Fremantle once served as the first sight of Australian soil for many of the ten-pound Pom migrant generation. Today, ‘Freo’ has managed to retain its historical charm while becoming an eclectic focal point for chilled-out culture, and a converging place for WA’s arty folk.

Trains run from Perth every 15 minutes (around $3.40 one way). Alternatively, come by ferry from Perth, and enjoy the sights of the Swan River as you cruise to Fremantle’s E Street jetty, near the E Shed markets. South Terrace, the markets and many of the shops and activities are in walking distance of the station, or, for a different way of getting around town, hire a wacky Bug Scooter from Scoot Freo (The Weighbridge, 2 Phillimore St,  08…). You can also catch a tram 08 9433 6674  www.fremantletrams.com, which will give you a guided tour and has convenient hop on/hop off points at major attractions.

Many people choose to stay in Perth, only thirty minutes away by train and with more accommodation options. The most renowned place to stay in Fremantle is the Old Esplanade Hotel, where standard rooms begin at around $235 (check their website at www.esplanadehotelfremantle.com.au or last-minute search engines for the best deals). Fothergills, providing old-world charm in listed buildings, has rooms looking across the town towards the ocean, with prices starting from $160 www.babs.com.au/fothergills/.

For a new twist on shopping, the main Fremantle markets www.fremantlemarkets.com.au – open Friday to Sunday, at the corner of South Terrace and Henderson Streets, are definitely the pick – stalls jam-packed with everything you could possibly imagine from fresh juices and one-off clothes, to tarot readings and handmade jewellery. The Village Art Market in King’s Square www.villageartmarket.com opens on Thursdays and Fridays from September to April – with live music from local bands, free workshops for tai chi and drumming, and an array of local produce for sale. Along South Terrace you’ll also find plenty of one-off galleries, and funky clothes shops such as Lemon, Lemon and Marmalade. Most shops are open seven days a week.

Fancy a treat?

Indulge yourself at the Fremantle chocolate factory (312–314 South Terrace, South Perth), which specialises in truffles and pralines as well as an array of confectionery.

Rather get pampered?

Keturah Day Spa, 22 Queen St, tel: 08 9430 6800, www.keturah.com.au is just the place – they offer a full range of beauty treatments including manicures, pedicures, mineral Jacuzzis, and a variety of facials, spa treatments and massages.

Freo is crammed with great places to dine – and South Terrace is also known as ‘Cappuccino Strip’ – but here are a few ideas to whet your appetite. For a drink try the lovely Norfolk Hotel, opposite the markets, which serves a variety of regional wines as well as the usual fare and has a great courtyard atmosphere. Or head over to the Little Creatures brewery at Fishing Boat Harbour to sample some of WA’s finest locally brewed beers. For food go to Sandrinos (95 Market St) – sumptuous Italian food, with signature dishes including chilli mussels and woodfired pizzas (Entree: around $4.50–$13; Mains: approximately $11–$26; Dessert: around $6); here you can have a full meal or just coffee and cake, and if you’re lucky you can nab a seat on their terrace and watch the world go by. If you want a treat, you really can’t beat The Red Herring www.redherring.com.au, a top WA restaurant providing gourmet fare. The restaurant sits right out on the river – if you’re lucky a dolphin or two will cruise by as you dine. Try their grilled fresh snapper, with seared gnocchi, zucchini, gremolata and capsicum oil (around $35).

For entertainment, check out the music and performance events and exhibitions going on at Fremantle Arts Centre www.fac.org.au; or watch a movie in the unique Art Deco picture house ‘Luna on SX’ www.lunapalace.com.au. Freo also has a range of festivals going on throughout the year go to www.freofocus.com and this small city’s vibrancy continues well into the night. The Norfolk Hotel, mentioned above, and the Sail & Anchor opposite the market are two popular evening drinking spots. Then you can strap on your dancing shoes, and the Metropolis nightclub www.metropolisfremantle.com.au will keep the party going until dawn.

Sara Foster