Holiday Goddess » Blue Mountains

Vipassana Meditation Retreat, Blue Mountains, Australia

Kris McIntyre — Tue, 25 Nov 2008 10:43:16 +0000

Kris McIntyre tries a ten-day silent meditation retreat in The Blue Mountains, around two hours from Sydney.

A holiday from me
Finding the perfect holiday is one thing. Where to go to escape the ho-hum of daily life is a question answered with a plethora of beautiful, exotic, entertaining and adventurous places. But where do you go when it’s you that you want to get away from? Devoid of personality through lack of contact with others I found this to be the only place I have ever had the experience of escaping myself. But it’s not an easy exit by any means!

Thou shalt not speak for 10 days
When I told people I was heading off a ten-day silent meditation retreat most of them thought I’d gone mad. Not talking for any length of time is unfathomable to most. As it turned out, not talking for ten days was the easy part.

The Vibe
I chose to go to the Vipassana Meditation Centre closest to Sydney, Australia. Perched on the edge of the World Heritage–listed Blue Mountains, it has a simple beauty and serenity conducive to its purpose. On arrival, we are shown to our dormitory accommodation before the evening briefing. There are about 80 of us from all walks of life – young and old, hippies and business executives, schoolteachers and sportspeople – crammed into what after this briefing will be the male-only dining room.

The Rules
The rules for the next ten days are handed down: No contact with others, no talking, no touching, no gestures, no eye contact. No tobacco, drugs, alcohol, or other intoxicants. No yoga or physical exercise (we are allowed to take gentle walks on the grounds, but anything more than that may be disturbing to other meditators). No music, reading or writing. No jewellery or skimpy clothing. No rosary beads, crystals, charms or religious objects. No contact with the outside world. No leaving before the ten days is over (but it was inevitable that some did). No fun.

What am I here for?
“Vipassana” means “to see things as they really are”. Based on the teachings of Buddha some 2500 years ago, it is one of India’s most ancient meditation techniques whose popularity has spread throughout the world. Despite it’s Buddhist roots, it is non-denominational and non-religious, meaning anyone regardless of religion or creed can practice it. The basis of the Vipassana lies in the premise that happiness can be found by learning to observe ourselves and the events that happen to us, instead of reacting with what the information brochure refers to as “craving, aversion or ignorance”.

The Daily Grind
Our days began early: 4am to be precise. Every day was the same. Twelve hours of meditation a day and little else beside meals and rest periods before lights out at 9.30pm.
The set up is in some ways bizarre. The Meditation Hall is divided in half with separate entrances for males and females. We are each allocated our meditation space and the numerous props, including cushions and stools to make the unbearable task of sitting still for twelve hours a day partly bearable. We have three “teachers” present, but all they seem to do is turn the on/off button on the audio- and VHS-taped lectures from the head of the Vipassana movement, Mr S.N. Goenka, and elusively answer our meditation questions in private.

Days 1 to 3
During the first three days we begin the process of mastering our monkey minds by observing our breath entering and leaving the body to the drone of Goenka’s taped instructions. The boredom, constant babble of crazy thoughts in my head and the pain of sitting still is incomprehensible. Five minutes feels like five hours and the only thing to look forward to is the amazing vegetarian meals served up. I think about individually plucking the hairs on my legs to help the time pass by.

Days 4-9
By the fourth day, our minds have quietened enough to learn the Vipassana technique – observing sensations in the body and developing “equanimity” by learning not to react to them. It sounds simple, but the effects are profound. I experience flashbacks to childhood memories, dreams for my future, and huge emotional and physical releases. I also find a strange sense of self, devoid of my personality and the distractions in my daily life.

The Home-Run
Finally, on the last full day we learn the meditation of “metta prana” (or loving kindness) summed up in Goenka’s last words, “may all beings be happy”. The last day is also our shock absorber when we are allowed to speak and share our experiences before entering the real world again. Talking again feels weird and we approach each other like nervous teenagers at a high school dance.

Back in the Real World
I find myself calm and alert, but it takes a while to get used to the noise and stimulation of the city. I’ve benefited from the experience and would even do it again, but admittedly I struggle to keep up the recommended practice of meditating for two hours a day.

My advice?
Do it, but only when you feel confident you are ready for it. And if you intend to embark on this journey heed the advice of those I knew who had gone before me: “Work hard and don’t leave!” The warning seemed strange at the time, but trust me, heed it well.

FAST FACTS
Where: Vipassana Meditation Centres are located throughout the world including Europe, Australia, New Zealand, North America, Latin America, India, Asia, Africa and the Middle East.
www.dhamma.org

Bookings: You must reserve a place prior to your arrival. See the website for information about upcoming course dates.
Cost: Courses are run solely on donation, so there is no cost other than what you can and are willing to donate.
Reading: Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure by Sarah MacDonald (Broadway Books/ Random House). This entertaining account of an accidental life and spiritual quest in India gives an hilarious account of Vipassana.

How to get there
The Dhamma Bhumi Vipassana Meditation Centre is located at Blackheath, approximately 90 minutes drive west of Sydney. The Centre gives you instructions on how to get there when you reserve your place.

Australia’s July Christmas

Jessica Adams — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 04:02:30 +0000

If it’s July, then it’s definitely Christmas in The Blue Mountains, two hours from Sydney.

Story by Jessica Adams.

The Other Christmas

The Blue Mountains, just two hours from Sydney by train, is at its best during winter, when the locals celebrate Christmas in July. It often snows that month, and you can find decorated trees in the main street and Christmas pudding on several restaurant menus. You can visit the Mountains at any point in autumn or winter, though, and find hot spas, log fires and legendary cafes and restaurants. It’s colder than Sydney so take a warm coat. The Blue Mountains makes a great day trip (set off early) or a good weekend escape.

Getting there

Hire a car at every backpacker’s favourite firm – Bayswater Car Rental, www.nobirds.com.au or do it the easy way, and take the train from Central Station in Sydney to Katoomba, the Blue Mountains’ capital, for around $20 – $25. Central Station’s country trains terminal is upstairs from the suburban train platform – follow the signs. Buy supplies before you board, as there is no buffet car or trolley, and there’s no loo either, so go before you leave.

Walk to the spa

Walk along Katoomba Street (the main drag in Katoomba) to find Spa Sublime. A 30 minute aromatherapy massage was around $50 when we visited. Find them at www.spasublime.com.au. You might also like to try the hydrotherapy spa at Yindi Day Spa, on the same street. Visit www.yindi.com.au.

Secondhand bargains

Visit Curio Collectables down the end of Katoomba Street (furthest away from the train station.) If you get lucky you might find sweet beaded Chinese cardigans, lovely tweed coats, and sparkly never-worn 70s evening shoes – all for under $20. Buy a stack and post it all back to yourself. We found a signed first edition of Schindler’s Ark by Thomas Keneally when we visited – at a bargain price.

Hear your own echo

Walk to Echo Point in Katoomba to yell across the mountains (in time-honoured fashion) and hear your voice repeat-repeat-repeat. Echo Point is the place to go, if you want to find out if The Blue Mountains really are blue and if the mountains known as The Three Sisters really do like sisters. (Hint: They actually look like Bananarama on a bad day.)

Katoomba food

Find breakfast, lunch or dinner on Katoomba Street. Here’s a sample on the day we visited, taken from menus on both sides of the street – Tuscan White Bean and Vegetable Soup and Roll $9.80 at Hatters Cafe. Chicken, Avocado & Pine Nut Salad $14.50 at Cafe Zuppa. Kangaroo Fillet $24.90 at Cafe Treehorn. Three Pancakes, Yoghurt and Fresh Passionfruit $8.90 at Coffee Box.

Mes Amis, at 56-64 Waratah Street, has fabulous French food, served in a converted church. Book for dinner from Wednesday to Saturday on 4782 1558. It’s a snails and scallops restaurant with vintage wines – for more information visit www.mesamis.com.au.

Lovely Leura

And now for lovely Leura. It’s a good half-hour walk from Katoomba or you can catch a taxi for around $10 – $15 – there’s a rank outside Katoomba train station. Leura is tiny but has glamorous shops, lovely spas and excellent cafes.

Australian Bush Flower Essences

Go to Leura’s famous Scent From Heaven for some wonderful alternative treatments, and Australian mind-body-spirit experiences (try Bush Flower Essences here.) For more information visit www.scentfromheaven.com.au. When we visited they offered a one-hour Shiatsu for around $75. If you’re feeling spooky, ask about Crystal Healing, Astrology and Tarot. For more information on Australian Bush Flower Essences (the down-under version of Bach remedies) visit www.ausflowers.com.au.

Luxury shopping

Leura is a one-street town, basically consisting of The Mall (just as Katoomba consists of Katoomba Street.) Find nighties, soap, candles, bed linen and more at Maison Montage. They have Australian, Italian and French brands ranging from Diptyque to Tosca.

Moontree is a candle superstore, also on The Mall. They have the accessories (flowers, shells) and the candles themselves in dozens of brands, scents, colours and sizes – and prices. You can pick up a beautiful travel candle for your hotel room here.

Try Circus for designer Australian fashion, shoes and bags and if you want famous Australian R.M. Williams leather riding boots go to Leura Mall Outback Clothing.

Eating out in Leura

There are several good cafes in Leura for breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you want to take someone out for dinner try the fabulous, famous Silk’s Brasserie at 128 The Mall. Visit silksleura.com.

If you’re feeling seriously self-indulgent take a taxi to Solitary, which has been named one of the top five eating destinations in Australia. Grab a taxi to 90 Cliff Drive, Leura Falls . The website is www.solitary.com.

Pub lunch in Blackheath

For a brilliant pub lunch (when we visited, there were huge $10 home-made pies with pastry teddy-bears on top), take a train or taxi to Blackheath, and park yourself at Gardner’s Inn. The website is www.gardnersinn.com.au. We’re talking big leather Chesterfield sofas, good wine, and log fires – it’s very English, very comfortable, and very good value.

Hugh Grant was here…

Consider visiting artist Norman Lindsay’s house while you’re in The Blue Mountains. It’s at 14 Norman Lindsay Crescent, Faulconbridge, within easy train or taxi access. The legendary Norman Lindsay, a famously good painter of cats and nude nymphs, was the subject of a film called Sirens starring Elle Macpherson and Hugh Grant. His old artist’s studio is set up just the way he left it, complete with easel and dried-up oil paint, and there’s a cafe and shop. Visit www.hermes.net/au/nlg.

Fast Facts

Official Blue Mountains website – www.bluemountains.org.au