Yoga is a part of daily life in Byron Bay. This bustling coastal town on the Tweed Coast of Northern New South Wales is a hippie haven from way back. It’s also a Mecca for backpackers and holidaymakers seeking the sun, surf and the spiritual. Kris McIntyre gives you the low down on where to stay, where to eat and play, and most importantly, where to bend and stretch and reach for the stars.

The relaxed bohemian lifestyle that Byron Bay is renowned for is a little more commercial these days, but all the things that make Byron special are still ripe for the picking – an amazing year-round climate, a lush rolling hinterland that ambles down to beautiful beaches, eccentric characters and wonderful healers including some of the best yoga teachers in Australia. With names like Jessie Chapman, John Ogilvie, Louisa Sear, Dena Kinsburgh, Lance Schuler and Liz Costigan calling Byron Bay home, it is no wonder that visitors flock here in the hundreds year after year to hang out and learn yoga. Whether you are looking for a cheap holiday with a bit of yoga thrown in to a luxury health retreat or the chance to do a teacher training program whilst living in a community of like-minded people, Byron has something to offer. In fact with a smorgasbord of daily yoga classes, year-round retreats and highly regarded teacher training across a range of styles and traditions, yogis are spoilt for choice here.

STAY
For luxury digs, head into the lush hinterland about 20 minutes outside town for Olivia Newton-John’s Gaia Retreat & Spa (933 Fernleigh Road, Brooklet. T: 02 6687 1216) which offers programs from $912.50 per person (twin share) for two nights including all meals, a one-hour massage, daily yoga and leisure activities. Closer to town and the beach, the Byron at Byron (77 – 97 Broken Head Road, Phone:  1300 554 362 ) offers 2 night packages from $490 per person (twin share) including breakfast, one hour spa treatment, lunch or dinner one day and daily yoga. Belongil Beach House (25 Childe Street. T: 02 66 857868) offers relaxed communal beachside living just a ‘frisbee throw’ from the beach and a 10 minute stroll to the township. Accommodation ranges from shared rooms to studios and cottages from $40 per night. There’s also a courtesy bus to Byron, a communal kitchen, garden café, free boogie boards and massage on offer. At the Arts Factory Backpackers Lodge (Skinners Shoot Rd. 02 66857709) the vibe is hippie-hippie shake. The range of ‘funky abodes’ include Teepees and Island Bungalows starting at $18 per day (camping) to $34 (shared dorm) or $80 per day in a private room. Onsite facilities include the Buddha Bar Restaurant, Byron Lounge Cinema, Buddha Gardens Day Spa, communal kitchen, recording studio and daily yoga classes.

LEARN
For the novice practitioner, a visit to Byron Bay is a gentle introduction into a healthy yogic lifestyle. you’ll find a yoga class within a side stretch of just about anywhere. Step up a notch and there’s a full calendar of yoga retreats ranging from weekend getaways with Liz Costigan to week-long programs like Jessie Chapman’s Radiance Retreats. Jessie’s popular retreats incorporate daily yoga classes (Hatha/ Vinyassa) with basic but comfortable accommodation, nurturing food, massage treatments and a fun program of activities including dance, bush and beach walks, nutrition talks, cooking demonstrations and meditation. At the premium end of the spectrum Jessie also runs luxury retreats at Gaia Retreat and Spa. Gaia also offers tailored health, fitness and detox programs incorporating daily yoga in a beautiful setting in the Byron Hinterland – perfect for a mini-break with friends or a mother-daughter retreat. Aspiring yoga teachers also have the chance to immerse in a yogic lifestyle with intensive teacher training programs ranging from a four weeks to a year. The most popular include John Ogilvie’s Byron Bay Yoga Centre (combining Iyengar, Asthanga, Sivananda and Satyananda) and Lance Schuler’s Inspya (Hatha) training, both of which include residential intensives throughout the year.

Radiance Retreats with Jessie Chapman range from 4-7 nights starting at $1497 (twin share) in basic accommodation to $2335 at Gaia Retreat & Spa. Dena Kingsberg’s Yoga Shala (11 Black Butt Street) offers Asthanga Mysore classes. Bookings are required and check dates for Dena’s travel schedule. www.dena.net.au  Liz Costigan’s Byron Iyengar Yoga Lounge (1a Banksia Drive) offers daily classes (Tuesday-Sunday), 5-night retreats from $1400 or ‘choose your own date’ retreats from $350 for two nights. The centre also runs teacher training with Glenn Ceresoli on six weekends across the year for $4,040. Inspya runs 4-6 week Hatha Teacher Training programs for levels 1-4 with Lance Schuler from $5,000. Inspya also run 10-day raw food retreats with onsite accommodation and camping. www.inspyayoga.com. Byron Yoga Centre (6 Byron Street) offers daily yoga classes, 7-day retreats from $1250 and Teacher Training modules from 12-day intensives for $2500 with ashram style accommodation from $143 per week. www.byronyoga.com. Red Tent Yoga (5/102 Centenial Circuit) offers yoga classes, workshops and ‘Wise Women Circles’ just for the gals and kids. Or bring your inner surf goddess and yogini together at one of Samudra’s surf and yoga retreats.

EAT
With healthy cafes that serve up organic produce, vegan meals and a ‘LSD’  (Soy Dandelion Latte) without a raised eyebrow, Byron Bay is a rare treat for the vegetarian eater. Cafe One One One (1/111 Jonson Street)  dishes up hearty regional produce with a European bent. The infamous Fins Restaurant has relocated to Salt Village near Kingscliff, but you can enjoy great gourmet fish and chips at Fish Mongers (Bay Lane, behind the Beach Hotel) If you’ve got cash to burn, there’s Olivo (34 Johnson Street. Phone: 6685 7950), Dish (Cnr Jonson & Marvel Streets Phone: 6685 7320) or Rae’s on Wategoes (Marine Parade, Wategos Beach, phone: 6685 5366). For the best coffee in town try Bay Leaf (8/87 Jonson Street) or Mokha on Lawson (Feros Arcade Shop 2/ Lawson Street). If you are staying in town for a while, you can shop for fresh organic produce and supplies at Santos and the Fundamental Food Store, nicknamed ‘Fundies’ by the locals. Or meet the local farmers at the Byron Farmer’s Markets held every Thursday between 8am-11am in Butler Street Reserve.

DRINK
Despite its reputation as a bit of a party town, Byron’s nightlife is surprisingly limited but there are a few quirky local haunts and pubs. The beer garden at The Beach Hotel (Bay Street) is Byron’s most popular watering hole with live music most nights and Sunday afternoons. ‘The Rails’ Railway Hotel (Jonson Street) and the rowdy Great Northern Hotel (Byron Bay Street) both come to life with live music gigs and a local crowd. Put your dancing shoes on and disco with the hot young things at La La Land (Lawson Street) or Cocomangas (Jonson Street).

PAMPER
For the best pampering experiences head out of town to Gaia Retreat & Spa where you can have a spa treatment and lunch or Kiva Spa (1 McGooghans Lane, Mullumbimby. 02 6684 4811). Entry to Kiva’s bathhouse is $20 with treatments from only $45 for a half-hour massage. Shaman River Rain calls Byron Bay home and offers mobile massage services when he’s not traveling the globe. If you are lucky to catch him you’ll enjoy one of the best massage treatments you’ll ever have.  Phone: 0408 192 769.

SHOP
Shopaholics will find everything from hippie couture to surf wear, street fashion and oodles of homewares. The best way to approach shopping is to head to Jonson Street and wander. On a drizzly day head to the esoteric Abraxas Bookshop (13 Lawson Street) or the Medicine Wheel (1/84 Jonson Street) for a tarot reading and classic Byron spiritual bits and bobs. The Byron craft and produce markets are held on the first Sunday of the month in Butler Street Reserve.

EXPLORE
Off the mat, take up surfing, scuba diving, drumming, Tantra, temple dancing or any of the myriads of distractions that are offered in abundance to entertain your inner soul seeker. A sunrise walk to Cape Byron Headland and Lighthouse is a must. Further afield, climb Mount Warning, visit Minyon Falls and explore the Hinterland and surrounding towns including Mullumbimby (‘Mullum”), Lennox Heads, Brunswick Heads and Bangalow. For tips on local markets, events and gigs, pick up the local newspaper, The Echo.

GETTING THERE & AROUND
Byron Bay is about 2½ hours drive south of Brisbane. Fly to Ballina or the Gold Coast/ Coolangatta. Check www.webject.com.au for the best deals. Xcede Airport Shuttle service offers transfers to Byron Bay for the 50 minute trip from Ballina ($18 each way) and Gold Coast ($40 each way). Phone 1300 233 113 or book online. (Tip: Queensland and NSW have different time zones in summer so remember to check daylight saving times when you cross the border). Blanch’s Buses run regular, but not especially extensive, local services. Check www.blanchs.com.au for timetable information. Your best bet is to hire a bike. Byron Bay Surf and Bike Hire (1/31 Lawson Street. (02) 6680 7066) rent a range of bikes from $20 per day or you can buy a used bike from as little as $150.

Andreina Cordani tries seafood out of a loch and avoids the hordes.

cc. Flickr.com / mike138

About two hours’ drive away from Glasgow, is the virtually uninhabited valley of Glencoe, where mountains soar into the sky as spring water pours down their sides. Deer roam the pastures, and you can even see the occasional eagle. For a quick weekend escape, there’s nothing better, and if you want to stay longer, there’s plenty more to discover. Travel in spring or Autumn and you’re taking a risk with the weather, but you’ll be avoiding the tourist hordes – and let’s face it, when it come to Scotland, you’re always taking a risk with the weather.

This is our must-list for the Glencoe area…

Walk the Hidden Valley
In previous centuries the Hidden Valley was used as a hideout for sheep rustlers or quarrelling clansmen, but now it’s one of the most popular walks in the area. Walk, clamber and occasionally bum-slide along the two-mile path through a beautiful forest, crossing a sparkling burn which looks clear enough to drink (although don’t!) until the valley finally opens out in front of you. Leave mid-morning and you’ll get there in time for lunch in the valley, before heading back.

Visit the Clachaig Inn
Want to drink whisky, listen to live music, chat up outdoorsy Scottish men and carouse until the early hours? The Clachaig is for you. It’s the best place to party for miles around and if you’ve been to the Hidden Valley that morning you’ll see all the people you met along the way in the bar that night. The Clachaig also offers simple but very welcome accommodation including deliciously hot showers. The food is simple and hearty, perfect after a hard day’s walking and there’s even a drying room for your soaking-wet walking gear. (clachaig.com)

Sandwiches at Crafts and Things
OK, when it comes to freshly-made lunches you’re not exactly spoilt for choice. It’s Crafts & Things or… well, Crafts & Things. Luckily their rolls and cakes are excellent, they make packed lunches to go or you can eat in, surrounded by books and various crafty-crystally type gifts.

Seafood feasts
If there’s one problem with Glencoe it’s that there aren’t enough good places to eat. Local eateries vary from the tartan-tablecloth-mixed-grill variety to the beautifully decorated places which garnish everything with ‘jus’ and charge a fortune. One exception is the Lochleven Seafood Cafe, which serves deliciously fresh, simple fish dishes straight from the loch.

Land Rover safari
The National Trust at Glencoe runs ‘safaris’ around its land from April to October. Incredibly enthusiastic guides drive you around, teach you to spot wild deer on the mountainside and give you a real insight into the landscape around you.

Get paddling
See nearby Loch Linnhe from different point of view by booking a kayaking session (we went with Rockhopper) Paddling silently along the flat water, we saw a seal pop its head out of the water and follow us. A perfect moment – and it’s great for the biceps, too. www.rockhopperscotland.co.uk

Photo Attribution: http://www.flickr.com/photos/72486075@N00/ / CC BY-ND 2.0

Kris McIntyre has an alternative kind of safari for you – via stunning spas and meditation wells.

The idea of travelling to Southern Africa usually conjures up romantic notions of wildlife safaris and exotic adventure. But if you are looking for a less traditional route to explore this vast and exciting continent, we’ve discovered our own ‘Big Five*’ for the body and soul … with a distinctly African twist.

Earth Travel (South Africa)
Earth Travel offers unforgettable travel adventures around the world including bike tours through some of South Africa’s most beautiful and wild places including Kruger National Park, Cape Town and the Wild Coast. With tours ranging from 3-14 days, this is a sometimes challenging but enjoyable way to get fit, even if you’re not to begin with. The average day involves two to six hours of cycling, but there’s a back-up team if you want to hoist your bike, take it easy and enjoy the scenery. Earth Travel also offers self-drive and customised tours through Southern Africa including wildlife safaris and sporting holidays.
What to bring: Your own biking gear if you have it – otherwise you can hire everything you need from Earth Travel, a basic level of fitness and a willing, challenging spirit.
Cost: from R3000 per person for set tours. Cost includes all accommodation and meals, Earth Travel guide and backup team. Customised tours are priced on individual requirements.
Bookings: www.earthtravel.co.za or email xavier@earthtravel.co.za

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Retreat (Western Cape, South Africa)

© BushmansKloof.co.za

Recognised as one of the world’s best hotels, this is a wilderness experience offering African-style luxury with soul. The Reserve is part of a World Heritage site located in the Cederberg Mountains, 3-4 hours drive from Cape Town, dedicated to restoring indigenous wildlife and flora and protecting 130 San Bushman rock art sites. With just 16 rooms, the Lodge is private and intimate, but you also get to mingle with other guests and the very knowledgeable rangers. With gourmet cuisine, the heavenly Gingko day spa and a beautiful setting this is the perfect place to rest, heal and pamper yourself. On the daily nature drives you can expect to see Cape Mountain Zebra, Eland, Bontebok and more than 150 bird species. Relax by the pool or with a stroll through the medicinal gardens, or get physical with a host of outdoor activities including hiking, rock-climbing, mountain biking, archery, fly-fishing and canoeing.
What to bring: A sense of adventure, a good pair of walking shoes and someone who deserves to be seduced by the surroundings.
Cost: From R1750 per person (twin share) for a standard room (low season). Rates are per person per night including all meals, guided tours and activities (excluding spa treatments).
Bookings: Phone +27(21)685 2598 or www.bushmanskloof.co.za

Buddhist Retreat Centre (Ixopo, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa)
The Buddhist Retreat Centre (BRC) offers a beautiful place to learn about Buddhist philosophy, psychology, meditation, arts and culture. Set amongst tranquil Zen gardens and indigenous bush, the BRC overlooks one of the great valleys of the Umkomaas river system just 90-minutes drive from Durban. The 125-hectare estate has also received National Heritage status by former President Nelson Mandela in recognition of its work in protecting the flora and fauna of the area. The BRC runs a full program of educational retreats ranging from Buddhist meditation practices to yoga, Tai Chi and Chi Kung, to drumming workshops, painting workshops, couples and family retreats. You can join a hosted retreat or simply stay and enjoy a self-guided retreat with access to BRC staff for advise on Buddhist teachings and meditation. Make sure you buy a copy of their ’Quiet Food’ cookbook which holds the secret to the infamous BRC fare.
What to bring: The BRC recommends bringing casual comfortable clothes, a warm waterproof jacket, torch, walking shoes and umbrella.
Cost: From R280-R720 per person, per day depending on what style of accommodation you choose. Costs include accommodation and meals. Buddhist tradition does not charge for teachings so it is also good karma to donate a voluntary ‘dana’ to the teachers or the Centre.
Bookings: Phone +27 (39) 8341 863 or www.brcixopo.co.za

Temenos Country Retreat (McGregor, Western Cape, South Africa)
Just over two hours drive from Cape Town, Temenos is a great spot for a romantic escape, time out or a spiritual holiday. The Retreat has 13 fully equipped self-contained cottages set within beautiful gardens and contemplative spaces. The vibe is Zen meets rustic Byzantine. Facilities include a meditation well, library, chapel, lap swimming pool, Tebaldi’s restaurant and massage treatment rooms. Outside the front gate lies the quaint village of McGregor where you find art classes, health shops, cafes and local craft galleries. There is a full calendar of events throughout the year including Wellness Weeks and silent retreats.
What to bring: If you don’t want to leave your cottage then bring everything from tea bags to tofu – otherwise, there’s Café Temenos, and the town of McGregor has some good eating spots.
Costs: From R460 per person per night (accommodation only). Three-day Wellness Retreats start at R2700 per person including accommodation, meals, morning walks, yoga sessions, two body therapies and daily meditation.
Bookings: Phone + 27 (23) 6251 871 or www.temenos.org.za

Yoga Safari (Botswana, Southern Africa)
Spiritual meets safari. Yoga Safari offers unique week-long retreats combining daily yoga and meditation with an African wildlife adventure including the chance to see the ‘big five*’. With the reassurance of an experienced guide, the safari takes you through the Central Kalahari to the Moremi Game Reserve where you’ll stay in a traditional bush-safari camp with walk-in canvas dome tents, camp beds complete with mattresses, sheets, duvet, pillow and towels, warm showers and a fire to sit around and enjoy ‘sundowners’ (pre-dinner drinks). Safari locations change throughout the year according to the season and movement of the game. You don’t have to be an experienced yogi to come along, but a basic level of fitness is recommended.
What to bring: There’s a full packing list on the Yoga Safari website.
Cost: The 8-day/ 7-night retreats are US$3499 per person sharing including all meals, yoga and game drives.
Bookings: For upcoming dates and bookings phone +267 7140 0108 or visit www.yogasafari.com

FAST FACTS & TIPS:
• * The ‘Big Five’ is a term coined by big-game hunters and refers to the five most difficult animals in Africa to hunt on foot. The term is still used on wildlife safaris referring to the lion, elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros and leopard.
• The official tourist website for South Africa is http://www.southafrica.net/
• For cheap airfares, hotel bookings and car hire in Africa visit www.kulula.com

Noel Fielding and Julian Barratt (The Mighty Boosh) are said to have drunk at The Warren House Inn at Dartmoor, but also to have been haunted by its ghost. You’ll want to visit for the local ales or local walks. It’s a big, blokey, beautiful bar. Visit warrenhouseinn.

If you can’t do gluten, you can still do high tea – get to Barnes Bridge rail station or take the 209 bus to Orange Pekoe at 3 White Hart Lane. The website is orangepekoeteas. It won the Time Out 2008 Best Tearoom award and caters for the wheat-free very nicely. We also like Nicole’s, which is fashionista Nicole Farhi’s downstairs cafe. Gluten free chocolate cake and macaroons – not bad. Shop afterwards! The website is www.nicolefarhi.com. The queen of gluten-free is The Lanesborough, which is wildly expensive and luxurious. Book at least a day before.  Visit lanesborough.

There is a set classic dim sum lunch for well under ten pounds at Pearl Liang if you care to hop on the train to Paddington or order a cab to 8 Sheldon Square W2. London Chinese love it – always a good sign. Scallop dumplings or mango pudding, anyone? Visit pearlliang.

Every image you have in your mind of Northern Scotland is probably true. I experienced it all last summer, when I stayed with a schoolfriend in Ineverness: kilts, bagpipes, haggis and grouse shoots.

I was imagining luxury in the extreme that weekend, as I was staying in a cottage owned by Mohamed Al Fayed. Oh, how wrong I was. The cottage itself was comfortable enough, but everything else was severe. Cold swims were just one of the features on the menu.

The minute I arrived in Inverness I was taken to a reeling (Scottish dancing) practice. There were about fifty people of all ages in the hall but only three of us who didn’t know how to reel, and it was immediately obvious.

As everyone else paired off into couples I found myself without a partner; not only did I not know how to reel, I didn’t know anyone else in the room. I then had twenty grandmas descending on me, all trying to find me a willing partner who would teach me

how to dance. Of course I ended up with the five foot thirteen-year-old.

Having had my right foot trodden ad absurdum, I was glad when the next reel began and I found myself being thrown about by a 6′5″ Caledonian, fully kilted-out with his sporran (pouch) and sgian dubh (funny little knife worn in the top of the sock).

Reeling with him was much easier as he just whirled me about – no thinking on my part was involved.

The names of the dances are great – The Duke of Perth, The Reel of the 51^st and Strip the Willow. I think my favourite had to be The Dashing White Sergeant, though. You get two boys for that one!

I thought the reeling had been terrifying enough, but the next day I was dumped with ten of my friends to swim in a freezing cold river. In Inverness this is considered a holiday trea, but even the salmon were trying to jump out, the water was so cold.

This was followed by a grouse shoot. I can’t shoot so I just walked along with the party. I had no idea what I had let myself in for. All the men were of course in kilts. I was starting to realise by now that the kilt is in fact the standard item of clothing for men in Inverness. We were expected to walk all the way up the grouse moor, and all the way back down.

I only made it one way – give up your yoga or your daily jog – walking up a hill of heather is far better exercise. Because I couldn’t shoot I was one of the beaters. We were accompanied by six family dogs. Apparently they’d been bred for this sport but it wasn’t apparent to me. As far as I could tell my job as beater was to be yelled at by anyone holding a gun/wearing a kilt.

After three hours of watching the 30 guns we managed to kill a grand total of three grouse. Apparently that’s normal. Applaudable in fact.

After all this, we were expected to reel again. The energy of the Scots is remarkable -. I was ready for nice lie-down. As I began to pick up the steps of the dances, though, I began to appreciate being swung around by strapping young men with bare knees.

Things were looking up. After a week of this I started to think maybe Inverness wasn’t so bad after all. Despite being 5° colder than the rest of the UK and lacking modern comforts, there are a lot of gorgeous boys up there who knew how to look good in a skirt.