Heartsick over the Love Parade breakup? Quaking in your gumboots at the thought of Beyonce headlining Glastonbury? This (northern) summer, fling your festival net a little wider and get Balkans-bound for en-masse music madness. Tamara Sheward goes backstage at Serbia’s EXIT Festival.

Most commonly referred to in sentences like “But isn’t it, like, freezing there?” (note: it’s Serbia, not Siberia) and “But isn’t there, like, a war there?” (note: not for the last 12 years, no), Serbia doesn’t naturally spring to mind when one thinks “knees-up goodtimes”… but it should. The country is home to an extroverted (and it must be said, spunky) population, a lively cultural-n-quaffing scene, and its capital Belgrade has been billed by Lonely Planet as the world’s top party destination. But it’s in Serbia’s ‘second city’, Novi Sad, where they really know how to rock the (erstwhile) Bloc. Enter, EXIT.

What began as a 100-day-long protest aimed at booting out prima-despot Slobodan Milosevic — hence the name — has become southeastern Europe’s largest and most frenetic music festival. Held in the otherwise austere surrounds of a 17th century fortress, EXIT is a genre-defying, (cheap) booze-drenched, 25-stage mayhemfest that’s hosted the likes of Chemical Brothers, Faith No More, Beastie Boys and Gogol Bordello… not to mention an annual 150,000 rakija-fuelled revellers from around the world.

Making merry from July 7-10, this year’s EXIT line-up thus far includes Grinderman, Portishead, Pulp, Underworld and Arcade Fire. A four-day festival pass starts at 105 Euro: see www.exitfest.org for ticketing and camping/accommodation details.

Fallen under a Slavic spell? Once EXIT has folded its tents, hit the ulica and check out these only-in-Serbia shindigs:

Guca Trumpet Festival, August 10-14: Yes, trumpet. But forget your dorky high-school brass band: this is ear-splitting hedonism at its most raucous. www.guca.rs

Belgrade Beer Festival, August 17-21:  Say zhiveli! (cheers) with 500,000 of your new best friends over 80 different brands of beer. www.belgradebeerfest.com

World Testicle Cooking Championships, late August: For travellers who like to go a little nuts. www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/aug/29/serbia-world-testicle-cooking-championship

Illustration Anna Johnson

Next time John Galliano or Karl Lagerfeld are short of  inspiration they could think about heading for the Ethnographical Museum in Belgrade, to check out the extraordinary collection of traditional costumes from the Balkan states.

Grouped by regions, which include all the territories of the former Yugoslavia, the variety of the outfits is fascinating, including every day outfits alongside more elaborate pieces from ceremonial occasions. There are bridal headpieces festooned with peacock feathers and waistcoats covered entirely in tiny coins, which are so exotic they bring to mind the hill tribes of Thailand, rather than central Europe.

The museum opened in 1901, but systemic collecting of the traditional costumes started in the mid-19th century, for the All-Slavic Exhibition which was held in Moscow in 1867. It was then continued specifically for the museum, which now has an archive of nearly 9,000 items.

Alongside the clothes, which are displayed in groups of outfits, are wonderful photographs from the early 20th century showing people actually wearing the clothes in context, which really brings the whole display to life. There are also collections of household items, jewellery, and agricultural tools.

So if you are heading to Serbia for the Exit festival next July, or just to experience Belgrade’s crazy club scene, slot in an afternoon to soak up some of the country’s traditional culture. But one warning for those used to glamorous museum shops – the one here is a good reminder of Serbia’s more recent Communist history.

Belgrade Ethnographic Museum
Studentski trg 13
Belgrade
Serbia
381 (11) 3281-888

For current opening hours and more information visit www.etnomuzej.co.yu