Mila are must sees, the parks are beautiful and the Picasso Museum is worth a visit; but the ancient little streets of Barri Gotic, the grand avenues of Eixample and the quirky tiny roads of the Gracia are just as inspiring and interesting.

Because so much wonderful architecture is interspersed throughout the city, I still felt like I was getting my fill of culture, while I was actually fervently shopping, eating and drinking.

So, we threw my agenda out the window and instead just strolled, stopping for food and drink when we needed a break. Each new area we explored became our favourite. The service and friendliness of people was extraordinary. Oh and the swimming was glorious (hoorah for 30 degrees in mid-September!) – the sea was warm, the beach was clean and quiet, and the string of beachfront bars and restaurants provided the sustenance needed after all that lying around on the beach.

Here are my tips to help you have a fab time in Barcelona, although I really don’t think you can go wrong as most of the city is a visual and gastronomic delight. You could spend a day, or at least half a day, in each of the areas below.

Gracia Quarter

Our concierge gave us a great recommendation that I’d like to pass along: start at the Fontana metro station and simply meander your way through the Gracia district.

If you head in a south east direction, you’ll end up only a short walk from Sagrada Familia, while south, after crossing Avenida Diagonal, you’ll reach Casa Mila. But don’t hurry through the Gracia district: apart from various plazas where you’ll find plenty of places offering tapas and cervezas (we liked Placa del Sol for people watching and a touch of tapas), this district has an edgy feel with a wide variety of small artisan stores – quirky boutiques, specialty tea and wine shops – mixed in with traditional barbers and dusty electrical shops. Most stores in this area close for a siesta.

Eat, shop, eat, eat

And for something really special you have to try Con Gracia restaurant. And I mean really special. The space is tiny – about 20 covers – and simply but beautifully designed. The two front of house staff had the perfect combination of food knowledge, attention to detail, sense of humour, and knew when to leave you alone.

The food was incredible and very reasonable for the quality (€49 for 5 courses). There are only two options on the menu: the “surprise” or the “tradition”. The “tradition” isn’t that traditional, but if you are going for a special experience, you may as well trust the chef and go for the “surprise” (they’ll ask if there is anything you won’t eat and modify the menu accordingly).

You can also opt for the surprise wine tasting, where the sommelier picks the wine and gives you a glass to match each course – again, highly recommended and very good value (an extra €25 per person). I could rave about this restaurant for weeks on end, but here are the highlights of the highlights: a foie gras and miso soup with truffle oil that, somehow, was silky and viscous, subtle and rich; and the most amazing and perfectly matched wines, including a thick figgy dessert wine (called Alvear Pedro Ximénez Montilla-Moriles Solera) to go with the beautiful rich chocolate birthday cake they made especially for me.

Michelin star-like in quality and style, but without pretension (the waitress ran down the winding back streets to find us after we left the restaurant without taking the rest of the cake!), this restaurant is one of the most memorable experiences I’ve ever had. Con Gracia Restaurante, Martinez de la Rosa 8, (www.congracia.es), +34 932 380201 (reservations are essential).

 Eixample Quarter

 Casa Mila, Sagrada Familia, and several other Gaudi buildings are in this area. The outside of Sagrada Familia won’t disappoint, but the inside might. My partner bluntly said “what a rip off”. We all know the church is unfinished, but it is a little weird to be restricted to walking straight through the transept as the rest of the interior is filled with bulldozers and men donning hard hats and tool belts. (See here  for further information and for total Gaudi fans, join the Gaudi Club.

This part of town is also known for shopping. Rambla Catalunya (better known as “Las Ramblas”) is a long boulevard filled with shops and restaurants, with most restaurants setting up outside eating areas in the centre of the boulevard. The shopping on this street is mostly your standard high street fare, with some touristy stuff thrown in, but there are streets that run off and parallel to Las Ramblas that offer a wide variety of goods (try Placa Catalunya, Passeig de Gràcia, Diagonal, and Avinguda del Portal de l’Angel).

Kate Moss loves Spanish brand Mango. So does Spain.

If you are taking a rest between the shopping and the sightseeing, there’s a nice little friendly bar called Gran Foc, Roger de Lluria 23, (www.granfoc.com), + 34 933 043020 (yeah, it was the name that got us to stop). For fabulous tapas, try Ciudad Comtal, Rambla de Catalunya 18. The restaurant is huge and extremely busy, but it is busy for good reason. If you can squeeze up to the bar, check out the amazing array of tapas on display. We had giant mushrooms with ham that was earthy, salty and juicy. The salted and fried peppers (pimentos) were also excellent here. I do need to explain that there’s a system at Ciudad Comtal. It’s complicated, but worth deciphering because the food is fantastic. Read this to avoid the bewilderment we suffered for more than half and hour:

- They don’t take reservations.

- For dinner, arrive before 8:30 or after 10:30 if you don’t want to wait for a long time.

- Don’t walk straight up to the outside eating area in the middle of the boulevard to try and get a table: the waiters will ignore you.

- Also ignore the bar that has beer taps that opens directly to the street. Seems like an obvious place to get a drink and ask for a table. Wrong. It is for the waiters to use to serve those already seated.

- For a table: go inside and to the left behind the bar that has the beer taps and you’ll spot a hostess behind a podium. Make your way toward her. When your table is ready, she’ll look for you or shout out your name unceremoniously.

- For a drink: elbow your way toward the bar inside with all the tapas on it and shout out what you want when the bartender is vaguely looking in your direction – in Spanish is better but English won’t be ignored.

- Be pushy. If you aren’t you’ll be hungry and thirsty.

Once you’ve mastered this, you can then stand outside enjoying a drink and giving advice to confused-looking would-be diners. It is very satisfying!

 Barri Gotic Quarter

The Barrí Gotic is the Roman centre of Barcelona, with narrow cobbled streets housing antique shops, small bookstores and young fashion designers.

You’ll find a treat of a bar here too: 4 Gats – also a favourite with Holiday Goddess editor Tamara Pitelen. The Four Cats is an historical and memorable place. Unlike Tamara, we went late at night but it was still deserted. We hovered over a couple of chairs, but a smiling bartender directed us to a table that was close to the bar, saying that it was the best seat because we would be able to hear the live music coming in from the restaurant. I loved everything about this place: the paintings, the tiles, the friendly service. It felt like visiting an old friend. 4 Gats, Carrer Montsio (just off Avinguda del Portal de l”Angel), (http://www.4gats.com/) +34 933 024140.

Platja de la Barceloneta

For a lovely sea break, head to Platja de la Barceloneta. We were lucky enough to stay in the Hotel Arts Barcelona, Carrer de la Marina 19-21, (www.hotelartsbarcelona.com), +34 932 211000. The rooms were modern and stylish with one of the most sumptuous beds I’ve ever slept in, the service was great (again!), and the flowers in the lobby were spectacular and bring flower arranging to a whole new level. The big fish sculpture (the “peix”) between the hotel and the beach is typical Gehry: easily identifiable, amazing from a distance and up close, and constantly interesting because of its seemingly changing colour throughout the day.

The hotel and the big fish are next to the “new” marina – all of it built for the 1992 Olympics. The beaches are gorgeous and underneath Gehry’s peix are a variety of ginormous and extravagantly decorated restaurants, bars and clubs on Passeig Maritim de la Barceloneta. The best way to get to these eateries is via the beach: walk to the end of Carrer de la Marina and you’ll see a decked boulevard at the back of the beach. They all have a relatively small covered area facing the beach and then a vast other-worldly inside. We liked Carpe Diem Lounge Club, Passeig Marítim 32, (http://www.cdlcbarcelona.com) +34 932 240470, done in an Asian theme with comfy seating. The drinks were great and – guess what? – the service came with a smile…

Emma Killick is a contributor to The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide

Audrey Hepburn’s little black dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Marilyn Monroe’s iconic Some Like It Hot frock are just two precious Hollywood costumes destined for London in October 2012, in an amazing new exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Hollywood Costume, sponsored by Harry Winston, runs from October 28th through January 27th 2013.

Meryl Streep’s wardrobe from The Iron Lady is also on display. As Streep says, “The clothes are half the battle in creating the character.”

Also at the Victoria and Albert Museum -

Dorothy’s gingham pinafore dress from The Wizard of Oz.

And incredibly, Scarlett O’Hara’s green ‘curtains’ dress from Gone With the Wind. And an in-depth look at Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra wardrobe…

Four  key director/designer pairings are explored in the exhibition: Alfred Hitchcock and Edith
Head who worked together on 11 films including The Birds (1963); Tim Burton and Colleen
Atwood whose nine films together have spanned Edward Scissorhands (1990) to Alice in
Wonderland (2010); Martin Scorsese and Sandy Powell who have teamed on films from Gangs
of New York (2002) to the recent Hugo (2011); and Mike Nichols and Ann Roth who have
worked together for almost 30 years from Silkwood (1983) to Closer (2004).

Book your tickets to London now…For more on the joys of the Victoria and Albert Museum, see  The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome, published by HarperCollins.

(Images Wikimedia Commons.)

Emma Killick wrote about her favourite Paris art galleries in The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide. This is her beginner’s ‘Before you go’ introduction to the city.

The Handbag Guide

The Metro Buy a book of Metro tickets (“un carnet”) at any Metro ticket window or machine (around €12 for 10 journeys).

Avoid the Paris Pass and the Paris Visite unless you are going to be zooming through museums and using public transport at a joyless rate.

 Museums Only buy the Paris Museum Pass if you plan to visit the most popular museums because it lets you skip the queues but won’t necessarily save you money. Order in advance and have them delivered before you leave at http://en.parisinfo.com.

Parlez Francais Parisians aren’t rude, you just need to try a little French. Bring a small phrasebook, use what’s generally written on the first two pages, and say it with a smile.

 Thirsty? To drink like the French, only have milk with your coffee before noon, after that it’s espressos all the way. Have an aperitif before your meal. Try a pastis (the collective for all aniseed-based drinks), a kir (white wine with a dash of blackcurrant), or a kir royale (champagne instead of white wine).

 Hungry?  “Le menu” is the daily special not the menu (that’s ”la carte”). Often written on a board or on one side of “la carte”, it is a cheaper way of trying a few courses (and taking the guess work out of ordering). If there are certain things you aren’t keen on eating (duck stomach, anyone?) and your French isn’t good, learn the words for food you don’t like, rather than trying to learn everything you do. (By the way the word is gésiers.)

So what exactly is a free porridge UK holiday?

Old-fashioned porridge holidays!

Well, it does what it says on the packet of oats. And it’s retro-style fun.  If you book a cosy campervan for the weekend (only £69 over any winter Saturday-Sunday booking) and return it to its London or Edinburgh collection point, Wicked Campers will contribute a weekend’s worth of free breakfast porridge from Rude Health. The uber-low £69 price includes insurance for one driver, over 21 years, for travel within the UK and Ireland.

Handpick the campervan you want and find out more about the deal at Wicked Campers.

To book  email info@wickedcampers.co.uk with the type of van you’re after (multi or two-seater) and the dates of the weekend you would like and they will send through a booking link.

Porridge Cairn (Wikimedia Commons)

If you are collecting your weekend campervan from London drive it away after 6pm to avoid the additional £10 congestion charge. Looking for somewhere to holiday after breakfast? Try Porridge Cairn (pictured) or the legendary Porridge Pot Alley.

Holiday Goddess Video – Hotel Lafayette, Paris (From well under US/AUS $50 per night).

A glass of champagne in a Paris cafe for Valentine’s Day has never been this cheap. As the Euro plunges to record lows against the American and Australian dollar in time for 2012, women will spend less than ever before, to see the Louvre (from a fifty-buck, one-star hotel). Then there are hotels well under AUD/US$50 like Hotel Lafayette.

Illustration Anna Johnson

Airfares to Paris from the USA and Australia in particular, are just silly, compared to prices last summer, or even in 2010. American travellers are really celebrating. But even Australians, who have long been kept from Paris by high fares and expensive hotels, stand to gain. Sydney to London is now well under AUD$2000 return on major airlines in February (add on chic, comfortable Eurostar London-Paris return train fares for around AUD$150 and you’ll be there in time for breakfast.)
Staying on in Europe? The European Credit Crunch isn’t ending any time soon. But then, the Louvre isn’t going anywhere either. And it’s just stops away from Louis Blanc station, right near the cheapie-chic Hotel Lafayette, in our video.

The Louvre is stops away from a bargainista hotel

There is also good news if you can book months ahead, on European hotels and airlines who want your dollars now. Don’t forget seriously cheap Irish airlines which can take you to Dublin, then onto Paris a day or two later.
But back to that one-star hotel you can see in our video. It’s called Hotel Lafayette and it’s a short walk from the Eurostar terminal, at the Paris Nord train station (also known as Gare du Nord). It is now well under US/AUD$50 a night for a double bed with shared bathroom (though on a second visit, we were offered an en suite bathroom, within the room).

British Goddesses are in an even happier position – not only is Eurostar a bargainista (below £70) train ride from where you live, you can stay at Hotel Lafayette without jetlag. Fear not the one-star experience, goddess! In Paris, it will typically offer all the charm you expect from the French.  A classic one-star Paris hotel has bar soap, scratchy towels, a sink within the room, a pretty wardrobe, big mirror, plush-looking bed and sweet retro chair. No breakfast. You’ll use the same loo and bathroom as everyone else on the same floor, but if you go off-peak (February is definitely off-peak) then you may get lucky and find you have the floor to yourself.

Going out for breakfast? It’s steps away from Hotel Lafayette, and you are spoiled for choice. The hotel is close to a clutch of old-school French cafes near Paris Nord (also called Gare du Nord) train station, and the omelettes, croissants and coffee are great. If the difference between you going to Paris (or not) is the high price of hotels, then just do it. Are you here to experience The Louvre,or to walk around your hotel room admiring the mini-bar? There is no plastic card to swipe (and go wrong, or forget) at the typical one-star. Just an old-fashioned key, and  bolts which work from the inside.

Music: Airborn by Kolliope. To hear more music by Kolliope visit foghornrecords.net To read more about saving a fortune in Paris, buy The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome at Booktopia.

Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide editor Andreina Cordani, tries the art of vintage shopping in London and finds some happy hunting grounds – as well as boutiques most London visitors never see.

Absolutely vintage

Celebrities make the vintage look seem so easy – think vintage and you think Kate Moss falling out of a nightclub wearing an exquisite satin gown, or fellow supermodel Agyness Deyn pairing designer buys with cute thrift store accessories. But – surprise surprise – reality is a bit different to celeb-land. Seeking out genuinely gorgeous vintage finds can take time, dedication and the single mindedness of a Biba-dress-seeking missile.

That said, once you know the right places to go, the whole thing becomes a lot more fun, and some of the vintage stores in London provide such a great shopping experience that they put some of our high street chains to shame. So sharpen your elbows, dive in and prepare to rummage…

 Go East

East London is the unofficial vintage capital of London. My fashionista friends swear by Spitalfields Flea Market on a Thursday morning for fashion finds as well as homeware and other collectables. There’s also a pop-up vintage market on Brick Lane at the weekends, but it’s also worth turning off Brick Lane and following the signs to Beyond Retro on Cheshire Street as it’s a beautiful, well laid out store.

The jewel in the vintage crown in the East has to be Blondie, though, on Commercial Street near Spitalfields.

Shoe nirvana

As soon as you walk into it you know it’s different – there’s no ‘vintage smell’ because the clothes have been laundered and pressed – you won’t find missing buttons or broken zips here.

Blondie

What you will find is plenty of designer labels and a nice selection of handbags and shoes. It’s not what you’d call a particularly thrifty thrift store, but it’s still affordable if you fall in love with something, and there’s plenty of loveable stuff there. Around the corner is Absolute Vintage – run by the same company as Blondie but less exclusive and more jumble sale – it’s rammed with stuff and often yields a hidden treasure (as with all vintage stores, count the buttons, check the seams etc before you buy.) Both stores have a sofa area for bored men to sit in and play with their mobile phones while their women try things on…

Rock and shop

For a cool and low key rock’n'roll experience, try the Wills-Moody jumble sale at The Lexington.  Held on occasional Sundays from noon to 5pm, it’s based in a music venue over the main pub, with DJs and a distinctly hungover clientele who were clearly up late at a gig the night before. You’ll find vintage clothes, plus a mix of books, vinyl, CDs and quality bric-a-brac, then you can grab a roast Sunday lunch downstairs. The website has sale dates.

Magic markets

Camden Market is the most obvious stop-off point, and it does have a huge selection of vintage stores, but on the downside every single tourist in the world heads there on a Saturday afternoon which makes it hard to even walk up the street from Camden tube. Go there, see it, but be prepared to find a mix of super and scuzzy.

 Portobello Market  can also get a little bit rammed – get there early on a Friday morning and head for the Portobello Green end of things to stay ahead of the crowd. A prettier experience might be Columbia Road flower market on a Sunday morning – stroll through the gorgeous flora before browsing through a good selection of vintage stores.

And if you’re lucky enough to be in town at the right time, try Clerkenwell Vintage Fashion Fair.

West End pearls

Purists might prefer the scene out East, but if you’re whirling into London on a long weekend and don’t want to stray too far from central London, a little enclave of vintage stores is growing up around Soho, close to the main shopping district in Oxford Street. Absolute Vintage has an offshoot in Berwick Street, and further along you’ll find a few more stores, including Bang Bang Clothing Exchange – there’s not as much stock to rummage through but it’s good for nearly-new High Street and designer. Stock in there is a little thinner than in other places, but it’s great for clean nearly-new clothes in good condition. Beyond Retro also has a store on nearby Great Marlborough Street, just near Liberty department store.

Nearest train/tube stations: Oxford Circus and Leicester Square.

Destination shopping

For real vintage aficionados, a visit to the wonderland that is Mischka on Middle Lane in Crouch End is a must even if it means catching the tedious W7 Bus from Finsbury Park tube. The owner, Liz, is a legend, beloved of stylists and their celeb clients alike. She sources carefully and you’ll find anything there, from Victorian curios and fabulous Ossie Clarke from the 1970s. Another place of pilgrimage is Pop Boutique in Monmouth Street, Covent Garden – an old established brand which imports lots of kooky American stuff, and keeps everything laundered and in good condition.

What are you waiting for? Go forth and seek gorgeousness…

Images: Andreina Cordani

With its magical mosques, decadent palaces, harems, spice-filled markets and bazaars, Istanbul is a city of sensual delights where dipping your toe in the waters of a traditional Turkish bath (hamam) is a quintessential experience for any holiday goddess.

Dating back hundreds of years, the hamam was to the Ottomans what the day spa is to the modern goddess – a place to bathe, relax, be pampered and gather with other women. Today, modern hamams are scattered throughout the city, but the historic hamams built by the sultans to serve the imperial mosques and the ritual cleansing dictates of the Koran are beautiful examples of the kind of breathtaking marble work and rich decoration that only Islamic architecture can do.

But a trip to the ‘hamami’ (in the local lingo) can be intimidating if you don’t know what to expect. For a start, it’s not a place for the prudish, but its worth baring your breasts and a bit of your soul for the indulgence.

Based on my experience at the famous, you can expect:

• Nudity, but it’s not mandatory. If you feel uncomfortable being completely starkers, there’s nothing wrong with wearing a g-string or bikini.
• There’s separate baths for men and women. In days of old, the punishment for men found in the women’s baths was death! These days, men folk may get away with a surly chastising by lady masseurs, but the better option is to go your separate ways and meet up for a tea in the café afterwards.
• When you enter the women’s area you’ll come to a lounge area where you chose what you’d like from the menu – ranging from a self-service steam through to the full exfoliating scrub, shampoo and massage. (If you are opting for an hour massage, allow two hours for the full steam, treatment and relaxation afterwards). You’ll be given a key for your own lockable dressing room, which also serves as the ‘ticket’ and number in the queue for your treatment once you’re inside the baths.
• Once you’ve disrobed, you’ll be given a light towel to wrap yourself in before you’re escorted into the bath. The ‘baths’ are more like a big steam room in that there’s no big tubs or mineral baths. Instead, you’ll find yourself in a white-marbled room with an enormous slab in the middle covered with naked women being scrubbed and massaged by mostly buxom middle-aged Turkish ladies wearing special issue all-in-one bathers. If you don’t know where to look, look up at the beautiful domed star-studded ceiling!
• Once you’ve been steamed, vigorously scrubbed and massaged you can enjoy a rest on the divan in your dressing room before dressing and enjoying a cup of tea and a tasty snack in the café in the common areas. There’s also a shop full of hamami products (scrubbing mitts, soaps, Turkish towels and lotions).

What to bring:

• Rubber flips flops – the wooden clogs you’ll be issued with are treacherous on slippery wet floors.
• Face and body moisturizer and your own hair shampoo and conditioner. Avoid getting the shampoo treatment – it will leave your hair dry and tortured for days.

In the old city of Sultanahmet the most famous traditional baths are:

Cağaloğlu Hamamı (Prof. Kazım İsmail Gürkan Caddesi 34, tel: (212) 522 24 24)
Built as gift to the city in 1741 from Sultan Mehmet I, it is considered be one of the most astonishing architecturally. The Cağaloğlu Hamamı café is almost as the baths and Florence Nightingale, Kate Moss and Cameron Diaz are amongst the list of star-studded famous bods that have bathed here.

Çemberlitaş Hamamı (Vezirhan Caddesi 8, Çemberlitaş, tel: (212) 520 18 50)
Built in 1584, this hamam is rumoured to have been popular amongst the Sultans and is considered to be one of the most important examples of 16th century Ottoman architecture in the city.

Galatasaray Hamamı (Turnacıbaşı Sokak 24, Galatasaray, tel: (212) 252 42 42)
First built in 1481 by Sultan Bayezid II, the Galatasary hamam consist of göbektaşı, sweating and Turkish massage sections. The men’s section can be reserved for couples or groups of at least 20 people where you can watch belly dancing and taste the delicious Turkish meals near the pool in the garden.

Gorizia’s post-war watchtowers and cyclone fences remain but you can now, of course, meet the border on your own Eurozone terms: put your right foot in and shake it all about, or hop, amble or drive out of Italy without even a flash of a passport. (The Slovenian new town, Nova Gorica, on the other side is far from pretty, but its shops, bars and casinos pulse with life while the original Gorizia slumbers.) Cold War absurdity aside, this small, stately city has long been a mutable, and cannily self-assured, place, its winding inner streets awash with multi-tongued ghosts, their trade and negotiation, faith, art and war.

Palazzo Lantieri is not a hotel but a private home, the guests that came before you a ripe assortment of popes, poets and playwrights, warriors, radicals and Hapsburg royals. It’s as discreet as it is elegant, a former 14th-century fortress turned noble house unassuming behind high walls, and its owners Carolina Lantieri and Niccolò Piccolomini are jovial and generous hosts.

The bedrooms have astonishingly beautiful antiques, towering stufas and echoing parquetry floors, yet its infused with an easy, enveloping warmth. Outside is a wonderful garden, its bowers and paths modelled in the Persian style, leading to a darkly canopied apex. It’s calm and intriguingly labyrinthine, mannered but with the reassuring markers of everyday life: a wendy house, ponds with a tiny becalmed boat and the frolicking family beagle (who recently made his film debut in a Werner Herzog film we are told).

Today’s Lantieri faces are mirrored in several centuries of portraits that line the public reception rooms, but they are a family firmly of the times. Large site-specific installations by Jannis Kounellis, Jan Fabre and Michelangelo Pistoletto and works by Getulio Alviani, Giulio Paolini and Donatella Spaziani now form an integral part of the palazzo’s art collection. These contemporary works are inspired by, and continue to interact with, the objects and architecture of other eras. In the former cellars, Clementina Lantieri, Carolina’s sister, has a ceramics studio, holding classes as well as selling works known for their graceful form and jewel-like glazes.

The family can suggest places to eat in walking distance or the best dining rooms in the countryside – the local food is enthralling even if some dishes, like the dustily sweet or astringently herbal filled raviolis, and a preponderance of game, can be a jolt for those still expecting familiar Italian flavours. Dishes are often startlingly different even from the stalwartly Friulian cuisine of Udine, under an hour away, or the Venetian-influenced food of Grado, on the nearby coast. My memory, perhaps clouded by the superb (and, when here, cheap) Collio Goriziano or Colli Orientali whites, recalls first the colours of the food: all red and white and deep brown and green, seemingly the landscape writ large on the plate. Its tastes too are of the earth, rich and comforting, but also of empires and trade routes distant in time if not place. If you were to eat only one thing, though, it should be the gubana, a flaky, filled snail of a pastry. This nutty, fruity, boozy roll can be found elsewhere in eastern Friuli (and across the border too, the name coming from the Slovenian word ‘gubat’, which, loosely translated, means ‘how we roll’), but Gorizians like to claim their own as exemplar.

The city itself is not without things to see, including a magnificently-sited 13th-century castle, a blingy Baroque cathedral with Gothic chapel attached, an 18th-century synagogue and ghetto streets, their former gates garlanded with serpents and flowers, not to mention a harrowing WWI museum and various memorials to this bitterly contested front. And the afore mentioned minute-to-midnight era mementos. But there would be nothing at all wrong with making a journey here to simply go to sleep in such surrounds, and to wake to the deep green silence of the Lantieri garden.

All images © Donna Wheeler

Printemps, the most glamorous department store in Paris, may just be showing the world’s wittiest Christmas window display this year, with an army of tiny Karl Lagerfelds…

Karl Lagerfeld (the real thing) attracted a huge crowd recently, when he arrived to launch the Christmas 2011 Printemps windows with Vanessa Paradis and Eric Pfrunder (the fashion director of Chanel), along with Printemps executives.

There are 60 animated puppets over 11 windows, showing Karl Lagerfeld as photographer, designer and director – flanked by the Eiffel Tower, his own Chanel aeroplane and a suitably stylish posse of flight attendants. The Christmas windows are the work of Jean Claude Dehix, whom Parisiennes regard as seriously as any artist.

The attention to detail is perfect, with hardly a puppet string to be seen – and every hair on the faux Karl’s trademark white ponytail is in place. His suits are cut as beautifully as any couture garment, too.

If you are lucky enough to be in Paris as Christmas approaches, you can see the windows until December 31^st.  The title of this year’s display is ‘Dreams of Escaping’ and with just one trip on the Metro to Havre Caumartin, you can also escape to Karl World.

After that, you just have to find a way of squeezing past the crowds of delighted schoolchildren (Chanel fans all), but if you’d rather enjoy the windows to yourself, try Thursday night, when Printemps is open until 10pm – long after French children are in bed.

Karl Lagerfeld’s own childhood was spent, not pressed against the glass at Printemps, but admiring his mother’s “divine” celebrations, which involved weeks of planning and a 20-foot-tree, according to one interview with him. Thanks to Chanel, the spirit of a glamorous French Christmas remains (no matter what the Euro is doing).

The Chanel Christmas Windows, Printemps, 64 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris.

For more on Chanel’s Paris, read Justine Picardie’s account of Coco’s favourite haunts in our new book, The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome. Justine is the author of Coco Chanel, The Legend and the Life (HarperCollins).

Story: Jessica Adams. Video Music: Fly With Me by Elia Bel.

Some of Rome’s best picnic ingredients are at Salumeria Roscioli. Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide writer Eleonora Baldwin took us there.

One of Rome’s most impressive hamper-friendly shops is Salumeria Roscioli. The cheese and marinated vegetable side-dishes (above) are easy to pick up, en route to one of Rome’s famous hills. The shop is also a restaurant,  heaving with the thinnest, pinkest prosciutto, and the softest, sexiest cheese around.

The bread has been baked the same way here for generations – and the wine list is vast. It’s a wonderful pit-stop if you’re shopping for a picnic. And in Rome you can find a new place to picnic every day – most of them 2000 years old. If you’re lucky you might even find an old Augustan coin in the grass. Or one of Russell Crowe’s discarded gladiator sandals.

Before you climb a nearby hill for a picnic though, make sure you allow plenty of time to stop at this family-run grocer.

You might just decide to dine at Roscioli, as well as buy your bread, wine and cheese. The smell wafting from the kitchen is highly persuasive. Service is fast, polite and highly knowledgeable, and English is well-spoken. Do ask them for a glass of wine from a locally sourced vineyard as the grape regions around Rome are gaining quite a reputation.

You won’t need to actually read the wine list, though – just turn to your side, and rows of gleaming bottles from all over Europe line the wall next to your table. You will be nose to cork.

Salumeria Roscioli is a firm foodie favourite with bloggers –  partly because of the legendary Spaghetti Carbonara.

On a hot day, Salumeria Roscioli  is a lovely, dark, cool place to slink into. The raw milk cheese has been aged in caves. The pork haunches on the glass counter are just waiting to be sliced, and sampled.

The staff here will have your choice of picnic ingredients delivered to your hotel if you wish, but it’s more fun to visit, shop and think about staying to dine. Tell the taxi driver Via dei Giubbonari and look for the tempting shop window at  number 21.

For more information on Salumeria Roscioli visit their website.

For an insider’s expert view of foodie haunts in Rome, visit Eleonora Baldwin’s blog.

The Tea Cosy in Brighton is heaving with so many tributes to Princess Diana, it’s hard to find room for a cup and saucer.

This cult, word-of-mouth hit in gay-friendly Kemptown (fifteen minutes’ walk from Brighton Station) is worth the queue, though. Pick a day out of the tourist season, and you may even have two armchairs to yourself. Along with an unmatched view of a loo seat, allegedly inhabited by a well-known member of the Royal Family.

The old-fashioned advertisements for Lyons Tea, the smell of hot buttered toast, and the delicate china are hard to resist. Even the most hardened Starbucks fan (and Republican) has to give in, once the tea-pot arrives wearing a hand-knitted frock.

If the pink sign is up outside, urging you (in a very Diana-like manner) to ‘Pop in for tea’ then you’re in luck. The Tea Cosy does not keep coffee-chain opening times, though, so if it is shut when you call, remember that there are lots of other old-fashioned Brighton cafes within a few minutes’ walk.

If you’re looking for another regal alternative, then afternoon tea at Brighton Pavilion, which many admirers have called the most beautiful palace in the country, is not far away.

Princess Diana was never a resident, but Queen Victoria (whose portrait hangs in The Tea Cosy) was a frequent visitor. If you’re planning a tour of the Pavilion, remember that the tea-room is on the top floor, and also has a good selection of old-fashioned tea. Though without the hand-knitted cosies. Or the royal loo seat. The Tea Cosy, 3 George Street, Kemptown, Brighton. The Royal Pavilion, Brighton is minutes away from The Tea Cosy, in front of The North Laines. Trains run regularly to Brighton from London Victoria.

Eat, love, eat more

Welcome to the Paris chapter of The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide. What’s the fastest way to eat, love and eat more in Paris? Let our V-card inspire you.

Catch the Metro train to Chaussee d’Antin-Lafeyette. You are one minute from  Galeries Lafayette, and the OMG floor. Home of snails in tins and rosebud tea.  Next door, find Printemps department store. Laduree lies just inside.

Eating like Elizabeth David

Terrine de campagne. Tarte à l’oignon. Poulet à l’estragon. Carré de porc provençal. Omelette soufflé aux liqueurs. The secrets behind five of Elizabeth David’s most famous French recipes (with abridged, updated versions) are with foodie and writer Christopher Hirst.

Follow our Absolutely Fabulous wine expert on Twitter

If you have a question about French wine or champagne, why not Tweet comedian and wine writer Helen Lederer? Helen is an original Absolutely Fabulous cast member (she plays Catriona to Joanna Lumley’s Patsy) and a brilliantly funny comedian and writer, in her own right.

Helen on Twitter

Your Free Paris Playlist

You can download the perfect Paris playlist, the eight-track album Is This Not Paris? (named after the classic song by John Kennedy) here. This is wonderful, chilled music. Almost as sexy as Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin! To find more tracks from these artists please visit Foghorn Records.

Airborn by Kolliope

Allegria by Elia Bel

Autobahn by Bad Machines

Chariots and Limousines by Rosie Burgess

Fly With Me by Elia Bel

I’m Here by The Stoics

Is This Not Paris by John Kennedy

No Sleep by Jesse Morris and the Three Beans

Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide Paris Updates

How to be a Paris bargainista - The Catherine Max website is currently down at espacemax.com. We’ll update you as soon as we have a new link.

Notre Dame – New! The best website for Notre Dame is now http://www.cathedraledeparis.com/

It’s all about the shoes - The best website for Christian Louboutin is now www.christianlouboutin.com

There’s something about Picasso - The Picasso Museum is currently closed for renovations until Spring 2013

Can’t find the site you want? Some French websites may require www in front of them. And of course, in any travel book, addresses and phone numbers can change so please check the websites (which we monitor regularly) before you set out. Bon voyage!

London, Rome and Paris online extras are also on our site. 

Welcome to The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide London Extra.

London’s best tube-walking maps are here…

Try the alternative tube map (for walkers) from The Londonist.

You can also try this distinctly loopy walking map - with thanks to geofftech.co.uk.

Oxford Street Without a Map

Oxford Street the easy way – it all starts with the right exit at Oxford Circus train station…

Covent Garden Without a Map

And this could save you a lot of fuss too…

London’s greatest late-booking hotel websites

Wotif is a great Australian standby. Wot if we only had 30 minutes to find an AUD$100 hotel in London? We’d go here.

Last Minute UK famously finds amazing deals on Friday nights.

And don’t forget to check our own hotel booking service on this site – flash sales can sometimes reduce the cost of a three or four-star hotel  by 50%. Follow us on Twitter for Alison Carmichael Rulten’s Hotlist, which regularly features big London hotel bargains.

The Dorchester is one of the hotels on our booking site which frequently features bargainista deals – look now, and book now if so! We checked rooms at the end of November for you and found 37% off a superior double room for £510. If you snap up one of these deals and love your stay, please share your experiences with us on Twitter.

Vivienne Westwood’s London

Find a wonderful short film about Vivienne Westwood’s London here. Special thanks to her brilliant former staffer Leonie Edwards-Jones for letting us know about Dame Vivienne’s penchant for The Wallace Collection…

The No-Map Guide to Brighton – for those of you who don’t want to walk around with a flapping map or staring at a flipping app.

Playlists and downloads

Sweet Tooth chanteuse Fleurtini (pictured) and producer Gavin Hammond have nailed the sound of Soho. And Brixton. And Mayfair. Donwload their EP La Vie Anglaise, exclusively for readers of The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide, here. 

Download  the Roma Chill album – Free

Exclusively for readers of The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide, our editors  have created a relaxing music podcast to unwind to, on your Italian journey. Collect it here.

Save 30% on Hotel Eden in November

Hollywood’s Roman Home is available for around 30% less through November at our own Holiday Goddess booking site. Find out why both Nicole Kidman and Gwyneth Paltrow have checked in, and Fellini gave his interviews here.

Limited offer.

All aboard! Rome’s  best hop-on and hop-off buses

City Sightseeing 

Viator 

The Spanish Steps

A simple, lovely way to adjust to Rome on your first day. Easy to reach by train. Worth at least half a day of wandering, window shopping and coffee consumption. Read more.

Pompeii

Watch our V-card of Pompeii on our Youtube channel – Holiday Goddess.

Are you here for the erotica? When we last visited Pompeii the famous phalluses (page 279 of The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide) were looking a bit…crumbly. 

The best place to see the erotica, intact, is The Secret Museum (or Secret Cabinet) in the nearby Naples Museum. 

Why is it secret? Just one word. Goats. Fast track tickets can be purchased here. Though not too fast. This is ancient Roman pornography and it’s not to everybody’s taste. The Secret Museum, a wonderful BBC Radio 4 documentary on Pompeii pornography by historian Lynda Nead is here.  Listen to it here on the train journey from Rome .

The cats of Rome

If you love cats, then when in Rome,  visit Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, in its incredible setting – the ancient Roman ruins where Caesar was murdered. Watch the video before you go.

Looking for the real Madonna?

The Madonna del Parto is the real Madonna. Well, one of them, anyway. Pregnant mums pray to her with light-up electric candles and leave baby toys and bibs as grateful offerings. Find the Madonna del Parto at Sant ‘Agostino Church (Italian: Basilica di Sant’Agostino) at Piazza di Sant’ Agostino. It’s a short walk from the Pantheon. See the video on our YouTube channel, Holiday Goddess.

Audrey Hepburn’s Rome

Rebecca Sparrow (pictured) is an award-winning novelist and a Holiday Goddess Contributing Editor. She  is also a familiar face on the cult website for women, Mama Mia. And she’s your tour guide to Audrey Hepburn’s Rome.

Ciao Bella! Remember you can always follow us on Twitter for the best Rome hotel deals and bargainista flights.

There are three chunks of Covent Garden to explore. Allow a day to do the whole area justice!

1. If you want your horoscope done, or you’re a fan of Cath Kidston – or you just want to explore the amazing Hunter wellies collection at Office – come out of Covent Garden train station and find Marks & Spencer. Cross the road, perhaps going in, to buy yourself a pair of knickers (as recommended by Jenny Valentish in The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide). After that, just keep walking. You’re heading for Neal Street, and in the right direction for The Astrology Shop, Office shoes, Cath Kidston and many more offbeat British delights.

2. Prefer Paul Smith or Agnes B? Looking for the luxurious spa The Sanctuary, recommended by Holiday Goddess Editor Sue Ostler? When you come out of Covent Garden train station, head in the opposite direction to Marks & Spencer, and follow the crowds. Ahead of the old-looking building in front of you (the original Covent Garden market) you’ll find a network of streets on your right. Wander and ye shall find. This is life without a map, remember!

3. Need to dine, or watch buskers, or just rub the walls of a bit of London history? Then you’ll keep going in the direction of the old-looking buildings and lose yourself in there. The ice-cream is excellent.

And that’s how you lose yourself in Covent Garden, without getting lost. There are dozens of places to shop, in between the landmarks above, but we think this way you’ll never need a map. Or an app…

Oxford Street, London is full of women looking lost. And becoming lost. This is our no-map guide, which works best when read alongside The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome (HarperCollins).

1. Take the train (the tube) to Oxford Circus station. There are several exits. Choose Argyll Street.

2. Look left, then right, as you come out. On your left is Top Shop – enormous, unmissable. Allow 1-2 hours.

3. Once you’re out of Top Shop, enter the soothing space of Liberty, the most beautiful department store in London. It looks like a Tudor mansion, but inside you will find everything from designer rubber ducks to the most remarkable handbags by British designers. Allow 1-2 hours, especially if you also stop here for a cup of tea…

4.Unless you are on a specific mission to find Zara (look across the road from Top Shop and you’ll see it) it’s time to finish your selective trawl at Selfridges.

You can walk it, if you like. Or if you’re over the crowds, hop back on the Oxford Circus tube and head for Bond Street or Marble Arch, which will get you just that little bit closer to shoe heaven…

Here’s how to do Brighton without a map.

1. Find the Clock Tower. It’s a ten-minute straight walk down the hill from Brighton Station.

2. If you want fresh seafood from a stall, or the award-winning food at Due South, keep walking straight in front of the Clock Tower until you reach the beach. Turn right and keep walking – for about another ten minutes. Voila!

3. Want to shop Mac, Kiehls, Aveda, Cath Kidston and other London brands? When you get to the Clock Tower, turn left, until you see an old-fashioned sign saying The Lanes. Turn right and get happily lost.

4. Want to see The Royal Pavilion? At the Clock Tower, turn right, but keep walking past the old-fashioned Lanes sign. There, on your left, will suddenly appear the entrance to The Royal Pavilion and its Indian domes.

5. Want boho, alternative Brighton? Turn left at The Clock Tower, and almost opposite the old-fashioned Lanes sign, you’ll see a bright blue and yellow sun sign, announcing North Laine. Turn left and get happily lost. You may be an Alice in Wonderland fan, a Mod, a vintage clothing shopper or a foodie, but the North Laine leads to heaven.

When in doubt, always come back to the Clock Tower!

Anneli Knight heads to Covent Garden where some of England’s most talented opera singers perform – for coins.

Covent Garden is the performance hub of Central London, home to the majestic Royal Opera House and surrounded by a smorgasbord of theatres and galleries. It is, simply, where you go if you want to see opera, musicals, drama, comedy or dance shows while you’re visiting the city. But as well as having the choice of dress circle tickets upwards of £200, you can also see world-class performances for absolutely nothing.

The Covent Garden Market open-air performers have been intricately woven into the daily life of this part of London since the Punch and Judy puppet shows began in the square in the seventeenth century, with a reincarnation in its present form in the late 1970s. Today there are two stages – one for classical repertoire and the other for street and circus performers – offering an all-day revolving entertainment spectacle. This is not a spontaneous turf for buskers – there are rigorous auditions held for the coveted permanent licences and even casual performers must meet the highest standards.

The classical stage is in the Lower Atrium (just below the Covent Garden Market stalls) where shoppers crowd over balustrades, lured by the melodramatic bellows of live opera or the playful riff of a violin. These professional musicians are prolific performers and when not at Covent Garden can be found upon illustrious stages, among them having performed at Glastonbury Music Festival, Wembley Stadium and 10 Downing Street.

In the West Piazza, at the foot of St Paul’s Church, are the street and circus performers, ranging from the death defying feats of a semi-clad chainsaw-juggler to a tightrope walker who prances deftly between the church spires.

From high culture to high wire, it is all out in the open air at Covent Garden: going for a song.

Photo: Flickr CC: genvessel

Novelist, journalist, author and Holiday Goddess editor Karen Moline knows France well. Place des Vosges in Paris is one of her favourite haunts.

Pay your taxes and you never know what might happen. The loveliest square in Paris got its name thanks to the Vosges province, the first in France to fork over the taxes Napoleon was demanding in 1799.

If you are in Paris, wandering around the Marais section is a must-do. Especially if you walk into Place des Vosges for the first time–the most delicious way to do so is to turn off Rue Saint-Antoine onto Rue de Birague—as you will have one of those travel moments so breathtaking that the hell of endless security checkpoints will have been worth enduring just so you could end up in this spot.

Place des Vosges was originally known as the Place Royale when its construction began in 1605 under King Henri IV, who wanted a posh new palace. He knew that another palace, the Hotel de Tournelles, had been a royal residence there until the fateful day in 1559 when King Henri II was jousting during a tournament and a lance pierced his eye, with fatal results.  His distraught widow, Catherine de Medici, demanded that the building be torn down and the gardens near where her husband had fallen destroyed. So Henri took a good look at the area and then smartly insisted that the other 35 buildings follow the plan of his palace, and the result is a sensationally symmetrical square (140 x 140 meters), with slate-roofed, white-stone-trimmed red brick houses atop a ground-floor arcade.

Henri IV never had a chance to live in Place des Vosges, as he was assassinated in 1610, but many well-known others have had the good luck to snare a residence. Madame de Sevigné was born at #1 bis; the cunning Cardinal Richelieu lived at #21 from 1615 – 1627; and, if you’ve ever suffered through an interminable production of Les Mis, you can blame it on Victor Hugo, who wrote most of his novel Les Miserables while living at #6 from 1832-1848.  (That building is now a museum.)

When I lived nearby on Rue St-Paul and was too broke to have a café at any of the expensive restaurants still lining the arcade, Place des Vosges was my favorite hangout and source of inspiration. It’s one of the few public squares in Paris where you can sit on the grass without a French gorgon insisting you remove your derriere to an uncomfortable cast-iron bench. The fountains were always mesmerizing, the symmetry of the buildings always pleasing, and the crunch of feet on the perfectly aligned gravel paths surprisingly soothing. Sitting lost in reverie there will be one of the most enduring memories you’ll have of Paris.

Photo: Flickr CC: Christophe ALARY

Sue Ostler tries beautiful Skiathos off-peak and discovers the joys of GMT – Greek Maybe Time.

For an island that swells from a low-season population of 7,000 to an almighty 100,000 in the high-season, you need to plan your visit accordingly. Not everyone wants to visit in low-season but I had two good reasons: a birthday to celebrate and a generous boyfriend. So it was this, combined with an aversion to swarms of hormonal tourists and relentless humidity, that saw this Goddess sail in for an early May visit. The timing couldn’t have been better.

The place was bathed in spring sunshine and the locals fresh and flirty from their annual hiatus. The restaurateurs and bar operators were super keen for the business and happy to seduce with treats and freebies – a dish of the creamiest yoghurt slathered with dollops of honey here; a shot of Sambuca there; and please – you must try this dreamy, creamy cheese pastry. As far as tactics go, it was an effective one.

The only downside with visiting during low-season was that Sleeping Beauty had not quite woken from its slumber. As a result many queries about when the water taxis were operating, or when that fancy new Taverna was opening were met with the bog standard, “Tomorrow, tomorrow, later, next week.” We were operating in what the locals slyly referred to as GMT time – Greek Maybe Time!

But one doesn’t visit the Greek Islands in order to rush about, and as long as one is not in a terrible hurry, the island presents an incredibly idyllic chance to explore every drop dead gorgeous nook and cranny at an almost unbelievably slow pace, which during high season, one can only imagine, there is no such luxury.

Nestled within the Sporades Islands, Skiathos is famed for both its beauty, the location where much of the film Mama Mia was set; and the heaving party vibe – the Ibiza of the North West Agean Sea. Dozens upon dozens of tiny bars and taverns are dotted along the water’s edge overlooking those instantly recognisable shimmering delights from the film. Low ceilinged, white washed buildings sprawled along the boardwalk beckoned tantalisingly with low sofas and giant pastel coloured cushions; billowing with canopies, fairy lights and tea light candles the bar vista lit up the harbour for as far as the eye could see and came to life with the endless charm of the locals who pulled out all the stops in persuading you to stop, “just for one…”

We stayed at the beautiful Villa Apollon, in the Achladies area, a spacious one bedroom apartment with private patio and jaw-dropping ocean views. Located about 3 km from the main town of Skiathos and a 2 minute walk from the magical beach of Achladies down below it couldn’t have served us better.

A typical day involved waking up to a pot of heart pounding coffee and a full-size breakfast served up alfresco by our wonderful hosts Dounia and the Captain. It was difficult dragging ourselves away from the dizzying terrace views but it had to be done. Mooching across the road and down a rather steep hill it was worth it when we found Achladies which felt like our own personal beach. There we got our snooze, swim and sun-bed fix before setting off for the 30-minute jaunt into the town centre (with the regular buses on a completely irregular timetable during low-season, the only options were walking or taxi.)

Down at the Old Harbour you’ve got any choice of water sports or activities, but if you don’t feel particularly energetic, and we didn’t, you can opt to Island Hop with day-tours out to the neighbouring islands. We grabbed the opportunity to sail out to some of the world’s most picturesque and deserted beaches and gawp at the vista. We ate fresh fish, drank more vino and traced the dizzying gorgeousness as seen in Mama Mia to the amazing chapel on the rocks where the wedding ceremony actually took place. Real live film history here folks! After a taxing day of drifting sublimely, sightseeing, swimming and snorkelling, it was time to sail back into town and settle down for Happy Hour.

Ah, Happy Hour in Skiaothos – this is where the magic begins. Where the white wine, or liquid sunshine, as the locals call it, is the star of the show. Afterwards when the hunger pangs kick in, it’s time to venture back into the winding white washed heavens beyond to pick from a never ending choice of delicious food options from the ubiquitous Souvlaki hole-in-the-wall to full blown 5-star restaurants and every imaginable variety of seafood deliciousness in-between.

Visit Skiathos in high-season if you want to party your head off, or visit in low-season if you want to lose yourself in a sleepy world of pure unadulterated romance.

http://www.apolloskiathos.com

Photo: Flickr CC: j-e-s

A visit to a sexual health clinic ranks about as highly as “get mugged” or “swim in sewage” on the average travel to-do list. But Russia is not an average destination: contradiction capital of the world, this is the country where ice-swimming is considered a cure-all (but summer drafts are deemed deadly), and a Big Mac can be more coveted than caviar.

And so it is that in St Petersburg – renowned for opulent palaces, gilded cathedrals and the sumptuous Hermitage – a functioning STD surgery is home to one of history’s most peculiar relics: the preserved penis of Grigori “Mad Monk” Rasputin.

Established as a means of “relaxing” self-conscious patients, the grandly-titled Museum of Erotica is not much more than a waiting-room collection of juvenile – but snicker-worthy – novelties: boob mugs, dildos ahoy and a disconcerting painting of anthropomorphoid carrots in a steamy clinch. But for history lovers (or just those interested in the history of lovin’), the main attraction is worth the awkward shuffle past the fidgeting clientele.

While not quite as eye-catching as, say, St Petersburg’s collection of Faberge eggs, Rasputin’s jampotted family jewels nevertheless command attention. Standing (or these days, bobbing) at an impressive 30cm, this embalmed extremity was “Russia’s greatest love machine”, according to Boney M… not to mention the blue (and hot-) blooded ladies of Russia’s imperial court.

It’s not an especially cute curio – much debate has raged as to whether Rasputin’s magic wand might actually be a pickled sea cucumber – but if you like your sightseeing straight-up, Grigori’s giant is an unmissable hunk of history.

The Museum of Erotica is located at 47/11 ul. Furshtatskaya, St Petersburg (Metro stop Chernyshevskaya).

Full of ecstasy and fire? Take an online tour of other raunchy repositories of note:

* Phallalogical Museum, Iceland: phallus.is

* History of Contraception Museum, USA: case.edu/affil/skuyhistcontraception/index.html

* Sex Machines Museum, Czech Republic: sexmachinesmuseum.com

* Museum of Menstruation, USA: mum.org

* Museum of Sex, USA: museumofsex.com

* Chinese Sex Culture Sex Museum, China: www2.hu-berlin.de/sexology/CSM/index.htm

Photo courtesy of Way to Russia and St. Petersburg, Museum of Erotica

The ruins of an ancient Greek healing temple and amphitheatre have Tamara Pitelen pondering gods and Grecian bottoms.

The word ‘awesome’ is chucked about a lot, usually on things that don’t really inspire genuine awe.

Once upon a time, the word ‘awesome’ was used to describe something sublime or powerful that overwhelms a person with feelings of reverence, admiration, or fear.

These days it’s used to describe anything, eg, ‘Wow, this hazelnut-flavoured latte is awesome.’ Occasionally though, an opportunity comes along to use the word as it was originally intended. For me, such an opportunity presented itself on a visit to the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Epidavros (AKA Epidaurus).

A couple of hours drive from Athens, Epidavros in the Peloponnese region of Greece dates back to 4^th Century BC when it was the site of a well-known healing centre and a huge amphitheatre for the putting on of those famous Greek dramas. Not much remains of the healing centre but the amphitheatre is in remarkably good condition and is a large and solid reminder of how jolly clever those ancient Greeks were.

Plus the place reeks of history. Today, you can sit on the steps of this ancient amphitheatre and you know your bottom is placed in exactly the spot where ancient Greek bottoms were sat some 2,500 years ago and your eyes are scanning the same breathtaking landscape that probably looks pretty much like it did back then.

That’s awesome in itself but wait, there’s more. The amphitheatre is made up of 55 symmetrical, semi-circular rows and seats up to 14,000 people. ‘So what?’ you say. Well, back in the days before microphones and sound systems, building a theatre for an audience of thousands and making sure everyone could hear the actors was no mean feat. Epidavaros is an acoustic marvel in that respect.

This auditory phenomenon is something that every visitor today tests out. If you’re visiting with a friend, one of you climbs to the very top row of the theatre while the other stays in the middle of the stage then starts speaking, clapping, yodeling etc. To be fair, you should then swap places.

Don’t ask me how it’s done but the shape of amphitheatre carries the unamplified voice right to the very furthest corner of the audience (yes, I tested it myself, I was the one who tried running up the 55 steps to the top of the theatre,  that’s a great heart rate booster just by the way).

Apparently, the limestone seats filter out low-frequency noises like the chatter of the crowd and amplify high-frequency sounds from the people on stage. Like I said, awesome.

In fact, this place is such a wonder re its acoustics that some modern day experts can’t decide whether it’s the result of design or dumb luck. I think those clever Greek architects knew exactly what they were doing.

Just past the amphitheatre is the other reason that ancient Greeks used to flock to Epidavros, namely the healing temple – which sounds like it was something between a spa retreat and a hospital.

Only the ruins of the ancient healing centre remain today but back in its heyday, the healing centre at Epidavros was the most celebrated in the Classical world. It was built in honour of Greek god of healing, Asclepius, who was the son of Apollo, the god of music. Asclepius was reputedly born in Epidavros.

The healing centre was where the sick and infirm of ancient Greece went to seek cures for whatever ailed them. Apparently, they would first spend the night in a big sleeping hall and the god Asclepius would visit them in their dreams to tell them how to get better, the next day the patient would describe these dreams to a priest who’d advise on a cure.

Like any modern day spa, there was a gymnasium and spring water baths although records from the time also suggest surgeries were carried out under anesthesia of the day such as opium. Happily unlike a modern day spa however, the use of snakes was common in healing rituals, being considered sacred animals. A kind of ‘take two asps and call me in the morning’.

But then again, maybe it still works…

Photo: Flickr CC: Jimmy Baikovicius

Heartsick over the Love Parade breakup? Quaking in your gumboots at the thought of Beyonce headlining Glastonbury? This (northern) summer, fling your festival net a little wider and get Balkans-bound for en-masse music madness. Tamara Sheward goes backstage at Serbia’s EXIT Festival.

Most commonly referred to in sentences like “But isn’t it, like, freezing there?” (note: it’s Serbia, not Siberia) and “But isn’t there, like, a war there?” (note: not for the last 12 years, no), Serbia doesn’t naturally spring to mind when one thinks “knees-up goodtimes”… but it should. The country is home to an extroverted (and it must be said, spunky) population, a lively cultural-n-quaffing scene, and its capital Belgrade has been billed by Lonely Planet as the world’s top party destination. But it’s in Serbia’s ‘second city’, Novi Sad, where they really know how to rock the (erstwhile) Bloc. Enter, EXIT.

What began as a 100-day-long protest aimed at booting out prima-despot Slobodan Milosevic — hence the name — has become southeastern Europe’s largest and most frenetic music festival. Held in the otherwise austere surrounds of a 17th century fortress, EXIT is a genre-defying, (cheap) booze-drenched, 25-stage mayhemfest that’s hosted the likes of Chemical Brothers, Faith No More, Beastie Boys and Gogol Bordello… not to mention an annual 150,000 rakija-fuelled revellers from around the world.

Making merry from July 7-10, this year’s EXIT line-up thus far includes Grinderman, Portishead, Pulp, Underworld and Arcade Fire. A four-day festival pass starts at 105 Euro: see www.exitfest.org for ticketing and camping/accommodation details.

Fallen under a Slavic spell? Once EXIT has folded its tents, hit the ulica and check out these only-in-Serbia shindigs:

Guca Trumpet Festival, August 10-14: Yes, trumpet. But forget your dorky high-school brass band: this is ear-splitting hedonism at its most raucous. www.guca.rs

Belgrade Beer Festival, August 17-21:  Say zhiveli! (cheers) with 500,000 of your new best friends over 80 different brands of beer. www.belgradebeerfest.com

World Testicle Cooking Championships, late August: For travellers who like to go a little nuts. www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/aug/29/serbia-world-testicle-cooking-championship

Journalist and editor Andreina Cordani knows Malta well, from Fungus Rock to the Blue Lagoon. This is her insider guide.

Over 4,000 years ago, before the pyramids and when Stonehenge was just a twinkle in a druid’s eye, the islanders of Malta created small statues of women. They have curves, big shapely bottoms, a heck of a bosom, and to this day we’re still not certain exactly why they were made. But there’s something appealing, female friendly and altogether goddess-like about Malta’s mysterious “Fat Ladies” (even if most of them are minus their heads!)

Part British, part Italian, part Arabic – Malta is an independent country just 316 square kilometres across, with its own language, government and culture. It’s been visited (or invaded) by most of Europe over the centuries. You’ll see shades of Sicily, echoes of Morocco and a dash of the English seaside as well as the mysterious ancient culture that’s been there for aeons. Valletta, the teeny tiny capital city, is the best place to base yourself – but it’s worth hiring a car or hopping on a bus to see the rest of the islands, too.

Valletta

Walk through the narrow winding streets, explore dozens of churches and gaze at the curvy ladies in the National Museum of Archaology on Republic Street, then take in tea and a pastry at Cafe Cordina in the town’s main square. The capital city feels like a small town – bits of it are surprisingly down at heel, other parts have been renovated, and it’s surrounded by centuries-old fortress walls.

Where to stay

Malta’s most recent invasion was by British tourists in the 1970s and 1980s, so the bay opposite Valletta, Sliema, is studded with none-too-subtle hotels. But it’s worth staying there – the sights of Valletta are a quick ferry or bus ride away, and it’s just along from the trendier are of St Julians, where Maltese and visitors alike head for an evening stroll or to take their pick of the bars, restaurants and clubs.

Food

Nowhere does Malta’s multiple invasions show more than in the cuisine. The pizzas are delicious (try La Cave in Pjazza Kastilja, Valletta) and arancini (risotto rice balls with mozzarella in the middle) make a great Italian-style lunchtime snack. But they also sell pastizzi, which are like small pasties, filled with ricotta cheese or mushy peas – very cheap, very yummy. The Maltese make their own wines and even have their own soft drink, Kinnie, which is worth a taste. Their official favourite dish, though, is hare The islands’ official favourite dish, though, is fenek, or rabbit.

Get the blues

Beach addicts need to get away from Valletta and Sliema. The smaller islands of Gozo and Comino have gorgeous beaches, including the flagship Blue Lagoon – a beautiful turquoise-watered stretch of shore which can get rammed with people in summertime. Another great place to swim and catch some rays is Golden Bay, and there’s great diving and snorkelling to be had all around the island, especially at the delightfully named Fungus Rock.

Prehistory mystery

Then there’s the ruins. They’re old – really old – and mysterious. Take a trip out of Valletta to Hagar Qim. Although the prehistoric atmosphere is spoiled a little bit by the weatherproof covering, it’s a beautiful place to wander around and use your imagination. Hypogeum and Tarxien temples are also great places to visit.

Remember…

Malta is a staunchly Catholic country, which means on Sundays things can get very quiet, and on religious festival days, things can get very loud! On Good Friday the streets are rammed with people as a parade of people dressed as Roman soldiers and apostles moves through the streets, carrying statues of Jesus – on Easter Sunday the whole parade starts again.

Author, travel writer, editor and Lonely Planet TV presenter Tamara Sheward goes the whole hog with a tour of some of the world’s most sinful foods.

Let’s face it: we don’t travel to lose weight. Culture = cuisine, and if lard, butter or triple-cheese are on the national menu… well, it’d be gauche not to tuck in. Strap on your bib and check out five decadent dishes from around the globe.

Salo: Ukraine’s national dish isn’t just loaded with fat: it IS fat. Melty little hunks of spiced, salty pork fatback (okay then, “lard”) best spread over rye bread, salo is unholy, immoral and unspeakably fattening. It is also eye-gougingly delicious. Enjoy as a zakuska (appetiser) with bucketloads of vodka: it’ll help you forget the diabolical amount of calories you’re sucking down.

Chicken Parma: Australia is famous for “bad” foods, like the dubiously iconic meat pie and the “don’t ask, don’t tell” mystery sticks that are sausage rolls. But if a true blue belly-filler is what you’re hankering for, step away from the servo and stumble into the pub for this uniquely ‘straylian take on the Italian parmigiana: greasy, cheesy and always served with chips. One parma to rule them all? Try the Rochester Castle Pub in Melbourne, the wonderful degenerates behind the Bogan Parma (fried schnitzel, oozing cheese, napoli sauce, bacon and double-fried egg).

Champ: “Champ” is indeed a fitting moniker for this, the king of Irish comfort food. Essentially mashed potatoes, champ stands out from the workaday smooshed spuds crowd with the addition of bitey scallions and lashings upon lashings of butter. Nothing works better to combat post-pint(s) wooziness.

Turducken: A turkey stuffed with a duck stuffed with a chicken stuffed with a pork sausage may sound like typical American over-the-toppery, but this dish harks back to the English aristocracy: the Yorkshire Christmas Pie was made of stacked turkey, goose, six types of game bird, ham and tongues. Sure, it weighs in at a whopping 3500 calories per serve, but in the land of deep-fried Kool Aid balls and bacon doughnuts, the Yank take on turducken is positively wholesome.

Supra: Not a meal but an epic feast. “Supra” means “tablecloth” in the Georgian language, a possibly ironic comment on the fact that during one of these scoff-fests, guests eat everything but. Typical supra dishes include khachapuri (bread stuffed with cheese), khinkali (slippery Georgian dumplings) and gochi (roasted suckling pig), all washed down (literal) buckets of homemade wine.

Travelling around England? Chichester has West End stars and West Sussex charm. Holiday Goddess Editor Jessica Adams explores.

Ah, Chichester. It’s hard to think of anywhere else in the world where you can check into an award-winning, Michelin-recommended hotel for around £100 (even less for a single room) – and then see award-winning British stars like Imelda Staunton and Anna Chancellor at the theatre. In good seats.

To find out what’s on at Chichester Festival Theatre and plan your weekend around it, visit www.cft.org.uk.

Chichester has bags of charm, even if you don’t stay overnight. Fishbourne Roman Palace (or what remains of it) is just minutes from the town. Vast, stunning mosaics are all that survives today, but if you are curious about the Romans, don’t miss their perfectly-preserved interior design. Discovered by accident, the palace is best-known for its enormous, beautiful mosaic of Cupid riding a dolphin.

Lots of the students who volunteered on the archaeology dig here in the 1960s fell in love while on site, and their story (told on photo boards inside the palace) is just as fascinating as the Roman history. No wonder the Rolling Stones turned up for a look when it opened!

Visit www.sussexpast.co.uk to find out more about the intriguing old palace.

The most glamorous place to stay in Chichester is The Ship Hotel, which in 2011 managed to be recommended by not only Michelin, but also Conde Nast and The Sunday Times.

It’s a listed building with a sleek, modern bar facing the street, and some luxurious rooms upstairs. I spent a very happy hour here reading all the newspapers and devouring their excellent olives.

In peak season, single and double rooms range from £87.50 for a single room and £110 for a double.  For special deals on accommodation visit www.theshiphotel.net.

One of the nicest things about Chichester is that everything you want to see  is within walking distance (even Fishbourne Palace if you are feeling energetic enough).

It suits every budget as well. You are firmly in Viyella and Jaeger country here, which means the charity shops (there are several) are heaving with labels

If you’re a fan of authentic vintage clothing, though, don’t miss One Legged Jockey, at 9 Crane Street. Look for the pile of ancient brown leather suitcases outside, and the window displays of 1960s Beatles fan magazines and straw boaters.

It’s the best shop in West Sussex to find chic retro suits, frocks, shoes, hats and bags for the annual Goodwood Revival, which in 2011 is held between September 16-18.

Goodwood is the place to come and time-travel (watching the cars is optional) as it has become an annual vintage fashion and music event, rather like a love-letter to the 1940s-1960s. It’s not mandatory to dress up, but most people do. You’ll see more scarlet lipstick and pink gloves here than you ever knew existed. And it’s true what they say – men just look better in a suit and hat, somehow.

Goodwood is about five miles from Chichester, and another good reason to come for a daycation – or a weekend staycation.

Find out more at www.goodwood.co.uk. The best option for a lady (and perhaps her chap) might be one of the Goodwood Saturday tickets at £54. Entry is by advance ticket only, booked online.

Even if you skip Goodwood, the Fishbourne Roman Palace or the theatre, this is still a lovely town to wander around for a few hours, thanks to its excellent cafes and restaurants, and stunning cathedral. If you only want to take a short trip, do check the advance fares from London at Southern Trains at www.southernrailway.com as return ticket prices can be remarkably low, off-season.

The cathedral is best-known for its gargoyles of Her Majesty the Queen and Prince Phillip. They are quite beautiful, and are among many such gargoyles in the town.

Chichester Cathedral dates from 1075. It has a window by Marc Chagall and the famous composer Gustav Holst (The Planets), is buried here. Philip Larkin’s poem, An Arundel Tomb, “What will survive of us is love,” was inspired by the tombs of Richard FitzAlan and his wife Eleanor, also here.

And after all that? It might be time for afternoon tea at the town’s resident pink cupcake palace, The Swallow Bakery.

For the best lunch in town, visit the glorious Amelie and Friends, where the gourmet salads can be customised to suit your tastes. For full details on the menu (Amelie also serves spectacular breakfast and dinner) visit www.amelieandfriends.com.

For take-home presents, drop into two very special shops. The Pallant House Gallery (which was showing Frida Kahlo paintings when I visited) has some lovely cards, designer tea-towels, bespoke matches (‘Keep Calm and Light a Candle’) and art books.

I really liked Cloth Kits, too. You might remember this funky Sussex company from the late 1960s/early 1970s, when everyone’s mum (including mine) was sold on the idea of easy-sew designer clothes and bags. Cloth Kits has no fussy paper patterns. Instead, all you have to do is snip around the outlines on the fabric, and plug in your sewing-machine. The colours and designs are retro, fresh and clean. And utterly original.

The Cloth Kits 1950s tea-dress pattern and fabric is under £50, which seems exceptional for a British designer garment (even if you do make it yourself.) Their website can be found at www.clothkits.co.uk.

Chichester should really be renamed chic-Chester at some point.

Stella McCartney went to school in Rye. Spike Milligan is buried near here. Rye’s celebrity count, per cobblestone, must be the highest of any in England.

Sensible-shoes novelist Radclyffe Hall lived here too and Tom Baker also lives nearby. The evidence is in the local charity shop, where a signed photograph of him is in the front window for £20. Don’t tell the daleks.

Rye is best visited by train – the old-fashioned way to approach a sigh-making, old-fashioned village. Take the fast train to Ashford from London St Pancras then change for the short trip to Rye.

On the train, admire all the sheep bottoms (they make a point of showing them to you, as you gaze through the carriage windows) and the stunning English countryside.
In and around the green hills and white windmills, lie the homes of the rich and famous.In the 1920s the chap of the moment was novelist E.F.Benson who wrote the Mapp and Lucia series, set in a cleverly disguised version of Rye – a fictional village called Tilling. Alexander McCall-Smith and Armistead Maupin are fans and so was Nancy Mitford.
Read one of the Benson books on the train and the village will seem even more intriguing. Based on two bitchy middle-class ladies at war with each other, it’s a tale of stolen recipes, men called Georgie, women with problems, village fetes and Sussex floods. Guided walks are available from June to September. Benson has a cult following.
Much of Rye’s literary history is centred one place – Lamb House. Benson lived there (he later became Mayor of Rye) and so did Henry James. It’s now owned by The National Trust and open to visitors. Lamb House itself is disguised as ‘Mallards’ in the book. Just look for the black door to enter literary wonderland.

The Mermaid Inn, a short walk from Lamb House, is haunted. A camera crew from Most Haunted visited a few years ago, with medium Derek Acorah and found the spirit of a man murdered by smugglers. A closed door opened on its own – on camera too.
When I dropped in, The Mermaid Inn was haunted by far too many people lining up for a drink, but there were plenty of seats near the huge fireplace, which is the size of the average London hotel room.
There is some good vintage clothes shopping in Rye. You won’t need a map – just wander around and you’ll soon trip over a hatbox in the street. Halcyon Days, on Strand Quay, is one of a number of small vintage and retro shops. High Society, close by, has secondhand Cath Kidston and Laura Ashley tea-dresses for the princely sum of £25.
It’s an extremely friendly town. People leave spare apples out from their gardens, for visitors to take from the front doorstep. And I made instant Facebook chums with Jasmine, who runs White Rabbit. It’s a lovely space with a fairy grotto near the front door, and a bargain rack at the back. The brilliantly talented photographer Ben Westwood (his mother is Vivienne Westwood) has created bespoke cards for White Rabbit, too.

Rye was once visited by Queen Elizabeth I and retains the odd Tudor building. It really belongs to Britain as she was in the 1920s, though, and perhaps the 1970s.
Rye has always been a fishing town and the seafood at Webbe’s Fish Cafe is superb. Find it at 17 Tower Street, for dinner before the train back to London.
Want to stay longer? Rye is within a train-ride of both Brighton and Canterbury, so if you want to explore the best of Sussex and Kent, this is also a tempting place to land. Prices for B&B rooms begin at £25. Story: Jessica Adams.

Holiday Goddess editor, writer and sought-after stylist Jane de Teliga goes in search of Cezanne in Aix-en-Provence.

Like a homing pigeon as soon as summer comes in Europe, I feel the urge to fly to the South of France. One would think I’d have had enough of those dusty avenues of dappled plane trees, rustic village squares and endless shops full of lavender bags by now but no there it is again – that instinctive urge to migrate South.

This summer it was Easyjet from London to Marseille. As the capital of Provence, Marseille is a great hub for exploring the South of France. The city itself has that raffish, slightly dangerous air peculiar to old seaports. It’s just not my kind of town, although I did once stay in the strangely wonderful Hotel designed by Le Corbusier, fascinating largely because it’s still in original condition. For an authentic architecture experience this is the place but I’m on a mission to find Cezanne.

Picking up a car at the airport I head straight out of there to the very picturesque town of Aix-en-Provence. It’s just 30 minutes away from Marseille and a whole other world of Provencal charm.

There are dusty plane trees galore in the hot dry streets, the grandest being the Cours Mirabeau, the main boulevard lined with restaurants, cafes and hotels. A brief encounter with our booked hotel on the Cours Mirabeau made us flee to the excellent but busy Aix Tourist Office to find another. And what a gem they suggested.

Modern hotels are generally not on my radar, however the newly renovated Hotel Cezanne was great. Though the décor of the foyer was awash with garish colour, the room itself was lovely. Small but perfectly formed, the room was a comfortable fresh cocoon with an excellent bed, proper feather pillows (not the usual rock hard French pillows), a delicious breakfast and friendly service. Yes well it did come at a price but so worth it.

The aptly named Hotel provided a perfect base to explore all things Cezanne as he was born and he died in his beloved Aix. If you want to really understand Cezanne’s paintings come to Aix.

Here you can visit the Atelier Paul Cezanne, the beautiful little studio he worked in the last years before he died in 1906. His studio is so evocative, still furnished the way he left it when he died after catching pneumonia while out painting nearby. In the large room, with its grey washed walls and huge window, you feel Cezanne’s presence powerfully.

His coats and jackets still hang in the corner of the studio and on a shelf against grey washed wall, are ranged so many of the familiar objects he used in countless still lifes. Traditional Provencal jugs, fruit platters, glass bottles and a row of grey skulls, remind us how a great artist can transform the ordinary into the extraordinary.

After the studio visit, a hot walk up the steep hill, Mont Sainte-Victoire, the mountain that Cezanne painted obsessively, is revealed suddenly in all its majesty. In a small park you can see reproductions of his famous paintings while looking across at this arresting scene. His blocky squares of paint document the sharp light, raw craggy mountainside, deep green pine trees and the ochre Provencal houses on the nearby hillsides.

Here you see why Cezanne is the ‘painter’s painter’, the man that influenced modernist art movements from cubism to abstractionism. This pilgrimage is an art experience made all the more powerful for being outside the walls of a traditional museum.

To stay in Marseille for an architectural experience:

Hotel le Corbusier

280 Boulevard Michelet

13008 Marseille

www.hotellecorbusier.com

In Aix-en-Provence:

Hotel Cezanne

40 avenue Victor Hugo

F-13100 Aix-en-Provence

www.hotelaix.com

Atelier Cezanne

9 avenue Paul Cezanne

www.atelier-cezanne.com

To book tours for three Cezanne sites, which include Cezanne’s studio, the Bibemus quarries and his childhood home Jas de Bouffan, contact:

Aix-en-Provence Tourist office

2 place du General de Gaulle

13100 Aix-en-Provence

www.aixenprovencetourism.com

Breaking News:
The Holiday Goddess Handbag Guide to Paris, London, New York and Rome is out now through HarperCollins. Buy now!

Brand New Brixton is becoming one of London’s funkiest destinations, writes Holiday Goddess editor Jessica Adams.

Riots? What riots? Within hours of the Summer 2011 troubles, locals were taking to the streets with brooms in an energetic clean-up – while the proprietress of the cult bakery Ms Cupcake (408 Coldharbour Lane) was handing out free iced cakes to local people.

A new wave of artisans, chefs, foodies, vintage boutique owners and designers has met the old wave (Brixton Market fishmongers and exotic greengrocers) squarely in the middle – in a gorgeous, restored 1930s shopping arcade, next to Brixton tube station.

Brixton Village is on Atlantic Road, in what used to be known as Granville Arcade. It’s light, bright and airy inside thanks to the high glass ceilings. Inside it’s been painted in ice-cream colours with New York-style street signs pointing the way.

Inside Brixton Village, you’ll find some wonderful retro clothing and accessory shops, and some hip designer originals. Brixton Village is full of good ideas, as well as irresistible places to stop and eat.

The original Brixton Market is just steps away, on Electric Avenue (immortalised by Eddy Grant). When you arrive in Brixton at the tube station, both will be easy to find. Follow the music. Or just follow your nose, because the smell of good, strong coffee is unmistakeable.

Brixton Market has it all. Hundreds of wigs. Plenty of delicatessens. And most tempting of all, old-fashioned fishmongers with dozens of whole trout and salmon on slabs of ice (at non-supermarket prices). Brixton Market is also the place to come for the most exotic fruit and vegetables in the city. Expect to find the freshest ginger, coconuts, lime and red hot chilli peppers by the bag.

If you’re in Brixton for lunch, make sure you bag a seat early inside Brixton Village. It offers a huge range of cafes and restaurants, but by 1.30pm on the weekend it can be hard to find a space.

Brixton Cornercopia is my favourite, and it really is on the corner of one of the Village avenues. It offers what they call ‘ultra-local food’ and when I visited in summer, they were specialising in old-fashioned British menu favourites – like their own handmade sausages and special baked beans on sourdough toast. The cooks here have also created an amazing Brixton elderberry and cassis parfait. The honey here is made by busy South London bees and the damsons come from nearby Brockwell Park.

Like so much else in Brixton Village, it’s an under-£10 menu for first courses and mains, and is thus incredibly popular, so be here at 12 noon or better, still, book from the website –

www.brixtoncornercopia.ning.com

Brixton is also the best place in London to find Afro-Caribbean food and fabric.

African Queen Fabrics Ltd takes up almost half the space in one avenue inside Brixton Village, and has a huge selection of loud, proud African material on sale – no matter if you want to create your own sarong or design a cushion cover.

Away from Brixton Village, don’t miss the cafe owned by ‘the alternative Nigella’ – the hip young cook and author Rosie Lovell, whose book Spooning With Rosie is published by Fourth Estate. Her grandmother paid for her first coffee machine and the rest is history.

Basement Jaxx are fans of Rosie’s food, and so are all the yummy mummies coming in from nearby Clapham. Rosie’s  organic-ingredient deli is at 14E Market Row.  For more on Rosie’s Deli Cafe, and some free recipes, visit www.rosielovell.co.uk.

The New Brixton is foodie-friendly and irresistible. Add a ska soundtrack from the music shops that line the market and you have a wonderful morning or afternoon escape – just a short train ride from Victoria Station in central London.

If you love cooking, then this is the place to take your Jamaican and Afro-Caribbean recipe book, and your funkiest shopping trolley. If you sew, then the vast fabric shops here are also well worth a look.

Newhaven Fort is a museum dedicated to World War One and Two, on the spot where British soldiers left for The Great War. This is also where Canadian forces left on The Dieppe Raid, on their tragic mission to France, before D-Day.

After the Second World War was over, the council purchased this ancient site for £13,000. Today, it’s a quirky and spooky place, full of long, deserted corridors and dummies wearing uniforms. There are excellent bits and pieces of World War Two memorabilia, from ancient red lipstick to childrens’ gas masks.

Newhaven Fort is a short bus or train ride from Brighton, or easily reached by car from Eastbourne, Lewes, Rye or Hastings.
Once you are in Newhaven walk towards the water, and the old-fashioned pub known as The Ark, near the local fresh fish shop. From there, it’s a lovely walk to Newhaven Fort, which is just where you’d expect it to be – high above the English Channel, with perfect binocular-view vision of possible invaders. Newhaven has always been a target, because of its position; close to France, and tantalisingly close to London.
This place is reputedly full of spirit people. Newhaven is empty now, but during the First World War it was so important to the military that it was closed to the public. It still feels rather private and isolated, even though it’s open to the public. You may be the only person here, if it’s off-season or rainy. If so, the atmosphere will be loaded. This is a strange, evocative place.
In 1942 Canadian soldiers gathered at the fort, ahead of the Dieppe Raid. This attack on Dieppe in France, then occupied by the Germans, saw almost 60% of the Canadian troops killed, wounded or captured. For many of them, Newhaven was their last glimpse of England before they died.
There is a peculiar story about the Dieppe Raid. Two days before it took place, on August 17th 1942, the clue ‘French port’ appeared in The Daily Telegraph crossword. The solution ‘Dieppe’ ran the next day. Then on the 19th, the Canadians set off. The War Office suspected the crossword had been used to pass intelligence to the Germans, although an enquiry revealed nothing.
Whatever happened, the success of D-Day, later on, was partly due to the sad lessons learned from the Canadian sacrifice in Dieppe.
Newhaven Fort also has tributes to the Land Girls – the women who became instant lady farmers during the war, even if they had office jobs in London. Led by Lady Denman, they worked not far from here, in the Sussex fields.

The land girls had to learn to love air raid shelters. Newhaven was bombed and machine-gunned almost daily by the Luftwaffe.
Inside Newhaven Fort, you can press a button and hear what the locals heard – the chilling sound of a Doodlebug, or flying bomb. They were also called buzz bombs, but they were universally feared and hated. As the Doodlebug got closer to its target, the buzz would begin, and then cut out. Moments of scarey silence would follow, before the bomb hit the ground and a massive warhead exploded.
There is also an air-raid shelter at Newhaven Fort to sit in. Once the guide closes the door, you will be in the dark, with a wall-shaking soundtrack and the occasional loud bang. Don’t ask to go in, unless you have your grandmother’s grit!

Newhaven Fort is open from March to October, and admission is £6.](Story – Jessica Adams).

The Geffrye Museum takes all the bits and pieces you’ve seen in museums and antique shops, and puts them back together to create drawing rooms, sitting rooms and living rooms – as they really were. This peaceful museum in Shoreditch, East London is also free.

Once inside you’ll see British life as it really was, over the last 400 years. Every detail is taken care of, from period magazines left on coffee tables, to the right plants placed carefully on the other side of front doors.

Some of the rooms look as if the inhabitants had just left to go out for a pint of milk (or mead). There is plenty of space to relax and read (the Geffrye has plenty of mini-libraries about interior design and collectable objects).

The wall paintings near the garden are particularly beautiful, showing eccentric rabbits trotting over the hills. Through the window you’ll see a garden like no other – yours to explore later. The Geffrye Museum has an excellent laidback restaurant, no matter if you feel like a pot of Darjeeling, a glass of wine or a bagel.

This special place also happens to be on Kingsland Road, though, which has some of London’s best and cheapest Vietnamese restaurants. So if you want to spend the morning here, good noodles are minutes away.

Visit  The Geffrye Museum from Tuesday to Saturday (10am to 5pm) or on Sundays from 12 noon to 5pm. It’s closed on Mondays (unless Bank Holiday) and shut on the usual public holidays.

The address is 136 Kingsland Road, and the Geffrye Museum is directly in front of Hoxton Station, on the East London line. It’s easily reached by changing from London Underground (tube). Step off the train and you’re here.

The Geffrye has something for everyone. It might be a chunky 1970s television set that captivates you, or delicate wallpaper and textiles that would have made Jane Austen swoon. Or do you just want to wander around the garden and admire the clever things the Museum has done with geraniums?

If you come out of the museum gates and turn left, and start walking, you’ll soon be in hipster Shoreditch, where everyone has a band, an iPad, a bicycle and a pair of nerd glasses. There are some fabulous, tiny boutiques here, and some lovely pubs.
Keep walking along the main road, through Shoreditch, and you’ll hit buses taking you back to central London, or Liverpool Street Station, which connects you to all tube stations.

(Story – Jessica Adams)

Take the train from Charing Cross station, London and after 90 minutes with a cup of tea and a good book, you will be in retro seaside heaven – Hastings and St Leonards, Sussex.

There is a reason why so many glossy magazine editors in London have moved to Hastings and its sister town, St Leonards on Sea; it’s perfect lady heaven. Don’t worry about the modern bit after the station when you get into Hastings station – just keep walking in the direction of the glittering sea. All along the seafront, some of the most stylish and creative people in Britain have created a kind of womanly paradise.

It’s vintage, it’s organic, it’s pretty, it’s charming, it’s…endless.

Hastings is about a mile’s walk from St Leonards, so you can spend a happy day in both towns, shuttling between vintage clothing shops and witty cafes and tea-rooms. (The kind with knitted cupcakes in the window). If all else fails, grab a home-made, organic little something from Judges Bakery, on the High Street in Hastings and sit on the beach.

These two classic seaside resorts were popular with the young Queen Victoria, who put both towns on the map for generations of British travellers. Ye olde tourists all loved the West Hill Lift, which still stands today. Take the trip and you’ll end up at even older landmarks – Hastings Castle and St Clement’s Caves.

You can’t really get lost in either Hastings or St Leonards. Just head for the sea. All the wonderful shops, cafes, pubs, bakeries, old-school fish and chips (and ice-cream) are a few streets or alleyways in front.

After a decent amount of wandering in Hastings, though, you may need a drink. Follow your nose to the beach and plonk your bag down at The Royal Standard.

It’s bright red, so hard to miss. One of the most beautiful old pubs in Britain, right on the water – dating back about 300 years. Firemen drank here.

The Royal Standard is minutes from the two best shopping streets in Hastings, which meet on a corner; High Street and George Street. Most of the shops here don’t have websites, but wander round for long enough and you’ll find all the rocking horses, Liberty print curtains, jet necklaces and plain old junk that your heart desires. Plus, some outstanding new British design.

The best organised new/old shop in both towns is Little Treasures. I found a motherlode of 1970s Biba make-up here, all under £10. It’s full of beautiful, non-pricey objects, from 1980s Princess Diana shoes to sweet paste jewellery. New Brit collectables are also on sale here – Lush cushion covers with wild fox and other animal designs are easy to take home (below).

Lush!

Organic salads and good local fish are never far away in Hastings – or you may want to have lunch in St Leonards, where there are two great choices. The first is the St Leonards Post Office Tea Rooms, on the sea front, around a 15-minute walk heading right, from Hastings. It’s at 40a Marina.

The second choice in St Leonards is the amazing St Clements Restaurant, which had a fixed-price two course lunch menu for £13.50 when I called. Hastings Fishcakes followed by cod and mash in a crab cream sauce? Don’t mind if I do. You’ll find it at 3 Mercatoria.

St Leonards was created partly by the man who built Bloomsbury, which might explain its great beauty and elegance. People here have painted their houses in seaside colours – brilliant turquoise, sunny lemon, sand, pale violet – which has revived its charm.

It’s an odd place. Its oldest and best pub, The Horse and Groom, is also in Mercatoria, which sounds like a fantasy kingdom. St Leonards also has (believe it or not) a stretch called Lavatoria.
The Horse and Groom is very close to Norman Road, which has lovely cafes and more South Coast Style. It’s all about Union Jack cushion covers, seagull patterns, pink cup-cakes, green bunting, brown leather armchairs and a big shout-back to Britain as she was at the Coronation.
It’s like the 1980s with all its ugliness never happened (unless you want a Joan Collins frock for a disco). Hastings and St Leonards might be too cold for a swim, but for the ultimate escape from London, get on that train. (Story – Jessica Adams).